SEDUCE

hi guys what turbo would be best from this place listed below to run on a 13b. I am building the motor and having the rear housing bridge ported and front housing half bridge port, i am running a microtech LT10S.
I am using the car for drifting and everyday but i am not worried how it drives on the road i just want it good for drifting.
http://www.pcpa.com.au/index.php?mai...=index&cPath=1

it is going on a this manifold
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....ayphotohosting

LaSkt9

hope you dont plan on boosting much, i had one of those manifolds.... their quality is = to or < ****

SEDUCE

OH really why is that??

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

What are your power goals? Also I'm very unclear about your porting. Is this a half bridge or full bridge engine?

eage8

iTrader: (9)

that exhaust manifold is for an FD... not an FC, it won't fit. I also don't really trust ebay turbo manifolds... they tend to not hold up very well to the high rotary EGTs... But it's just a generalization, I have no experience with that particular manifold

and you'll want an externally wastegated turbo to fit that manifold

I would probably suggest the GT35R, but all those turbos have thrust bearings... not the ball bearing center housing that you would want... I would find a site that actually has some decent turbos.

Gremlin

So was I...(not that I'm very knowledgeable about it), but I think I figured it out...

half bridge + full bridge = 3/4 bridge.

SEDUCE

it is a bridge port but the front housing not as big so you don't have the full doughy- ness off the line.
I just want enough power to be a good drift car say 400 hp.
i was thinking about this turbo
http://www.pcpa.com.au/index.php?mai...&products_id=7

and that manifold is for a fc maybe its not the one in the pic but he does sell fd ones but this is the one for fc he said.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

it sounds to me like he's half bridging one rotor and full bridging the other... which sounds like a horrible idea to me... it's going to be a bitch to tune, for no apparent gains.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

if by "turbo housing" they mean the hot side, then .63AR is too small for a rotary, and like I said, get a ball bearing turbo, that's going to be too laggy (if you get an appropriately sized one)


it says FD all over it...

eage8

iTrader: (9)

http://www.atpturbo.com.au/

there is a place in Australia that sells the turbo you want. get a GT3582R (GT35R with an .82 turbo AR)

I'm sure there are other places in Australia that sell them...

Mr.FC3s

No


-kevin-

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Thats not going to work well with a bridge, even a half bridge. Sounds like he has a full bridgeport though.

If you're goal is only 400hp you shouldn't cut a bridge. None of those turbos listed will work well. A 60+mm turbo with at least a 1.15 will work fine. Don't skimp out and use a small exhaust system either. 3" is too small for a bridge.

SEDUCE

so a rear a/r housing of 1.15 ?
what about front housing?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

What 1Revvin7 said.

You are very confused as to how engines are bridgeported. There are half (end plates) and full (all plates) bridgeports. When you start cutting massively into the housing, that's a J-port. You can't apply two different ports to the same engine.

For 400HP, you're on the edge of what I would consider necessary for a bridgeport. A street port will do the job fine.

This depends a bit on the turbo, but bridgeported, you'll be looking at hotsides 1.06 or greater.

For a street port, .96 or 1.0 for those power levels is a good choice.

smokie

iTrader: (5)

i agree with arron....also you can always get your stock turbo upgraded for cheap and doing a good street port will get you to your 400 range

SEDUCE

i all ready have a hiflow s5 turbo on the car and with no compression on rear rotar it made 250hp at wheels but i want way more and also want the brap.