Twin scroll solenoid... Is it ok to remove?
#26
Ah! No wonder my cold starts suck now. Tomorrow I will post some pictures of the work that was done so you get an idea of what was done.
I have not smog check my car yet. I am buying a Magnaflow Catalytic Convertor, and will have the oxygen sensor fixed before I smog it.
Yep Cali is very **** on emissions, helmet and fire arms laws. And that's another thread in itself ha ha ha.
I have not smog check my car yet. I am buying a Magnaflow Catalytic Convertor, and will have the oxygen sensor fixed before I smog it.
Yep Cali is very **** on emissions, helmet and fire arms laws. And that's another thread in itself ha ha ha.
#27
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Ah! No wonder my cold starts suck now. Tomorrow I will post some pictures of the work that was done so you get an idea of what was done.
I have not smog check my car yet. I am buying a Magnaflow Catalytic Convertor, and will have the oxygen sensor fixed before I smog it.
Yep Cali is very **** on emissions, helmet and fire arms laws. And that's another thread in itself ha ha ha.
I have not smog check my car yet. I am buying a Magnaflow Catalytic Convertor, and will have the oxygen sensor fixed before I smog it.
Yep Cali is very **** on emissions, helmet and fire arms laws. And that's another thread in itself ha ha ha.
I wouldn't worry about it. I disabled mine because I don't want my motor to rev to 3k on cold start up. Mine idles at 900 when cold.
I'm starting to wonder if they forgot to put on the acuator rod.
#29
Top Down, Boost Up
iTrader: (7)
What gear are you in when you're testing how quickly boost builds? If you're cruising in 5th on the freeway and you mash the throttle at say 2500 RPM, boost should start to build instantly. You should see stock boost (6 psi) by about 3000 RPM. But if you're testing in 1st gear, the reduced load will not allow the turbo to spool as quickly.
Another thing to consider is if you're using a bleeder-type manual boost controller it will actually hurt spool-up because it bypasses some of the pressurized air the WG actuator would see.
Another thing to consider is if you're using a bleeder-type manual boost controller it will actually hurt spool-up because it bypasses some of the pressurized air the WG actuator would see.
#30
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (6)
Engines are much more prone to detonation while “lugging” when at high loads and low RPMs. This is mostly due to the extended burn times at low rpms and usually a motor will not detonate under the exact same conditions, but with a higher RPM.
#32
What gear are you in when you're testing how quickly boost builds? If you're cruising in 5th on the freeway and you mash the throttle at say 2500 RPM, boost should start to build instantly. You should see stock boost (6 psi) by about 3000 RPM. But if you're testing in 1st gear, the reduced load will not allow the turbo to spool as quickly.
Another thing to consider is if you're using a bleeder-type manual boost controller it will actually hurt spool-up because it bypasses some of the pressurized air the WG actuator would see.
Another thing to consider is if you're using a bleeder-type manual boost controller it will actually hurt spool-up because it bypasses some of the pressurized air the WG actuator would see.
I'm not using a boost controller, everything is stock on the ecu and management side. The only upgrades I have made are the Racing Beat 2.5" Down Pipe, and catless exhaust system. To be honest, it would help if I had a boost gauge to see how the turbocharger is boosting. However I do know that the engine is not boosting like it should by the seat of my pants.
#34
Yessir . For the life of me Idk what the problem could be, I am thinking once I get a boost gauge, or hook up a boost gauge I will be able to see how it is boosting.
On the other hand. I am thinking since I have the na transmission and differential the turbocharger could be boosting according to the na gear ratio?? But maybe not because the engine is not boosting hard at all. The engine should at least still boost.
On the other hand. I am thinking since I have the na transmission and differential the turbocharger could be boosting according to the na gear ratio?? But maybe not because the engine is not boosting hard at all. The engine should at least still boost.
#35
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Yessir . For the life of me Idk what the problem could be, I am thinking once I get a boost gauge, or hook up a boost gauge I will be able to see how it is boosting.
On the other hand. I am thinking since I have the na transmission and differential the turbocharger could be boosting according to the na gear ratio?? But maybe not because the engine is not boosting hard at all. The engine should at least still boost.
On the other hand. I am thinking since I have the na transmission and differential the turbocharger could be boosting according to the na gear ratio?? But maybe not because the engine is not boosting hard at all. The engine should at least still boost.
That's frickin weird.
You sure you don't have a cracked IC hose ?
Checked the actuator if it's connected?? Wastegate flap door/ Not stuck open ?
#36
I will double check the IC hoses and the actuator rod. The waste gate flap door, I will look into at a later time. If the problem is not fixed by looking to the easier possibilities, then for sure I will take my car to another shop and have them look into.
Thanks
Thanks
#37
Bye George I think I got it!!
What gear are you in when you're testing how quickly boost builds? If you're cruising in 5th on the freeway and you mash the throttle at say 2500 RPM, boost should start to build instantly. You should see stock boost (6 psi) by about 3000 RPM. But if you're testing in 1st gear, the reduced load will not allow the turbo to spool as quickly.
Another thing to consider is if you're using a bleeder-type manual boost controller it will actually hurt spool-up because it bypasses some of the pressurized air the WG actuator would see.
Another thing to consider is if you're using a bleeder-type manual boost controller it will actually hurt spool-up because it bypasses some of the pressurized air the WG actuator would see.
Also my boost is coming on stronger now at 2500-2700rpm. I need a boost gauge to see how well the engine is boosting, then I will know for sure how well the engine is boosting But so far since the idle adjustment I feel the boost now at the bottom end.
Thank you for advise fellas.
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risingsunroof82
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