Ah! No wonder my cold starts suck now. Tomorrow I will post some pictures of the work that was done so you get an idea of what was done.

I have not smog check my car yet. I am buying a Magnaflow Catalytic Convertor, and will have the oxygen sensor fixed before I smog it.

Yep Cali is very **** on emissions, helmet and fire arms laws. And that's another thread in itself ha ha ha.

 

I wouldn't worry about it. I disabled mine because I don't want my motor to rev to 3k on cold start up. Mine idles at 900 when cold.

I'm starting to wonder if they forgot to put on the acuator rod.

 

I'll check the actuator rod this week tomorrow.

 

What gear are you in when you're testing how quickly boost builds? If you're cruising in 5th on the freeway and you mash the throttle at say 2500 RPM, boost should start to build instantly. You should see stock boost (6 psi) by about 3000 RPM. But if you're testing in 1st gear, the reduced load will not allow the turbo to spool as quickly.

Another thing to consider is if you're using a bleeder-type manual boost controller it will actually hurt spool-up because it bypasses some of the pressurized air the WG actuator would see.

 

I would suggest against doing this, but it is an example... but don't stuff it in 5th and punch it at 2500rpm, could possibly introduce knock...

 

In stock or mostly stock form, I don't think so. 6 psi on the stock timing and fuel maps should not be any problem. Load based timing.

 

I test in 1st gear at standing starts and there is turbo lag up until 3k rpm. On rolling 1st gear pulls it's the same, sometimes up to 3500k rpm. While driving in any other gear boost is not present until 3-3500k rpm. At freeway speeds it pretty much feels like I'm driving n/a even when I'm boosting. Sometimes I feel the boost, other times is fades away as soon as it hits.

I'm not using a boost controller, everything is stock on the ecu and management side. The only upgrades I have made are the Racing Beat 2.5" Down Pipe, and catless exhaust system. To be honest, it would help if I had a boost gauge to see how the turbocharger is boosting. However I do know that the engine is not boosting like it should by the seat of my pants.

 

You've attached everything and still having same problem ???

 

Yessir . For the life of me Idk what the problem could be, I am thinking once I get a boost gauge, or hook up a boost gauge I will be able to see how it is boosting.

On the other hand. I am thinking since I have the na transmission and differential the turbocharger could be boosting according to the na gear ratio?? But maybe not because the engine is not boosting hard at all. The engine should at least still boost.

 

That's frickin weird.
You sure you don't have a cracked IC hose ?
Checked the actuator if it's connected?? Wastegate flap door/ Not stuck open ?

 

I will double check the IC hoses and the actuator rod. The waste gate flap door, I will look into at a later time. If the problem is not fixed by looking to the easier possibilities, then for sure I will take my car to another shop and have them look into.

Thanks

 

I finally adjusted my idle at the BAC today I turned the idle screw counter clock wise abut 4 turns and idle came up to 800rpm. Now my engine idles steady like it did before I took my car to the shop for repairs and the engine no longer stalls, and it starts on hot starts now.

Also my boost is coming on stronger now at 2500-2700rpm. I need a boost gauge to see how well the engine is boosting, then I will know for sure how well the engine is boosting But so far since the idle adjustment I feel the boost now at the bottom end.

Thank you for advise fellas.