I just reinstalled my turbo after getting it rebuilt and now one of the oil lines is leaking really badly.
Is it necessary to use gasket goo on the oil return and feed lines when when replacing the turbo, or should it seal on its own?

 

There are gaskets, either paper or some plastic-like material, that are intended for those locations. I wouldn't trust silicone alone to seal against the hot oil and hot metal. Install those gaskets, but make absolutely certain your feed line isn't cracked as well, it's happened to me and other people before, you might not be able to even see a crack in it, but if it's cracked as soon as it gets hot and pressurized it'll spray oil all over your turbo and likely cause an engine fire.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo...Q5fAccessories

 

thanks for the link. Can these be used to seal the oil return line as well?
The gaskets for the oil return and oil feed have different part numbers in the mazda catalogue, so I'm guessing not.

 

i found the part at mazdatrix http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=14-2930-N385

I'm also looking for a gasket for the turbo to manifold and the cheapest I've found one for online is $40.
Does anyone know where I can get one cheaper?

 

If you want a quality turbo/mani gasket then no, you can't really get them any cheaper. There's no harm in checking around, but the turbo/mani gasket is specially made. It's housed with metal (looks like stainless steel) and there's paper or something inside, it needs to be that way so it crushes some when installed, this ensures a good seal which is very important to your performance and so that your turbo doesn't come loose and then hurt itself and blow away lots of exhaust energy you could be using to drive the turbine.

I'm pretty sure the oil return on the turbo is a different inside diameter if nothing else, so yes you should just buy the appropriate gasket for that as well.

 

One of the bolts that connects the oil feed pipe to the turbo twisted and snapped while I was tightening it and I'm trying to find a replacement for it as well.
In the mazda parts catalogue its item number is 997940820.
On this website:
http://www.worldpartsexpress.com/par...&siteid=214078

it says that it's an alternator bolt for a 1997 model mazda.
Does mazda reuse part numbers/parts in newer model cars, or would this be a different part from the one I'm looking for?

 

I think I've just used regular grade 5 bolts for those, but if you can find grade 8 for them I'd go with those. I don't think they're anything particularly special like exhaust studs.

Make sure all your threads are clean and most of all DRY or else it can throw your torque specs out the window. Either that or just stop cranking as hard as you can on a tiny bolt.

 

It's got asbestos inside and I'd rather avoid it if I can. Does anyone know where I can get ones made from copper or something else?

 

you're right, Mazda had no ******* clue what they were doing when they designed that gasket. weld the damn things together for all I care.

you do know a lot of brake pads use asbestos, right? you're closer to eating a whole brake pad than getting a whiff of asbestos from that gasket...

 

just found out that because the UK completely banned asbestos quite some time ago, mazda was forced to make parts for FCs in the UK that don't contain asbestos, so I'm going to order everything from there.

 

asbestos was used so widely in the past because it works so damn well. are you worried you'll catch cancer from a wafer thin gasket?

 

lmk how much they cost