Well everything has been fine with my S5 TII except for the fact that it's been running too lean ever since the rebuild 2.5k miles ago. However, just tonight I took it out for a short spin to make sure it's still running right and something very odd is wrong. It cruises just fine below 3k rpm's but when I give it just a little gas the turbo spools all the way to 11psi(normally runs at 10) in record time and the car doesn't go anywhere. It's like the turbo is spooling but the air is not getting into the engine. I thought maybe it was a boost leak somewhere along the line but would my boost gauge still be reading such a high level if it was leaking out? Any help would be appreciated.

 

Do you hear an abnormally loud WHOOSH when it goes into boost?
Then that's a boost leak.
Although it's a leak, the turbo is working harder (i.e. overspinning) just to produce the same level of boost.
The louder boost noise is a sure sign there's a leak.

If no abnormal noises, either the leadings are not firing or you got your spark plug wires crossed.
Otherwise, your ignition timing is extremely retarded.


-Ted

 

Oh that's good. I was worried someone would suggest doing a compression test.

 

I have pretty much the same problem with my 13B-RE. And I hear a strange noise when it goes into boost (like 0 to 2 psi). I though that maybe it's my bov (since I use the valve on the Y pipe of the cosmo twins as bov). If i keep pressing throttle the boost will go to like 11 psi and the engine rpm keeps going and the engine make more noise, but the car doesn't go faster. If I play with throttle at like 60 mph, the boost increases and decreases and rpm follows but no power. If I gun it in first gear it pulls strong and at the end of second, the problem arrives. So with these symptoms I guess it's my clutch that doesn't transfer the power to rear wheels. When I swapped the engine I used an old stock clutch and PP.

My boost gauge is on the upper intake manifold and it sees boost. So I guess if I have a boost leak it must be the gasket between the upper to lower intake manifold or the gasket on between the lower intake manifold and engine.

So boost leak or worn clutch ?

BlkS5TII: Do you have the same behavior as me ?

Thanks!

 

Stock throttle body?

Your secondaries aren't opening.

This drove me NUTS when I first got my car, it would boost fine but not accellerate!

Worn clutch is easy to test... accellerate to 60MPH, get in 5th gear.

push clutch in, rev engine to 6k, release clutch while holding engine at WOT.

if it stays at 6k your clutch is fucked. If it drops right away to 2500 your clutch is fine.

if it drops slowly - your clutch is nearly-fucked.

 

sounds like a boost leak to me

 

FD3S_wanted: My problem sounds very similar to yours except I'm not getting acceleration in any gear that I know of. As soon as I noticed the problem I turned around and parked it. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to try and see if where the boost is leaking from.

I thought it might be a boost leak since I recently took off my intercooler and attempted to take off my UIM. It was running fine afterwards, but something may have come loose.

 

I have the stock 13B-RE TB. I guess secondaries are opening cause I have a wideband in the car. AFR is like 10-11 in boost. Car is not tune properly right now so I'm a bit affraid to do the clutch test at WOT. If the clutch slips it doesn't smell worn clutch.

 

You probably have a boost leak. The clutch can't worn out in a day without letting you some signs.

 

oh yeah? it couldnt be a BOOST LEAK could it!?!?!?

 

check your leading coil too

 

Am I right in assuming that the boost leak would be the gasket between the upper to lower intake manifold or the gasket on between the lower intake manifold and engine ?

 

What do you mean ?? I don't get it...

 

How can I find where the leak is? Or is it just a matter of trial and error?

 

Would the car even start with a bad or unplugged leading coil ?

 

yup

 

Yep, unless its a really cold day and then it may flood like mine did. But mine started decently until then...

 

Pressure test the intake system to check for boost leaks.

I still think youre secondary throttle blades aren't opening, have someone press the gas pedal and WATCH THEM OPEN before you say they are

Or just remove them.

Check the coils too, but it should still go pretty well with one coil or the other disconnected, just not as well as it could. How's the idle quality?

 

I have already check if the secondary throttle blades opens and they are. Forgot to mention that I removed a set of secondary throttle blades.

The idle is a little high (1100rpm) but stable.

The coil did function well at least when I installed the haltech. I will have to recheck that.

Actually I can't check anything cause the car is stored for winter, but next summer the problem will come again.

 

Get a rubber plumbing cap from Home Depot. One that can slip tightly over your TID.

Then punch a small hole in it. Then take your air compressor hose and put it in the hole and pressurize the intake. You will hear the leaks if there are any.

I normally use about 30psi.

James

 

Reshoot your ignition timing to MAKE SURE it's zero'd correctly.
I bet your ignition timing is way too retarded.
You should've mentioned Haltech at the beginning.


-Ted

 

Sorry forgot to tell. At the time I zero'd the timing, maybe I have done something wrong. Also, I retard timing like 1 degree in all range to make sure to not blow anything before it's tuned. So I gradually go down to 14 degree at 15 psi. I know most people run 15 degree at 15 psi. Would that make a huge difference ?

Is the whoosh only when going into boost ? Cause during the transition vacuum/boost I hear a whoosh and after that I don't hear it anymore. Like I said before could it be cause by the valve between the cosmo twins on the Y pipe that I use as a BOV ?

Thanks guys!

 

Let's try and work on one problem at a time...

Has the car run well after the Haltech install?
Or did you just install the Haltech and run into this problem?

Can you confirm the ignition is advacing properly?
Can you sit there and rev the engine and watch the timing marks go to the right?
Does it go to the right and then slowly go back to the pin?

If the timing marks go to the LEFT, then you got the SYNC leads backwards on the CAS.
If the timing marks initially go to the right but quickly jump back to the pin, the HOME leads are backwards.


-Ted

 

The car never ran well. This problem has been there since the first time I started the car. Initially my car was NA and I dropped a 13B-re with a haltech in it. I used the stock twins in non-seq. I have done a lots of thing at the same time, that's make the thing harder.

Unfortunatly I can't check the car right now. It's stored for the winter. As soon as I get the car back in april I will troubleshoot it. Thanks a lot and I will probably need your help in a few months.