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Turbo Timer

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Old 07-12-06, 12:25 AM
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Turbo Timer

Ive got an old HKS turbo timer, with the plug and play harness.

The harness has a ground, e-brake signal wire, and then 2 female two pin connectors, and 2 male two pin connectors (obviously for the in/out of the main ignition wires.

anyways, I dont know which way to hook up the male/female into the harness, I dont want to mix them up.

wondering if anyone happens to have an old insruction manual, or has ever hooked one in and can tell me which wire hooks to where.

thanks team...
Old 07-12-06, 02:41 AM
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Lol, I just went through this 2 weeks ago.

The HKS harness is pretty damn nice. It made my installation a breeze. I'll try to put this in a step bt step so if you have any trouble just PM me.

The 2 male and 2 female connectors should be attatched first. This is so you don't wire up the other things and not have enough room to hook the harness up.

If you get a phillips screwdriver, you are in buisness. take off the plastic piece that goes around the steering wheel. should be 4 or 6 screws and the piece snaps in two. Be careful because the bottom piece has a little light that screws in to illuminate the key cyclinder. Once you have that off go and stretch out because you are going to need yoga skills to get to the wires. Slide up under the dash and locate the wiring harness. You will see 3 sets of wires. One has a white connector and the other two have black connectors. You only want to deal with the ones with the black connectors. disconnect them and you will have 2 male and 2 female connectors. Plug the harness in to each connector and turn your key in the ignition. If everything lights up and your dashlights, headlights, and instrument cluster works then you are good to go. If it doesn't, just go back under and switch the either the male or female harness and try again. I couldn't locate a wiring diagram so I tried this method. I got it right on my second try. If you connect it wrong, nothing will be damaged so don't worry to much. Also make sure the car starts and turns off to be on the safe side.

Ok, now you have the harness connected and you feel pretty good about yourself. You should because the hard part is basically out of the way. Go ahead and take a seat and remove the armrest. There are two screws actually in the bin and two are hidde. be carefull not to pull to hard or you will break the the second mounting bracket. The little part on the armrest that has the security light and/or a foglight switch pops right out to reveal the second set of screws. use a knife or a thin flathead screwdriver to remove this piece. If you encounter resistance, you can tug a little because this piece is actually kind of thick. Be carefull because there are wires connected. Go ahead and disconnect them and you should see the next set of screws that keep it bolted down. Go ahead and take them out and you can remove the armrest. (This is a good time to clean the inside of the bin also.)

Now comes the only tricky part. You need to connect the E-brake wire to the E-brake signal wire. After going postal on every wire under there with a multimeter, I'll make your life easier and tell you which one it is. From the E-brake runs a wire that is covered with a loose fitting black rubber shrinkwrap. You should be able to figure this out because it is the only wire that is black and it looks out of place because it runs on top of the carpet. Cut and remove some of the black insulation and you will see a red wire beneath. Using some wire strippers, I just stripped down a little bit of the red insulation to expose the wire. Connect the E-brake wire however you choose, though I do recommend solder with electrical tape, but you can use a clamp connector also. I ran my E-brake wire under the drivers side center console so none of it shows.

Now, if you have connected everything properly, you get to do a test. take your ground wire and ground it somewhere just for this test. Plug in your turbo timer and pull up your E-brake. Put your key in the ignition and turn it to run. Your radio should kick on and all of your dashlights and headlights should be working properly. Now turn the car off and remove the key. Everything should still be on. If this happens then you are good to go. Let the timer reach 0 seconds and all of your accessories should turn off. Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the run position again. Once everything is on, turn the ignition off and remove the key. Now drop your E-brake. Everything should turn off immediately. This means that the E-brake wire is connected properly. If it doesn't, don't worry. check to make sure you have a good connection to the E-brake wire and also make sure that your brake light comes on when the E-brake is up and engaged. Keep messing with it and it should work unless the E-brake sensor is dead or the wire is bad. Don't worry to much though because that is EXTREMELY rare.

Now, if everything works correctly, connect the ground wire to somewhere out of sight and put everything back together. Test again to make sure everything is functioning and you should be good to go. All you will have to do is decide where to mount the turbo timer.

I hope this helps. I know when I searched for this, I had to get bits and pieces to get mine wired in correctly. Maybe we should sticky this under Turbo Timer Installation.

Again, if you or anyone else has any questions, feel free to PM me.
Old 07-16-06, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Boostmaniac
Lol, I just went through this 2 weeks ago.
Plug the harness in to each connector and turn your key in the ignition. If everything lights up and your dashlights, headlights, and instrument cluster works then you are good to go. If it doesn't, just go back under and switch the either the male or female harness and try again. I couldn't locate a wiring diagram so I tried this method. I got it right on my second try. If you connect it wrong, nothing will be damaged so don't worry to much

thats really all I needed to know, but AWESOME post none the less. ditto on the sticky.

thanks a lot
Old 07-16-06, 03:06 AM
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No problem man, anytime.
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