Hey everyone, I need some help with my project (1986 Gxl), Im buying a S5 turbo,intake and exhast manifold from a friend of mine. I know of Arron's site ( still reading it) theres alot of info on his site : l . The reason that im not going to just go and buy a turbo motor is cause my N/a motor is brand new. Im not lookin for a HUGE amount of hp.Heres a couple of questions i have;

Would i be able to turbo my car without rebuilding it?
Can I turbo it without pulling the motor?
Whats a safe amount of psi to run on my motor?

any helpfull links and what not would be helpful.

Thanks for the comments And PLEASE dont flame.

 

your internals are the same as a turbo as far as quality/strenght of things like apex seals and all... although your motor will have higher compression and 2 extra ports. yes you would be able to turbo the car withough pulling the motor since there is so much room to work with. you will need to either by an aftermarket tubular turbo exhuast manifold as the stock one will not allow the turbo to clear the n/a intake manifold... and you might want to get larger injectors... other than that its just like turboing a honda or whatnot... there is more that youll have to do but its not too hard if you have a decent knowlege of cars

 

search for Aaron Cake's thread.....project TINA (turboing and NA)

 

1) yes, but a fresh motor is always a good idea (which it looks like you have covered)

2) yes, only real thing you really should do is take out the six port sleves or wire them open, depending on how you do it.

3) any amount, just make sure you have the fuel for it and make sure it is tuned properly. however, if your using the stock turbo, i wouldn't push more than 12psi.

4) http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=37694

that's my old turbo conversion. should be a VERY good place for you to start for info.

 

Not another one! I sware I am going to start prefabing these motors to sell as a drop in.

Yes you just rebuilt it.
Yes, you will just get leg cramps bending over the fenders.
depends on your tune and setup.

 

It is possible to turbo it with it still in the car but it is a MUCH bigger hassle then just unbolting it and pulling it out. You basically have to tear the motor down to the bare block to do it anyways. Arrons site doesn't really outline the project for YOU if you plan on using T2 manifolds. The method he used does not apply to you, but does give you a good idea of the work involved. The front cover needs to be replaced with a same series T2 cover for your oil return, which entails unbolting the front section of the oil pan, and removing the waterpump, alt, all your acessories (PS/AC) as they bolt to the front cover. The project needs to be done outside the car. Make sure you fill and port match the intake manifolds to the 6 port pattern. Search under threads labeled "6 port Turbo" 1st and 2nd gen sections, I have several threads as well as those that I learned from..... Weight all your options before you start and keep reading!

 

Thats opinion realy. He is using the TII manifolds so the stock turbo and manifold will bolt up with no issues that means he just needs to bolt evrything up after port matching the manifolds. So no real need to take it out.
Not true it is best IMO to use the TII front cover but he can just tap his or his oil pan. I purchased a TII front cover just for this.
Houstonderk - did the conversion using this method.

 

True, I just really believe that doing a Turbo swap like this should be attempted using the correct parts... It is opinion for sure. I was just a little leary drilling into the oil pan while it was still in the car!! Metal shavings make me nervous...So I opted for the Front Cover with stock mounting points. I hate cutting my hands and bending over all day. It is a good 6-8 hour job. I guess It is just easy to me to pull the motor out. After 17 in and outs I can do it with my eyes closed. Good luck!

 

If I were doing it I agree I would do it out of the car and swap covers. Do the TB mod and pull my coolant from the rear iron.

 

I also blocked off the coolant from the rear iron as I have always felt that running HOT water through the manifolds was a bad idea..lol

 

no one has mentioned yet that the stock N/A transmission will not hold much before it breaks. You'll want to atleast get the T2 transmission, flywheel/clutch/starter/slave cylinder. You can then use a custom driveshaft from mazdatrix that mates to your n/a rearend, or get s tock t2 driveshaft and use the t2 LSD/halfshafts. It will definitely be easier to just pull the engine. You also have to worry about fuel management, but you can search and rear about that because its been said 483247238 times before jsut like everything else in this thread.

 

I would love to see Numbers, facts or figures that show the N/A trannies are weak.. I had more power flowing out of my 87 BASE then most stock S4 t2's, I ran it hard and NEVER had any driveline issues. (rebuilt 13B with ceramic seals, MONSTER streetport, TB mod, 10mm wires, Racing beat Race header, Catco cat, Racing beat Y pipe, Ported intake manifolds, T2 injectors, Warlbro pump..MSD...ect the list goes on.) i feel that everyone keeps spewing regergitated crap about the N/A driveline... Clutches tend to go out with this setup but i feel that is due to daily dumpage and lack of driving skills...

 

thanks for all the posts and links, my clutch,flywheel and pressure plate are new also i have less the 1500 km on all the new stuff.

 

You should be fine! Good luck and feel free to Pm me with questions if I don't know, I know someone who does.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=turbo+sport

i did a turbo NA setup a few weeks ago.... basicly used NA block, and bolted the t2 stuff onto, it and modiefied my NA harness to use t2 ecu and electronics,( not that hard)

didnt take that many pics, but i got a few of starting to port match the manifolds.

 

MARTIN ran over 400whp on NA driveline with no issues. It is how hard you abuse it. I know we all know HP dont brake them TQ does but we use the HP number for a baseline of TQ output "for the nassis". I ran around 270hp at my NA rear end and draged it and launched it with a few hops and it held fine. Held alot bettor then my MX5 drive line that thing snaped on me 3 times in 2 months or so.

 

That is exactly my point.

 

will do

 

what would be a good size for an exhast system??

 

2.5-3" Is the prefered size..

 

k thanks, anything eles i should know or get also???

 

the other day my friend found a rx7 turbo for sale (cheap), so its going to make this very easy, the car runs BUT the body is just SHOT so my friend is takin the interior for his car with the suspension and im pretty much using everything eles.If i could id fix the turbo one but shes fucked . Couple of more questions

what size injectors would be best to run?
what would be a good standalone fuel managment to use?


Thx again

 

if your staying low boost you can go 550's all around but i used 720' for my secondaries.

 

I've twisted CV's apart on the N/A driveline, broke u-joints, killed some spider gears, and a few other various things at 400whp. Really, you should get a turbo driveline if you expect to make any ammount of power that's decent.

 

well without rebuildin or portin the motor i dont think ill get near 400 hp:P