Turbo S5 Project Running Lean, Shooting Flames Like a Cannon
10-13-10, 05:05 AM
#1
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
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Turbo S5 Project Running Lean, Shooting Flames Like a Cannon
We'll see how many friggin views this one gets. 
.
Yes, this is apparently what I have to do to get any help around here- talk about a turbo or flames shooting out my car's ***.
I don't have a turbo, and I'm not shooting fireballs. I'm a long time member of this community with an extensive record of helping dozens, if not hundreds of rotary owners with their FB Nikki carburetor problems. But as I try to get just a fraction of what I've put into this community, I remain extremely frustrated at the lack of attention I have received here in the 2nd gen section regarding my new acquisition. It seems if you're not doing a turbo swap or asking how to shoot fire out your tailpipe, no one wants to bother with you.
It's not very exciting, I know- just a plain-Jane 89 vert, completely stock. My frustration lies with my belief that most of you helping with turbo swaps and such could probably troubleshoot and fix my boring little car in no time at all!
Let me nip in the bud right off the bat all you "Go Search" post-rackers. I HAVE searched. For DAYS I have searched. Know what the most common response I see during my "searches" is? It's members telling people to search! Well there's nothing to ******* search! So let's just scratch that **** right off the bat, m'kay?
Now for the car and it's problem, for anyone still with me after my tirade...
89 vert, manual, stock, 143K on clock, cali car. Very (very good condition. Engine bay is pretty much spotless for 21 years. Looks like it leaked some brake fluid under the booster at one point (a little superficial rust there), but the engine is pretty clean.
The car starts clean, no smoke, idles where it should, though with an occasional miss or hiccup. On the road, she accelerates smoothly up to around 5800, I would say. From there, there really is no further power coming out of her, and she won't go past 7K. I am hard pressed to get her past 7K in the driveway, either.
From my FB experience (I know nothing of these FI set ups), I immediately replaced the fuel filter. No change. I ran without an air filter (just two miles); no change. Meanwhile I started my searching here and on the web. I checked for an error code, but got none. I read someone's post suggesting that no code when there is clearly a problem might be indicative of the ECU being compromised or fried or one of the pins not making good contact. I also read about Limp Home mode, though I couldn't find an accurate description of what that was actually like. I tried to force Limp Home mode so I could see if that was what I was experiencing, so I unhooked the O2 sensor. It was only yesterday on this forum that I found out that wouldn't throw her into Limp Home mode. But while the O2 sensor was disconnected, I did a code check and got #s 12 & 18. I did this to make sure that my ECU was responding in some way. I do not seem to be suffering from a poor ground on the ECU that I've read about, as there is power through the 3-4K range.
Front actuator seems to stick open. I can move it with my hands, so I think the valve is just stiff enough where the spring in the pot can't pull it closed. I've had them both off before to clean them up and make sure they could move. Guess I need to do it again, but i don't think that's my problem.
I've only just recently filled her up and hit the trip-meter so i can measure the fuel it's using.
It seems to be fuel related. Pump output? Injectors? But before I go yanking either of those, I want to rule out any other ECU/Sensor related items that I can troubleshoot. So I need some help. Injectors will go out for cleaning this winter in any case.
Thanks for reading.
.Yes, this is apparently what I have to do to get any help around here- talk about a turbo or flames shooting out my car's ***.
I don't have a turbo, and I'm not shooting fireballs. I'm a long time member of this community with an extensive record of helping dozens, if not hundreds of rotary owners with their FB Nikki carburetor problems. But as I try to get just a fraction of what I've put into this community, I remain extremely frustrated at the lack of attention I have received here in the 2nd gen section regarding my new acquisition. It seems if you're not doing a turbo swap or asking how to shoot fire out your tailpipe, no one wants to bother with you.
It's not very exciting, I know- just a plain-Jane 89 vert, completely stock. My frustration lies with my belief that most of you helping with turbo swaps and such could probably troubleshoot and fix my boring little car in no time at all!
Let me nip in the bud right off the bat all you "Go Search" post-rackers. I HAVE searched. For DAYS I have searched. Know what the most common response I see during my "searches" is? It's members telling people to search! Well there's nothing to ******* search! So let's just scratch that **** right off the bat, m'kay?
Now for the car and it's problem, for anyone still with me after my tirade...
89 vert, manual, stock, 143K on clock, cali car. Very (very good condition. Engine bay is pretty much spotless for 21 years. Looks like it leaked some brake fluid under the booster at one point (a little superficial rust there), but the engine is pretty clean.
The car starts clean, no smoke, idles where it should, though with an occasional miss or hiccup. On the road, she accelerates smoothly up to around 5800, I would say. From there, there really is no further power coming out of her, and she won't go past 7K. I am hard pressed to get her past 7K in the driveway, either.
From my FB experience (I know nothing of these FI set ups), I immediately replaced the fuel filter. No change. I ran without an air filter (just two miles); no change. Meanwhile I started my searching here and on the web. I checked for an error code, but got none. I read someone's post suggesting that no code when there is clearly a problem might be indicative of the ECU being compromised or fried or one of the pins not making good contact. I also read about Limp Home mode, though I couldn't find an accurate description of what that was actually like. I tried to force Limp Home mode so I could see if that was what I was experiencing, so I unhooked the O2 sensor. It was only yesterday on this forum that I found out that wouldn't throw her into Limp Home mode. But while the O2 sensor was disconnected, I did a code check and got #s 12 & 18. I did this to make sure that my ECU was responding in some way. I do not seem to be suffering from a poor ground on the ECU that I've read about, as there is power through the 3-4K range.
Front actuator seems to stick open. I can move it with my hands, so I think the valve is just stiff enough where the spring in the pot can't pull it closed. I've had them both off before to clean them up and make sure they could move. Guess I need to do it again, but i don't think that's my problem.
I've only just recently filled her up and hit the trip-meter so i can measure the fuel it's using.
It seems to be fuel related. Pump output? Injectors? But before I go yanking either of those, I want to rule out any other ECU/Sensor related items that I can troubleshoot. So I need some help. Injectors will go out for cleaning this winter in any case.
Thanks for reading.
10-13-10, 06:51 AM
#2
OK let's not go crazy! Some of us are busy.
The ECU and sensors can be fine, hence you are getting no error codes. However, the system is primitive. What happens at 7k? Does the car fuel cut? Can you verify your revs with an aftermarket tach? It doesn't matter that the car is clean and from California, **** happens to old cars. There are many things to check now.
There is a hidden ground(ing) point underneath the trailing coil, clean those.
The pressure sensor ground, clean that.
Multimeter time!
Check that your AFM is reading ok
Check that your TPS is reading ok
you will have to read the FSM for these values
Check the cats, are they clogged? Can you take it out and run a mid pipe instead?
The ECU and sensors can be fine, hence you are getting no error codes. However, the system is primitive. What happens at 7k? Does the car fuel cut? Can you verify your revs with an aftermarket tach? It doesn't matter that the car is clean and from California, **** happens to old cars. There are many things to check now.
There is a hidden ground(ing) point underneath the trailing coil, clean those.
The pressure sensor ground, clean that.
Multimeter time!
Check that your AFM is reading ok
Check that your TPS is reading ok
you will have to read the FSM for these values
Check the cats, are they clogged? Can you take it out and run a mid pipe instead?
10-13-10, 01:57 PM
#3
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pull your upper intake manifold, remove the vdi and clean/lube it. make sure to use a new gasket. I'd actually recommend pulling everything and doing the same.
inspect the solenoid it might not be opening.
inspect the solenoid it might not be opening.
10-13-10, 07:40 PM
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Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
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Thanks, everyone! I'll look into that ASAP. Reading up on that in the FSM now.
Clogged cats were an initial thought. How much power over stock could I expect by throwing on a header along with the pipe that replaces the cats? (Trying to determine if it's worth it to do a header while I'm under there.) If I did go with a header, what happens to the air pipe and O2 sensor?
Thanks again.
Clogged cats were an initial thought. How much power over stock could I expect by throwing on a header along with the pipe that replaces the cats? (Trying to determine if it's worth it to do a header while I'm under there.) If I did go with a header, what happens to the air pipe and O2 sensor?
Thanks again.
10-13-10, 08:16 PM
#7
Thanks, everyone! I'll look into that ASAP. Reading up on that in the FSM now.
Clogged cats were an initial thought. How much power over stock could I expect by throwing on a header along with the pipe that replaces the cats? (Trying to determine if it's worth it to do a header while I'm under there.) If I did go with a header, what happens to the air pipe and O2 sensor?
Thanks again.
Clogged cats were an initial thought. How much power over stock could I expect by throwing on a header along with the pipe that replaces the cats? (Trying to determine if it's worth it to do a header while I'm under there.) If I did go with a header, what happens to the air pipe and O2 sensor?
Thanks again.
If that works then work backwards to put it together correctly.
Too check if the solenoids work turn on the ignition and then using a little wire touch it to the colored wire of the two wires on each solenoid to ground it while the connectors are still plugged into the solenoids (This is simulating what the CEU does to turn them on). Not the wire thats black with a white or yellow stripe thats a power wire. So the little wire goes from chassis ground to either colored wire one at a time. This can also be done to hold the solenoids open one at a time or both then you can hook up a vacuum hand pump to the source hose and move the vacuum pump hose to the top or pressure side instead of the front vacuum side of the hand pump. Apply pressure and watch the diaphrams to see if they open all the way or at all. They should be open around 5psi. Tee in a pressure gauge to verify if you want to be more thourough.
If you still can't figure it out I can probably walk you through it on the phone, but you can be assured you probably won't get a better answer on here considering my post a long time ago of a similar problem and nobody had a clue. I know it inside and out now since I had to take the whole freaking thing apart and redo it all the right way.
Don't take your cats off if your in CA or you could recieve a ref ticket. Then you just have to put them right back on lol!
Forgot to say the O2 sensor has a bung on the header and the air pipe gets deleted and at that point so does the acv and air pump usually but your in CA so leave it alone unless you like being harassed by the police and paying fines.
Last edited by Skidtron; 10-13-10 at 08:20 PM. Reason: forgot something
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10-14-10, 04:31 AM
#8
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It's the VDI not turning on more times than not. The 6pi can be on at idle and almost no change to the idle will happen. You could always rig up the ports with wire holding them open to test this theory. Same as on the VDI diaphram. Or its the usual...... its not plumbed in correctly. the pressure source is the same as the 6pi on the factory vacuum pipe mess. Then through the solenoids and on to their respective diaphrams. The factory manual has a bad pic of the vacuum hoses and is wrong. take a hose from the nipple close to where the air pump main hose feeds the ACV. That's the pressure source on a stock car. It's right behind the main hose. (I'd take a pic but I don't have a ACV or Airpump) Then run it all the way to the other side of the engine. Put a tee on it and feed both the 6pi and VDI solenoids. Then run hose out the other side of the solenoids to the respective diaphrams. This will negate the possibility of bad vacuum hose routing which is super common.
If that works then work backwards to put it together correctly.
Too check if the solenoids work turn on the ignition and then using a little wire touch it to the colored wire of the two wires on each solenoid to ground it while the connectors are still plugged into the solenoids (This is simulating what the CEU does to turn them on). Not the wire thats black with a white or yellow stripe thats a power wire. So the little wire goes from chassis ground to either colored wire one at a time. This can also be done to hold the solenoids open one at a time or both then you can hook up a vacuum hand pump to the source hose and move the vacuum pump hose to the top or pressure side instead of the front vacuum side of the hand pump. Apply pressure and watch the diaphrams to see if they open all the way or at all. They should be open around 5psi. Tee in a pressure gauge to verify if you want to be more thourough.
If you still can't figure it out I can probably walk you through it on the phone, but you can be assured you probably won't get a better answer on here considering my post a long time ago of a similar problem and nobody had a clue. I know it inside and out now since I had to take the whole freaking thing apart and redo it all the right way.
Don't take your cats off if your in CA or you could recieve a ref ticket. Then you just have to put them right back on lol!
Forgot to say the O2 sensor has a bung on the header and the air pipe gets deleted and at that point so does the acv and air pump usually but your in CA so leave it alone unless you like being harassed by the police and paying fines.
If that works then work backwards to put it together correctly.
Too check if the solenoids work turn on the ignition and then using a little wire touch it to the colored wire of the two wires on each solenoid to ground it while the connectors are still plugged into the solenoids (This is simulating what the CEU does to turn them on). Not the wire thats black with a white or yellow stripe thats a power wire. So the little wire goes from chassis ground to either colored wire one at a time. This can also be done to hold the solenoids open one at a time or both then you can hook up a vacuum hand pump to the source hose and move the vacuum pump hose to the top or pressure side instead of the front vacuum side of the hand pump. Apply pressure and watch the diaphrams to see if they open all the way or at all. They should be open around 5psi. Tee in a pressure gauge to verify if you want to be more thourough.
If you still can't figure it out I can probably walk you through it on the phone, but you can be assured you probably won't get a better answer on here considering my post a long time ago of a similar problem and nobody had a clue. I know it inside and out now since I had to take the whole freaking thing apart and redo it all the right way.
Don't take your cats off if your in CA or you could recieve a ref ticket. Then you just have to put them right back on lol!
Forgot to say the O2 sensor has a bung on the header and the air pipe gets deleted and at that point so does the acv and air pump usually but your in CA so leave it alone unless you like being harassed by the police and paying fines.
I like the car very much as is. I would want to see at least a 10-15% increase in power if I were to make it much louder. -But not at the cost of complicating the already complicated stock intake system by delete certain things.
It sounds like deleting the air pump would remove the pressure source for port actuators and VDI.
I'll track the VDI this weekend. Thanks for getting me in the right direction.
10-14-10, 04:34 PM
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both valves like to carbon up on the INSIDE of the manifold.
the best rule of thumb with these is to make sure stuff works, IE the VDI and 6 ports, and then just LEAVE IT ALONE. removing the "rats nest" really gains nothing, if you look you'll see a lot of "i removed my emissions and now the car doesn't do ____" threads.
10-14-10, 05:51 PM
#12
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
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Yeah, I'm not looking to remove the rat's nest. On the FB (carbed) the rat's nest is a catastrofuck of vac lines & solenoids designed to control the autochoke & idle altitude and AC comp. -Easy to yank without compromising power. But it's pretty obvious that the slimmed down rat's nest on this car serves more of a performance duty.
I was only mentioning how it operates with regards to replacing the cats and "tossing in" a header while I was at it; - the common thing to do with an FB. It appears that the 89-92 13bs differ in that they require the air pump to operate the VDI & 5-6 port system, so it seems the installation of a header would either render that system inoperable (thereby negating the performance gain from the header...) or it would require a bit of additional work to get those systems to work via vacuum (swapping with pre 89 parts).
-Do I have that right?
I was only mentioning how it operates with regards to replacing the cats and "tossing in" a header while I was at it; - the common thing to do with an FB. It appears that the 89-92 13bs differ in that they require the air pump to operate the VDI & 5-6 port system, so it seems the installation of a header would either render that system inoperable (thereby negating the performance gain from the header...) or it would require a bit of additional work to get those systems to work via vacuum (swapping with pre 89 parts).
-Do I have that right?
10-14-10, 07:02 PM
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Yeah, I'm not looking to remove the rat's nest. On the FB (carbed) the rat's nest is a catastrofuck of vac lines & solenoids designed to control the autochoke & idle altitude and AC comp. -Easy to yank without compromising power. But it's pretty obvious that the slimmed down rat's nest on this car serves more of a performance duty.
I was only mentioning how it operates with regards to replacing the cats and "tossing in" a header while I was at it; - the common thing to do with an FB. It appears that the 89-92 13bs differ in that they require the air pump to operate the VDI & 5-6 port system, so it seems the installation of a header would either render that system inoperable (thereby negating the performance gain from the header...) or it would require a bit of additional work to get those systems to work via vacuum (swapping with pre 89 parts).
-Do I have that right?
I was only mentioning how it operates with regards to replacing the cats and "tossing in" a header while I was at it; - the common thing to do with an FB. It appears that the 89-92 13bs differ in that they require the air pump to operate the VDI & 5-6 port system, so it seems the installation of a header would either render that system inoperable (thereby negating the performance gain from the header...) or it would require a bit of additional work to get those systems to work via vacuum (swapping with pre 89 parts).
-Do I have that right?
the ACV works the same in the FC as it does in all the other rotary cars, at low speeds the air goes to PORT AIR, which is the exhaust ports, or its just vented to atmosphere. the air line to the cat, is a bit of a red herring. it does get used, but mainly on decel and transitions.
so put the header on, makes no difference to the anything except power, which is good. the 84-88 way using the exhaust can be problematic with a freeflow exhaust
10-14-10, 07:04 PM
#14
You can leave the air pump in with the header and retain functionality.. You just block off the line feeding the cats. I THINK. Hoping someone chimes in, it's been a long time since i've had my S5 N/A and thought about these things.
edit
beaten to it!
edit
beaten to it!
Last edited by beefhole; 10-14-10 at 07:04 PM. Reason: i got beat off!
10-14-10, 07:05 PM
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oh one other little quick thing, the VDI and 6 port solenoids are triggered from RPM and LOAD, so they probably wont open revving it in the driveway.
you need to drive the car. some people like to mark the shafts of the actuators with grease, or a zip tie.
you need to drive the car. some people like to mark the shafts of the actuators with grease, or a zip tie.
10-14-10, 10:13 PM
#16
Here is how you run the 6PI and VDI correctly without the airpump or ACV. For a S5 NA engine only!
Do it like this and it will work like factory. The air pump is an electric air horn pump. My car had been like this for a couple years now no problem. You will need to adapt the hose from the airpump to a regulat vacuum hose side. On my car the new airpump is mounted near the carcoal canister. The relays are nearby but should be in the cabin to protect them. I keep telling myself to move them and never have lol! Get power from the battery or main fuse box whatever's clever for your car. On my car I use all the smog racks still even though nothing actually is being used it appears to be stock still. All the solenoids have to remain plugged in or you get ECU codes. The two solenoids on the ACV are still plugged in and hanging zip tied to the main harness crossing the gap to the chassis on the intake and exhaust side of the engine. I have no codes set and it never sets codes. This works great you will hear the buzz of the electric motor though. Sounds like a loud version of the shift warning buzzer. I'm use to it now I don't even notice it tilll somone new rides and asks what the noise is.
The way it works is when the ECU grounds the solenoid its trying to open, the relay for that solenoid also closes applying power to the electric pump and hence providing the air pressure to move the diaphram. It opens them almost instantaneously so don't worry about a gradual or creeping happening. It honsetly feels a bit like the feeling of VTEC on a Honda engine. Doing it this way insures that the VDI or the 6PI can turn on independently as well since there are a couple senerios where that needs to happen to make the engine operate correctly.
Do it like this and it will work like factory. The air pump is an electric air horn pump. My car had been like this for a couple years now no problem. You will need to adapt the hose from the airpump to a regulat vacuum hose side. On my car the new airpump is mounted near the carcoal canister. The relays are nearby but should be in the cabin to protect them. I keep telling myself to move them and never have lol! Get power from the battery or main fuse box whatever's clever for your car. On my car I use all the smog racks still even though nothing actually is being used it appears to be stock still. All the solenoids have to remain plugged in or you get ECU codes. The two solenoids on the ACV are still plugged in and hanging zip tied to the main harness crossing the gap to the chassis on the intake and exhaust side of the engine. I have no codes set and it never sets codes. This works great you will hear the buzz of the electric motor though. Sounds like a loud version of the shift warning buzzer. I'm use to it now I don't even notice it tilll somone new rides and asks what the noise is.
The way it works is when the ECU grounds the solenoid its trying to open, the relay for that solenoid also closes applying power to the electric pump and hence providing the air pressure to move the diaphram. It opens them almost instantaneously so don't worry about a gradual or creeping happening. It honsetly feels a bit like the feeling of VTEC on a Honda engine. Doing it this way insures that the VDI or the 6PI can turn on independently as well since there are a couple senerios where that needs to happen to make the engine operate correctly.
10-15-10, 04:46 AM
#17
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the ACV works the same in the FC as it does in all the other rotary cars, at low speeds the air goes to PORT AIR, which is the exhaust ports, or its just vented to atmosphere. the air line to the cat, is a bit of a red herring. it does get used, but mainly on decel and transitions.
so put the header on, makes no difference to the anything except power, which is good. the 84-88 way using the exhaust can be problematic with a freeflow exhaust
10-15-10, 05:01 AM
#18
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Can I find a quieter air source, and how is air pressure regulated, or does it matter? The solenoids determine when the pressure is released to the ports, so then I only have to be concerned about meeting a minimum pressure? (Correct?) The FSM says 1.6 psi for the actuators to fully open, and 2.8 psi for the VDI to open (testing the actuator pots). If the pressure is higher they'll just open more quickly once the electric solenoid opens, right?
What's the highest pressure I can use from a source before I have to worry about solenoid or actuator pot damage?
Thanks again.
10-15-10, 11:39 AM
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i have seen a couple of dyno sheets.
car A, had the RB cat delete pipe and presilencer into an HKS sport exhaust, it did 142rwhp
car B, had an RB header/presilencer into an HKS exhaust and it did 141rwhp.
car B had 200,000miles on the engine, dynos were on different days, car A was a red GTUS
so IMO the FC manifold isn't that bad, the outlet is 60-65mm, which seems to be about right for a mild HP car.
since its a vert i'd imagine you wanna keep the cats too, it might be worth it to check exhaust backpressure, you can make a fitting and install in place of the o2 sensor. i did this to my FC and found a clogged cat. removing it netted me 3.5psi of backpressure in the exhaust, power difference from 4.5 was totally noticeable
10-15-10, 02:10 PM
#20
Skidtron, that was so far beyond expectations. Thank you so much for all your help!
Can I find a quieter air source, and how is air pressure regulated, or does it matter? The solenoids determine when the pressure is released to the ports, so then I only have to be concerned about meeting a minimum pressure? (Correct?) The FSM says 1.6 psi for the actuators to fully open, and 2.8 psi for the VDI to open (testing the actuator pots). If the pressure is higher they'll just open more quickly once the electric solenoid opens, right?
What's the highest pressure I can use from a source before I have to worry about solenoid or actuator pot damage?
Thanks again.
Can I find a quieter air source, and how is air pressure regulated, or does it matter? The solenoids determine when the pressure is released to the ports, so then I only have to be concerned about meeting a minimum pressure? (Correct?) The FSM says 1.6 psi for the actuators to fully open, and 2.8 psi for the VDI to open (testing the actuator pots). If the pressure is higher they'll just open more quickly once the electric solenoid opens, right?
What's the highest pressure I can use from a source before I have to worry about solenoid or actuator pot damage?
Thanks again.
Ya I had posted it before with pics of the install and all that. but nobody cares about making anything work correctly so whatever. God forbid it was added to the archive. It answers a lot of questions.
The electric motor puts out 8psi or so usually when I test them. Like I said Mine has been like this for two years. I burnt up a pump after a year and a half. Replaced it and still going strong. I thought about adding a regulator or pressure relief to the system to keep from damaging the pump but they don't cost much. The solenoids don'tseem to care about the extra pressure.
hold on....I'm gonna eat my top ramen then finish this post.
10-15-10, 02:31 PM
#21
OK I'm back damn Top Ramen is delicious if i was a Billionaire i would still eat it.
Where was i ahhhhhh....
Not sure but I haven't broke a diaphram yet so I wouldn't worry too much about that. if one breaks it was probably messed up already. The cool thing about this is once your setup like this you can just turn the ignition on and ground the solenoid lead with a probe and watch to make sure your diaphram opens. So basically you can test them whenever you want. Kinda nice. I haven't measured the current draw of the pump yet so no info there.
I did get it to work quieter by covering half the intake hole to the pump with tape. Also the pump could probably be taken apart and examined closer to see if there's a way to make it quieter. I just honestly don't care on my car. I'll leave that up to you if it bugs you maybe you can do something about the noise.
The other super gangster way you could do it is run a hose to inside the car and hook it to your hand pump and you could pump it up while you drive. LOL That would be quieter and really funny to watch. Your passenger would be like"WTF are you doing" and you'd be pumping and saying"trying to make my car go faster"
OMG that would be funny as hell.
Where was i ahhhhhh....
Not sure but I haven't broke a diaphram yet so I wouldn't worry too much about that. if one breaks it was probably messed up already. The cool thing about this is once your setup like this you can just turn the ignition on and ground the solenoid lead with a probe and watch to make sure your diaphram opens. So basically you can test them whenever you want. Kinda nice. I haven't measured the current draw of the pump yet so no info there.
I did get it to work quieter by covering half the intake hole to the pump with tape. Also the pump could probably be taken apart and examined closer to see if there's a way to make it quieter. I just honestly don't care on my car. I'll leave that up to you if it bugs you maybe you can do something about the noise.
The other super gangster way you could do it is run a hose to inside the car and hook it to your hand pump and you could pump it up while you drive. LOL That would be quieter and really funny to watch. Your passenger would be like"WTF are you doing" and you'd be pumping and saying"trying to make my car go faster"
OMG that would be funny as hell.
10-15-10, 05:01 PM
#24
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
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You need like a hand pump from a blood pressure cuff with the spiral cord coming out of the cigarette lighter or something. LOL
10-16-10, 04:38 AM
#25
ANTI-REPUBLICAN
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OK I'm back damn Top Ramen is delicious if i was a Billionaire i would still eat it.
Where was i ahhhhhh....
Not sure but I haven't broke a diaphram yet so I wouldn't worry too much about that. if one breaks it was probably messed up already. The cool thing about this is once your setup like this you can just turn the ignition on and ground the solenoid lead with a probe and watch to make sure your diaphram opens. So basically you can test them whenever you want. Kinda nice. I haven't measured the current draw of the pump yet so no info there.
I did get it to work quieter by covering half the intake hole to the pump with tape. Also the pump could probably be taken apart and examined closer to see if there's a way to make it quieter. I just honestly don't care on my car. I'll leave that up to you if it bugs you maybe you can do something about the noise.
The other super gangster way you could do it is run a hose to inside the car and hook it to your hand pump and you could pump it up while you drive. LOL That would be quieter and really funny to watch. Your passenger would be like"WTF are you doing" and you'd be pumping and saying"trying to make my car go faster"
OMG that would be funny as hell.
Where was i ahhhhhh....
Not sure but I haven't broke a diaphram yet so I wouldn't worry too much about that. if one breaks it was probably messed up already. The cool thing about this is once your setup like this you can just turn the ignition on and ground the solenoid lead with a probe and watch to make sure your diaphram opens. So basically you can test them whenever you want. Kinda nice. I haven't measured the current draw of the pump yet so no info there.
I did get it to work quieter by covering half the intake hole to the pump with tape. Also the pump could probably be taken apart and examined closer to see if there's a way to make it quieter. I just honestly don't care on my car. I'll leave that up to you if it bugs you maybe you can do something about the noise.
The other super gangster way you could do it is run a hose to inside the car and hook it to your hand pump and you could pump it up while you drive. LOL That would be quieter and really funny to watch. Your passenger would be like"WTF are you doing" and you'd be pumping and saying"trying to make my car go faster"
OMG that would be funny as hell.