Turbo N/A wont start
12-25-12, 02:15 PM
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Turbo N/A wont start
I have a 88 GXL turbo 6 port with the following mods. China t45 turbo, 24x12x3 fmic, 3" intercooler piping, no omp or ratsnest, s5 tii injectors, 40mm external wastegate, 4" exhaust with a 5x8 oval magnaflow muffler, s5 tii alternator, aluminum radiator with aftermarket thermo switch, aluminum hood off of 86 auto and doors off the same car, emanage ultimate (not installed yet waiting for 3 bar map sensor hope to get it friday) Walbro 255 fuel pump. All this running on a s4 6-port on a n327 ecu.
I just put another enging in it and had it running off these injectors but had a major bog down at half throttle so thinking i had bad secondary injectors I changed then to some s5 na injectors then it would not start at all. So i put the other injectors in it and still wont start. car is flooding bad ive been deflooding the car and pulling the spark plugs and drying them with a heat gun. fuel pressure is 40 in line and 70 deadheaded to the pump return pressure dosent drop to under 15 for about 15 minutes. I have tested the thermosensor, cas, tps, has a new afm (tested it as well), no vacuum leaks, great spark, new o2 sensor. When I put the doors on I just cut the wires to the original ones and the car has no stero in it.
Satch said to cut off fuel to the injectors and try starting it with starting fluid but I havent had a chance to run to my shop to try it yet. Anymore ideas to try while Im down there? I would really love to get the car going this next weekend cause I have a 4 day weekend coming up to work on it.
I just put another enging in it and had it running off these injectors but had a major bog down at half throttle so thinking i had bad secondary injectors I changed then to some s5 na injectors then it would not start at all. So i put the other injectors in it and still wont start. car is flooding bad ive been deflooding the car and pulling the spark plugs and drying them with a heat gun. fuel pressure is 40 in line and 70 deadheaded to the pump return pressure dosent drop to under 15 for about 15 minutes. I have tested the thermosensor, cas, tps, has a new afm (tested it as well), no vacuum leaks, great spark, new o2 sensor. When I put the doors on I just cut the wires to the original ones and the car has no stero in it.
Satch said to cut off fuel to the injectors and try starting it with starting fluid but I havent had a chance to run to my shop to try it yet. Anymore ideas to try while Im down there? I would really love to get the car going this next weekend cause I have a 4 day weekend coming up to work on it.
Last edited by jmike575; 12-25-12 at 02:21 PM.
12-25-12, 07:16 PM
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12-26-12, 10:32 AM
#13
You've probably already flooded it out trying to start it. Take the plugs out and clean them well and do a deflood procedure. Since you have an s4 car the afm is also the fuel pump switch, with the ignition i nthe on position(car not running) if you hold the afm door slightly open it will engage the pump, that should make it pretty easy to get the fpr set to a reasonable level initially(like 35psi).
Im not seeing you list a Widwband O2 sensor, please tell me you intend to run one on this setup.
Im not seeing you list a Widwband O2 sensor, please tell me you intend to run one on this setup.
12-26-12, 01:19 PM
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No wideband yet. Only going to run 6 psi till i get one I am just trying to get it going before I put to much more into it. Should I just install the emanage after I get my stuff in and see what happens?
Last edited by jmike575; 12-26-12 at 01:30 PM.
12-27-12, 07:50 AM
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I think I figured something out. When I line up the timing marks on the pulley and the cas they should stay lined up right. I mean if I crank the engine then line up the mark on the pulley then pull the cas it should be on the mark right? Cause its not. I also ordered my wideband yesterday to.
12-27-12, 08:16 AM
#16
No wideband + NA ecu + turbocharger and you've already gone half-throttle. So you don't know if it was a rich bog-down or a lean-bog down. What you need to do is compression check the engine first.
Banzai Racing Compression Test
And the CAS gear is (I think) 1/3 the size of the e-shaft gear. That means it will not always be lined up when you pull the CAS back out. If you lined it up properly when you installed it, then it will not jump teeth... it kind of can't do that.
Banzai Racing Compression Test
And the CAS gear is (I think) 1/3 the size of the e-shaft gear. That means it will not always be lined up when you pull the CAS back out. If you lined it up properly when you installed it, then it will not jump teeth... it kind of can't do that.
12-27-12, 08:56 AM
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As for the ecu will the emanage ultimate not work right with the n327? Dont know if it was a righ or a lean. I will install the wide band right when I get it. If the emanage will run with this ecu should I install it as well?
12-27-12, 09:17 AM
#19
No wideband + NA ecu + turbocharger and you've already gone half-throttle. So you don't know if it was a rich bog-down or a lean-bog down. What you need to do is compression check the engine first.
Banzai Racing Compression Test
And the CAS gear is (I think) 1/3 the size of the e-shaft gear. That means it will not always be lined up when you pull the CAS back out. If you lined it up properly when you installed it, then it will not jump teeth... it kind of can't do that.
Banzai Racing Compression Test
And the CAS gear is (I think) 1/3 the size of the e-shaft gear. That means it will not always be lined up when you pull the CAS back out. If you lined it up properly when you installed it, then it will not jump teeth... it kind of can't do that.
12-27-12, 09:30 AM
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I think I figured something out. When I line up the timing marks on the pulley and the cas they should stay lined up right. I mean if I crank the engine then line up the mark on the pulley then pull the cas it should be on the mark right? Cause its not. I also ordered my wideband yesterday to.
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12-27-12, 03:58 PM
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12-27-12, 04:38 PM
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So lets sum this up:
Shitty chinese turbo
Shitty wastegate
Stock TII injectors
NA motor
NA ecu
You're doing everything wrong.
Get a turbo that won't grenade.
Get a wastegate that won't fail and spike boost.
Get injectors for the power you intend to make(related to turbo size)
Get a 13bt block
Get a real ECU like Haltech,Motec,etc.
NA ecu's and "boost sensors" are intended to read vacuum only. It has no clue what your doing when the vacuum "drops to zero"
I don't even know if the NA AFM maxes out at any certain cfm. I know the TII one is good for somewhere near 300hp.
Piggy back ecu's can work but most of the time they fail because they're using 20+ year old harnesses and outdated ecu's.
Shitty chinese turbo
Shitty wastegate
Stock TII injectors
NA motor
NA ecu
You're doing everything wrong.
Get a turbo that won't grenade.
Get a wastegate that won't fail and spike boost.
Get injectors for the power you intend to make(related to turbo size)
Get a 13bt block
Get a real ECU like Haltech,Motec,etc.
NA ecu's and "boost sensors" are intended to read vacuum only. It has no clue what your doing when the vacuum "drops to zero"
I don't even know if the NA AFM maxes out at any certain cfm. I know the TII one is good for somewhere near 300hp.
Piggy back ecu's can work but most of the time they fail because they're using 20+ year old harnesses and outdated ecu's.