My injectors are currently far from being maxed out. In fact, I have the S-AFC tuned to -36% at idle and the car is still rich enough to blow black smoke and turn the cat red.

By lighting the tires in 2nd gear, I mean shifting from 1st to 2nd, spinning the tires unable to get traction to the point they smoke...Rolling burnout.

 

Nice job!!!
Makes me wanna keep my car and do the same! =)

by the way i got the same haircut

 

So much for 4psi, eh Aaron?

Got me with that 'blew my rear rotor'.. I was so freaked

Congrats! But what are you going to do? Fuel up for 8psi? or?

PaulC

 

yea when I saw that UPDATE : BLOWN motor I was like oh no !!! All that hard work.

 

hehe... got me too. Sounds really nice. I knew it would run, but I wasn't expecting it to run that well. Not at first that is. Enjoy.

 

I have way more fuel than I need for 8PSI...I just have to tune the S-AFC so I feel comfortable running those boost levels...Up until about 5 PSI I'm running almost full rich, then it starts to creep towards the orange. I've increased all the high throttle settings by 10% just to be safe, and added another 5% on top of that above 5000 RPM. Like I said, I just have to spend some time tuning things...

However, I have noticed today that I may have a fuel leak at the primary injectors. There is a strong fuel odor under the hood, and I may have seen some wetness under the upper intake...However, I have not actually been able to see the leak, so the smell may just be the car running rich at idle (which it does)...I'll take the upper intake off on Saturday just to make sure, and avoid driving very much until then.

 

If you don't have one in there already, get a fire extinguisher. There's little worse than watching your own car burn.

 

I am going though the same prob.

Just change the o-rings and the bottom insulators (a small cost for preventive maintainance). Dont for get to use engine oil when installing the O-rings.

Before you do that, do the fuel priming to see or smell and leaks while the engine is not running. If you have a leak during this test....you will see it.

 

I have a fire extinguisher in the car...I've heard too many horror stories not to carry one.

I would assume the leak is coming from the O-rings at the top of the injector, or the banjo bolt, or possibly a hose clamp I forgot to tighten...basically, anywhere it could leak. I don't use engine oil when installing the o-rings, I use vascelene since I have lots of it around and it's nice and thick.

 

I tried an experiment on a 'clean computer'
Every time I run the video it re-installs the spyware.

 

I envy you Aaron! and a your car! Kick ***, and i'm sure if you put out a small number of kits. They'd be gone faster then you could say...supercalifrajalysticexpialiditous


Kick ***!

 

Well, I'll put it this way. I'll do the conversion for anyone who asks. It will include:

-rebuilt TII turbo/manifold/spacer
-front mounted TII intercooler
-bigger fuel pump (either the FD pump, an aftermarket unit, or whatever I can find)
-cleaned TII injectors
-S-AFC, boost guage
-Some BOV
-Downpipe
-Turbo inlet duct
-all oil and water piping
-oil/coolant change

You must leave the car with me for at least 4 months, payment in full before I even consider starting, no warranties of ANY kind.

And the price? $5000 US.

 

And how much just for the parts to install and we do the install ourselves?

 

I'm sure you can scrounge them up....I believe I spent roughly $4500 Canadian in the end, but that included several "extras" such as silicon vacuum hose, stainless oil cooler lines, replacement engine mounts, some interior trim (damaged during boost gauge install), etc...

If you search the forum for "turbo adapter" you will find instructions to make the spacer.

 

Hey Aaron,

Just curious buy why didnt you have someone make you a stainless steel turbo manifold. You might have had a nicer fit under the hood. Was it a matter of cost as im sure that would be expensive?

 

your pulsation damper is original, so dont rule that out.
JE27-20-180

mike
running 20b fc

 

Hey, Aaron, How did you get those videos onto the computer? I'd like to do the same with my tranny overhaul and driveshaft. i think its a Camera moment!

 

You spent $4500 CAN?? Damn... I thought I was doing it the expensive way.... Mine is coming to a little over $1600 US right now.

 

DC350: I used a regular video camera, and then captured with an ATI TV Wonder. The TV Wonder kind of sucks, so if I were you I'd buy a different capture card...Check out http://www.tomshardware.com and see what they recommend. Simple captured, edited roughly in Adobe Premiere and then compressed via DivX.

Drakk0r: Remember the extras that I spent money on. Also, it is a LOT more expensive to buy these parts around here since we must pay in US money, exchange, shipping, duty, etc. Can sometimes add 50% to the cost of a product.

j9fd3s: Doubt it's the PD since there is no evidence of fuel leaking from that area. In fact, there is no evidence of fuel leaking from anywhere now...Perhaps it was simply the rich smell created from idling for so long in traffic...the car is running VERY rich at idle right now...

 

Remember, PDs can be intermitant. Also, if the engine is hot, the fuel can evaporate before you see it.

Also check the charcol canister emmissions thing. If the lines aren't hooked up or the canister is bad you could smell fuel.

 

Hmm, I've never seen an intermittant PD...It's either leaking or not...

Basically, the upper intake has to come off to determine if there is a leak or not, simple as that. I'm not going to guess based on the fact that I smelled fuel once...Since then, there has been no indication that there is a fuel leak at all.

I will simple remove the upper intake on Saturday and check for leaks...

 

Wow look what I found after a week of not being on the forum. Way to go Aaron. Were the injectors new or used? Your leak reminds me of a broken injector insulator (3 dollar mazda part). One of my friends with a t2 upgraded to 680 secondaries (used) his leaked like in your description.

 

I've had 3 PDs go bad on me through the years. 2 were intermitant. One of those 2 was on a GSLSE beater I had. The car would run like ****, I'd get out and sure enough puddle of gas on the engine. I'd take a hammer and a screw driver and smack the thing a few times, and it would be good for a few weeks. I never did change it out and the car never caught fire. Drove it for like 10 k like that. (Always carried a big *** fire extinguisher, though)

 

Well, it doesn't look like there's a fuel leak at all...I was just being paranoid. I thought back, and everytime I thought I smelled gas, I was passing a gas station! Duh! Oh well, keeps me on my toes...

However, I have noticed that the car does run hotter than it did before. I chalk that up to the extra heat load the turbo has added, and that the FMIC may block some airflow to the rad. In traffic, it sits with the guage slightly above half. This does not make me happy. As a temporary solution, I will put in some Watter-Wetter. Once I have the time and extra cash, I'll get one of those neat Fluidyne rads....

I drove the car about 160KM on the highway today, and have so far had no problems save for the very rich idle.

 

i had a gas smell on my fd and it was hard to diagnose because everytime i would stop to check it, i was at a corner with a gas station. i finally remembered to check it at home and it turned out ot be a bad gas cap.

mike