To turn or not to turn disks
Real basic question for everyone.
Do you always turn your disks when replacing pads?
Have heard both sides of the story.
1. Always turn em' to make sure the pads wear evenly.
2. Don't turn em' unless you've got severe scoring or runout. Another negative: causes them to heat faster (less mass).
Inputs appreciated.
Thanks
Do you always turn your disks when replacing pads?
Have heard both sides of the story.
1. Always turn em' to make sure the pads wear evenly.
2. Don't turn em' unless you've got severe scoring or runout. Another negative: causes them to heat faster (less mass).
Inputs appreciated.
Thanks
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 9
From: So Cal where the OC/LA/SB counties meet
Rule of thumb, as I was taught.....
As the pad generates more heat as it wears thinner. Heat is what distorts the rotor.
Soooo, rule of thumb is if you change out the pads while there is at least 50% material left, you should be able to get out of turning them. This is my maintenance plan.
Pads are cheap and time to switch out pads is about 25 minutes including time to drink a beer.
Time to pull the rotors, drop them off to be turned, pick them up, and put everything back together -- at least half a day and wayyyyy more work.
But, every time be sure and measure the thickness of the rotor with a micrometer to make sure the rotor has not worn down anywhere near discard. Also, I'd still turn them at least once every third brake job or anytime the brake pedal just doesn't feel right.
Also, brake fluid is NOT supposed to be brown. If it is, replace it. If you can afford the option, go to a good shop and have your system power bled in doing so.
Remember, there is NOTHING on your car more important than having good brakes. Absolutly nothing.
Drive well, my friend.
Soooo, rule of thumb is if you change out the pads while there is at least 50% material left, you should be able to get out of turning them. This is my maintenance plan.
Pads are cheap and time to switch out pads is about 25 minutes including time to drink a beer.
Time to pull the rotors, drop them off to be turned, pick them up, and put everything back together -- at least half a day and wayyyyy more work.
But, every time be sure and measure the thickness of the rotor with a micrometer to make sure the rotor has not worn down anywhere near discard. Also, I'd still turn them at least once every third brake job or anytime the brake pedal just doesn't feel right.
Also, brake fluid is NOT supposed to be brown. If it is, replace it. If you can afford the option, go to a good shop and have your system power bled in doing so.
Remember, there is NOTHING on your car more important than having good brakes. Absolutly nothing.
Drive well, my friend.
Last edited by HOZZMANRX7; May 16, 2002 at 07:49 PM.
I madethe mistake of not turning mine and it was worn beoynd limits and it cracked on me while doing 80 on the freeway. I make it a point to always trun them when i replace the pads but that is me
I'm a cheapskate, so I change the pads when the wear indicator no longer shows, and turn the rotors only if they are grooved or warped. I go through 2-3 sets between turnings.
geeze how much do you guys drive? I have 100k miles and untill a few weeks had all stock rotors, rear ones never even removed before. still had the paint marks across the bolts. I got new front ones a couple weeks ago while changing pads for the hell of it cause I like hiting the brakes at 100mph and not having to worry. I'm sure they were still fine. and turned the rear ones. see if I can get another 100k miles outa them 
probably not cause now I like testing my hawk pads at high speeds

probably not cause now I like testing my hawk pads at high speeds
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So here's the stats of my rotors after 72K miles:
Runout: approx 1 mil (spec is 4mils)
Thickness: 100mils greater than the min.
No grooves.
I don't see any reason to turn these. Have followed the Haynes manual and used some Emery cloth (fine) to break the glaze. Other than that, don't think I need to pull these this time.
Another question for you guys:
The rear brakes (ventilated) 20mm, have a single V spring that bridges across both pads. My new kit comes with 2 per set... should I stick with the single V spring ont the top? Or put both a second one on the lower part of the pads?
Thanks.
Runout: approx 1 mil (spec is 4mils)
Thickness: 100mils greater than the min.
No grooves.
I don't see any reason to turn these. Have followed the Haynes manual and used some Emery cloth (fine) to break the glaze. Other than that, don't think I need to pull these this time.
Another question for you guys:
The rear brakes (ventilated) 20mm, have a single V spring that bridges across both pads. My new kit comes with 2 per set... should I stick with the single V spring ont the top? Or put both a second one on the lower part of the pads?
Thanks.
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