Ok, I'm getting my motor put together to drop into my 85 rx7. I have a bnr stage 2 series 5 turbo that I was trying to put on a series 4 turbo motor.

Big problem, the compressor side of the turbo is hitting the lower intake manifold as seen in this pic:







And this is preventing the turbo from bolting flush with the exhaust manifold as seen in this pic:






The only thing I can think of that MAY help is grinding the turbo down on the area marked here with black paint, it is the area around where one of the bolts go that is hitting:




Another thing I tried with no sucess was loosening all of the bolts around the turbo and turning (clocking) the turbo so that the outlet points more away from the engine but after loosening the bolts, I couldn't get it to turn, even with a mallet. Maybe there are teeth in it? I thought most turbos would turn easily after loosening the bolts. The other thing probably last option would be to get a small spacer block made to go between the turbo and manifold. Does anyone make one already?



Any other suggestions? I'm tring to get this engine installed this week!!!!!!

thanks

 

why dont you go get another exh manifold?

 

personally I would grind down the spot on the turbo. If youre not worried too much about how it will look.

I mean, you could grind just enough off and smoothen it out so it doesnt look like you did any grinding.

 

I had this problem when I upgraded to a bigger front cover too. I had to rotate the front cover so the outlet was pointing away from the engine more.

There should be 6 bolts to loosen on the backing plate, after these are loose, it should rotate freely.

I also ground a little bit off the knub that you marked. I can take photos for you when I get home if you wish.

 

or just put a mad gangster styles spacer inbetween those. just do what i do, get a spar computer, cut the case covers off, and then go to town.

 

Dude.... Are you doing a front mount???? If so.. Just clock the turbo counterclockwise si that bolt doesn't hit the manifold

It make no difference where the compressor output points other than to route the piping..

You'll have to cut and weld a piece into the actuator arm for the wastgate so that it kina loos like a streached out "z".. but.. i did it and it works great!!!!

Gimme a half an hour and i'll post a pic

 

Had the same problem, ended up buying a a different exhaust manifold.

 

Thanks for all of the ideas so far guys, I think clocking it is the way to go. I am using a front mount. I too was wondering about the wastegate arm once I can get the turbo clocked, any pictures you guys can post about how you did yours is mucho appreciated! If at all possible, I would like to stay away from an aftermarket exhaust manifold because I already have my down pipe and don't want to have to re-do oil and water lines.

I did try clocking it by loosening the six bolts and trying to hit the turbo outlet with a rubber mallet but this thing didn't budge. Do I have to take the bolts totally out, then pull out that section of the turbo, turn it and tap it back in? Is it that tight of a fit that I couldn't just spin it while it's still together?

Thanks for the help

 

Here is how my turbo sits now... note that the offending bolt now clears the LIM.. Barely!!!!!! You can see that the compressor housing has been clocked about 1/8 of a turn counterclockwise because the output now sits at the 10:30 position.

Just disconnect the actuator (take the two bolts out of the compressor cover and the pin out of the wastegate handle) loosen the rest of the bolts, then turn the turbo till the nut hump clears the LIM with the turbo mounted to the manifold and tighten two of the bolts..

Then take the turbo off, and re-position the actuator. you will probably have to cut and weld the arm.. You want to make the new arm length just a bit shorter than perfect to put some pre-load on the actuator spring (this is something i found out by accident and now Bryan suggests to do because it gives a quicker spool time)

Also.. make sure that the part comming off the wastegate handle is parralle with the centerline of the turbo shaft like it was in stock form.. this is necessary for proper movement of the arm.

I position the actuator, and the arm the way i wanted them, and then cut a long bolt down to the right size to fit into the gap, put a wet rag on the arm from actuator (to prefent heat transper to the diaphragm) and welded it in place!





Here you can see the modifications i made to the actuator arm... .... one of the welds is hidden by the heat shield......




Heres a diagram

 

I took the bolts clean out!!!

 

it shouldn't take much of a different clock to get it to fit fine, mine hit similarly and i only clocked it a tiny bit away from the intake manifold and it fits just fine.

 

Sweet, thanks for the lengthy write up and the pics! So I guess I need to take the bolts all the way out, then try clocking it cause that thing sure wouldn't budge with the bolts just loosened! I'll let you know how it turns out. I wonder if you could some how just lengthen the bracket that the wastegate is bolted to once it's clocked? Seems like it might be easier than cutting the rod? I'll have to take a look tomorrow.

 

you could also drill new mounting holes for the wastegate actuator, that's how i did it.

 

That would be cool, I think I may only need to clock it about 1/4 inch. I'll deffinately try to work on it tomorrow.

thanks

 

Damn I took all of the bolt out and tried to clock this sucker but it won't move! After closer inspection, it appears that when the turbo was put together, he put some of that gray rtv silicone in there and I think that's whats keeping it from moving. l need to get this situation under control. I even tried hitting the compressor with my rubber dead blow hammer and I can't seem to get it to budge.

 

ok, finally got that bugger loose! Now I will re-clock it then figure out a good way to do the wastegate.

 

if that doesnt work, just get the RB block/manifold spacer and lap it down if it makes the turbo stick out too far.

 

we have gotten hybrid stage 1, 2, 3 and 4 to all fit without the need of a spacer. no need, just a little clock work.

 

What??

Yeah that will work

 

I forget why... but there was some stupid reason i couldn't just drill new holes for the wastegate actuator...

BUT.. that would definately be easier than welding it.. and the straighter the rod the better..

 

Could you post some pics of how you did the bracket? I could see how I might be able to redrill one hole but to do a second hole, I think I would need a new bracket or to modify this one.

BTW, before clocking I did try grinding down the nub in question as well as the intake manifold but I couldn't get enough off. I'm scared to take it too far.

When I emailed Bryan at Bnr about the problem, here's what he said to do:


"Hey John.

I forgot to clearance the compressor housing for you. I am sorry to slip up, just got caught up and forgot. Reclock the housing back where it was and grind the compressor housing where it hits the lower. A belt sander works awesome, but a disc grinder will work well too. Just make sure when you grind to cover the oil in and out holes and blow out any particles that get in the compressor housing. If you don't feel comfortable doing the job, send the turbo back and I will cover the shipping and fix the problem. Again, I appologize."

 

my stage III from bnr fits because he just grinded down that part you marked in the first couple of pictures. Just grind that down and you will be good.

 

Do you grind it all the way down and not put a bolt in it?

thanks