as far as i can tell this is entirely a fuel related issue. GSLSE with everything from an FC. N326 ecu, wiring harness, maf etc.

The pump is flowing the right direction, and its on its own circuit. I was having no fuel at all, test by plugging the plugs and them being completely dry after much cranking.

Starts and runs on ether. Which makes i have spark and the CAS is working.

moved a ground on the wiring harness and now it kinda tries to start on occasion, but usually just dies immediately. Throttle doesnt seem to help keep it alive. Injectors seem to be firing now though confirmed by switch action when viewing ohm meter.

TPS is adjusted to 1000 ohm. The wires are correct to each injector. Have 12v at each injector.

all emissions deleted.

running out of ideas.

 

Will it start better if you prime the fuel system before cranking vs if you try it dry?
Also, do you have the 'start' signal wired from the ignition switch to the ecu?

Check that the fuel feed/return lines are correct at the engine.

You can also disconnect one primary injector and spin the CAS. Listen for the click. Then try the other one. Alternatively, you can briefly ground out the injector signal wire at the ecu.

The injector may just be full of crud from sitting or bad fuel.

Also, double check the timing because the stock ecu does funny stuff right at startup.

 

EDIT: Answered my own question.

 

yes the BL on FEM-03 is connected to the circuit opening relay.

yup the flow direction is correct.

im considering taking the injectors and doing the visible spray test per ReTED.

very possible. The starting has got SLIGHTLY better so maybe the fuel is cleaning through and helping?

timing was reset.

 

Does the car start and die w/o the help of starter fluid? The ECU pins related to the primary injectors should both have 12 volts w/key to on. This helps to determine if the plugs are secured to the injectors properly.

 

yea they have power all the way through.

starts and dies on its own fuel now.

 

The wires for the injectors at the ECU are the trigger signals and would only have 12 volts w/key to on and then it would drop as the car is started and running. Additionally, are you using low impedance injectors or high impedance injectors as it makes a difference depending on which hareness is being used.

 

tested with key on, not running. 12v from browns, going through to the greens (Lg / LgB) at the ecu.

injectors are low impedance with resistor block in harness.

 

How are you "injecting ether" in the intake?
Is your AFM plugged in?(it will start and die if it is NOT plugged in)

 

its plugged in.

and i spray in on the filter.