so i just bought an 87 n/a with 77k with a rebuild engine last summer from rotary resurrection in virginia. After the engine was rebuilt, he started to have fuel issues, starting with a leaky fuel tank, bad pumps, leaky injecters (all new).



So the car will start, and it will run fine until you let it idle for more than ten minutes and then it starts to flood. it flooded when i first purchased the car, and i deflooded it and was able to drive down the road to the nearest auto part store to buy new spark plugs (which they havent been changed since the first owner). They didnt have the plugs at the first store and the car did not start when i went to leave. I tried to deflood it in the parking lot, but it didnt work this time. Went to buy new leading plugs(all they had at the time) and that did not fix the problem either.


So im not sure what to do, the car is now 200+ miles away from me right now. and i am having it towed back to delaware. He has a custom fuel cut switch, and a electronic 5th/6th port opener.


the only things i can think of to check is:
pulling the fuel line, to check for fuel going in.
check the intake to see if the butterflies are opening.
or to find a way to see if the sparkplugs are getting a spark.

p.s. if the plugs have a bunch of black stuff on it, its bad. Correct??

 

Why is it called "He" ?

black stuff on plugs=bad.

 

i meant "she" since its being a b!tch.

and im guessing the black stuff is carbon build up or pre-mixing with too much oil??

 

Check:

1. trouble codes
2. BAC valve
3. water thermo sensor
4. AFM
5. intake air temp sensor
6. fuel pressure

 

Can i find these things in the FSM? and will i need any special tools, except pliers, sockets and ect?

and please help me out guys, all the information will help me out... hopefully!

 

The plugs are black because it's running rich.

I doubt the injectors are new if they are this leaky.

 

send them out for professional cleaning. Or the AFM is set too rich?

 

a few more things i found out, in the rain when i step on the brakes the RPMs drop a bit, what voltage should the altenator be reading? i think its running rich because when i turn it over i get a strong fresh gasoline smell out the back, with very very little smoke. how do i adjust my AFM?

also does anyone have a good underview diagram of the car? on my way home with it, something came loose under the driver seat area. it went towards the back, and had a long weird spring inside of it. it didnt smell like gas or oil...no clue what it could of been.

thanks!

 

im having the same issue. dont mean to thread jack, my brake lights did the same thing when i pressed down on them the dash would dimm. i am currently going through my ground connections, if all else fails i guess i would test the alternator and check the fuel pump and what not.. good luck man. post if you get it fixed!

 

so....quick question. where should the temp gauge be when at full temperature? mine barely moves up the gauge. there is the first line and then there is a second then there is the whole gauge and i believe 3 more lines at the top. where should it be sitting? i believe this may be my culprit.

 

temp should be about 1/3 of the total gauge when fully warm and at idle. at least it is for me.

 

Looks like my temp gauge may not be working then. Is this considered the TEMPERATURE GAUGE or the WATER TEMPERATURE GAUGE?

 

Okay so i finally got the car home...i started it last night to get it on the trailer, started fine. got it up. flipped the fuel cut off switch once it was in place. got in it this morning to start it up, flipped the switch and tried to take it off the trailer and no go. wont turn over. it cranks and cranks but i get nothing.

would the differences in elevation cause the engine to not want to turn over now? i was in west virginia when it started and now in delaware. im really confused right now.

 

Check codes: requires either the $300 code checker from Mazda, or you can look at the writeup at teamfc3s.org on how to make your own code checker for about $3 using wire, spade lugs, resistors, and two LEDs. It should be a standard item in your tool kit.

The other procedures are in the FSM, see chapt 4.

You will need a fuel pressure test set; $16 - $18 from Harbor Freight. You will also need a common volt-ohmmeter, cheap one is ok for under $10; some nice ones in the $50-$70 range will include tachometer and dwell functions, which are useful.

Harbor Freight also has a $3 inline spark checker that is nice to use to verify that you are getting spark.