myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

hey guys, i finally finished my s5 turbo into 86 gxl swap today. I started her up and no fuel was comin, but i fixed that problem. Now she actually runs, but doesnt idle. Sometimes it bounces all the way up to 6k for like 5 seconds give or take then goes down to about 1/2k for a couple seconds then dies out. heres a vid, i need help guys! pleaseeeee, thanks
-mitch
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HAILERS

In the video, is the engine fully warmed up? If it is fully warmed up, and when the engine is *idling* low (below 1000 rpm), does the timing light show the timing is correct?

FYI: The engine HAS to be fully warmed up (water thermo sensor function) and the rpms MUST be below 1000rpm (actually somewhere closer to below 1200 rpm, but tachs have been know to be OFF). So, hot engine, idle below 1000 rpm, the timing light should show the mark on the pulley being opposite the fixed pin on the front cover.

Idle is controlled by a number of things. BAC is an assistant. Water thermowax is used to keep the rpm at 1300rpm when the engine is cold and gradually lowers the engine speed down to 750rpm (if the idle was set right in the first place).

A crack at the turbo inlet duct, at the turbo itself, can cause unauthorized air leaks that cause idle problems.

A leak of the hose off the BAC to the turbo outlet duct can cause idle problems.

Using a non turbo pressure sensor with a Turbo ECU causes idle problems.

There's a long laundry list.

Misrouting of the three/four *vacuum* lines on the back of the throttle body causes idle problems. Only one is a real vacuum line.

Long laundry list.

Rock hard grommets on the fuel injectors where they mate with the engine causes idle problems. Read Air Leakage.

The fuel injector air bleed nipple located b/t the two oil injectors on the lower intake manifold should have a vacuum hose going to the rear of the intake manifold. The nipple on the back of the manifold should NOT be a nipple sucking vacuum. Only the bottom nipple has vacuum and should be going to the water thermovalve NEAR the water thermowax. At least it's that way on a seried four Turbo engine. I'm not that sure about the series five turbo engine.

Engine does not sound that bad. Just no idle I guess.

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

right now im using the nonturbo bost pressure sensor with a turbo ecu, so i guess ill buy a turbo one this weekend off ebay or something.
all my injector grommets are brand new.

i guess its trial and error.
this being my first rotary i LOVE the way it sounds
thanks for your input hailers, i always see you helping others, rotogod

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

i also forgot the mention theres some smoke coming out of the turbo i havent exactly pinpointed where, but its noticeable.

HAILERS

Too hard to tell from here. Could be water from the banjo fitting on the turbo. Could be the oil feed line connection on the turbo. If not either of those , AND it's not just residue oil on the housings, then remove the intake duct and see if there's a large residue of oil where the duct meets the turbo. That MIGHT indicate a bad turbo bearing.

I've run turbo engines with non turbo pressure sensors and vice versa and the idle is always not ideal until I put the right sensor on the right engine. It's a matter of the output of the two sensors. One is a one bar sensor and the other a two bar sensor. Their outputs at ANY given vacuum will be quite different. The output to the ECU is what I talk about.

Then again the problem might be something else after you fix that source of problems.

Using the non turbo harness on the engine. Right?

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

yeah, im using the n/a harness. i followed all the instructions for the series swap. got basically everything s4 turbo except for the map sensor you stated. Im also using the s4 n/a maf, but then again they said i said could use the s4 n/a maf to get it running, but the turbo one would be ideal.
my oil drain back tube is leaking alittle cause its bent so that might be causing the smoking.

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

ive been looking for the s4 turbo map sensor on ebay, but its a bitch to find one, not to mention mazdatrix retails them for 360$..

dot_txt

iTrader: (1)

I know there are plenty of people on the forum that have spare parts.. look in the for sale section. I'm sure you can get an S4 boost sensor and AFM for less than 200. Good luck

HAILERS

Well, while your hanging around waiting for parts, and have time on your hands, you MIGHT put the non turbo ECU/pressure sensor and afm all on, then start the engine. It does not take that much time and might reveal *something*.

You don't have to bolt the na ECU in the floor. Just lay it on top of the turbo ECU and put the plugs on it. The other two items are already on the car. Just sort of saying you'd have a *matched set* so to speak. Gives you something to do anyway. Can't hurt anything.

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

alright sick. ill try that when i go to work this week. as for the bps and afm, i found someone on the forum .

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

another quick question hailers.
im gonna be running an exhaust with no cats.
i already got the fuel cut controller, but my question is do you think i need an safc?
or can i save my money for now, and buy one when i get my wastegate ported.
im running the stock s5 turbo injectors with the stock s4 turbo fuel pump.

HAILERS

Pretty sure your going to have to. That three inch open exhaust and ????? K and N air filter are going to have you boosting way above stock. Personally I'd bypass buying the SAFC and go for???? RTEK2.1. Just save up a couple of months or whatever. The RTEK 2.1 will also solve a number of hesitations that you might have plus the no flood feature and the feature where you can adjust the START mixture to help out on any HOT start problems you might develop. Then you can also resell that FCD that you presently have, and use whatever you get out of it to go for the RTEK.

evileagle

iTrader: (1)

If this is a Jspec motor you dropped in they often cover them with this sealant cleaner crap that will burn off for a while.

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

i did some research and it sounds good, the 2.1 is only like 100$ more then an apexi safc. have you dealt with both?

Chris Boots

go for the Rtek. It is WAY better than any safc. with the Rtek you can adjust the fuel map, it will tell you what every sensor is reading ( ex. water temp, air intake temp, O2 sensor, timing, TPS etc.). you can adjust the timing based upon how much boost the engine is at, check the duty cycle on the injectors blah blah blah and one of the best parts... you just plug it right in using your own ECU that they rebuild for you. Apexi got nothing on the Rtek. Trust me, the Rtek is the only way to have a safely modified RX7. Oh and I have dealt with both, first a safc and then the Rtek 2.0 now the Rtek 2.1... I'll never go back to the Apexi

evileagle

iTrader: (1)

Outside of real standalone EMS

Spectator

iTrader: (1)

Why are you using an S4 airflow meter if its an S5?


Spec.

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

alright, ill use my pda at work. ima go rtek fer sure then, when my tax return comes in i know what ill be spending it on
and im using the s4 afm because i have a s4 turbo ecu.
i swapped the s5 turbo motor into an s4 gxl like stated above

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

alright, hailers. i recieved the turbo boost pressure sensor today and went to my work. I installed it and decided to give the car a start. again the car started right up, it went to about 3k for like 4 seconds then bogged out and shut off. idk what the hell is wrong.. i went by the vacuum diagrams from mazda so the vacuum should be right. it has an aftermarket BOV(the one you see in the video) so some of the wastegate lines are blocked off. when i kept on the throttle to keep the engine running, a bunch of air was rushing out of the BOV. this is probably from it being damaged during the shipping as the lip is cracked(as you can see). i am stumped.. ive put all my money from my weak paying job into this car and it still wont even idle... this project is becomming more depressing then joyful.
PPPleeasseeee someone help.. lol

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

will a BOVthat has a pretty noticeable leak cause the motor to not idle?

turboIIrotary

iTrader: (9)

yes. it is letting all of that metered air out you can do a quick test and take of the bov off and plug up the hole to see if that is causing your idle problem or if you still have the stock one put that one on.

evileagle

iTrader: (1)

Definitely. That's just a giant air leak.

Mazdaracer4fun

iTrader: (2)

hey dont feel bad i have SAME DAMN PROBLEM with my 88 gxl swapped to COMPLETE s5 JDM TURBO II ... i replaced entire wiring harness' and EVERY thing wiring and electrical is now s5 and same with N370 ECU . BPS, and afm ... mine will start rev up to 3-4k then putt putt back to 1k then die out ... if i feather the gas it will stay running! ....

come on ppl whats the fix for this crap!? and what is an AWS?? i know what CAS and BAC and AFM and TPS is what is the AWS??? someone PLEASE call me today to give me some pointers!

WIll H.
216-702-3973

thanks!

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

did you put a turbo fuel pump relay in?
im waiting for mine, i bought it and now its in the mail.
im hoping itll fix the problem but i dont want to get my hopes up.
il let you know how it works out

kborro01

iTrader: (3)

AWS=All Weather Start.
On USDM t2's it's a solenoid that mounted on top of the UIM and has an electrical connector and a couple of water hoses. JDM don't use it, in fact where it would mount on the UIM there aren't even any holes drilled.