Turbo glowing and terrible MPG's
06-26-09, 05:23 PM
#28
Don't drive the car if you randomly advanced the timing w/ the CAS. You still don't know if your problem is due to too much fuel or a lean condition, and advanced timing could blow the engine. It's not something to take lightly on a turbo. Just get a light and set it to stock timing.
06-27-09, 11:26 AM
#30
I very highly doubt the TPS is his problem, if you really suspect it, drive with the TPS disconnected (and the idle reset) and see if the symptoms reapear. I think you can set the timing without the light using the method in the FSM and be close enough. After I set the timing and use the gun to check it its usually set perfect and I don't have to make any changes. You can get it close enough wtihout a light to rule it out as a possible culprit.
06-27-09, 02:42 PM
#33
Becoming pure track...
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Was curious. Are these resistances? If these are resistances, I believe the plunger closed should be approx. 1k ohm. For A to B. Fully open should be 5k +- 1k.
So, it seems the idle or closed, is way too low. Adjust it so that the resistance is 1k OHM. And make sure you have the TPS disconnected from the rest of the system while setting it. Also, it should be adjusted while the car is hot.
06-27-09, 10:02 PM
#34
My Injector Is HUGE
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, I got a bit ahead of myself with all of the excitement!
Yes they are resistances, however the resistances at "Closed" are not "idle" resistances, I was just moving the plunger with my finger to get a range of what the TPS would show, I would assume that at actual idle position the TPS plunger would not be all the way closed.
??
Was curious. Are these resistances? If these are resistances, I believe the plunger closed should be approx. 1k ohm. For A to B. Fully open should be 5k +- 1k.
So, it seems the idle or closed, is way too low. Adjust it so that the resistance is 1k OHM. And make sure you have the TPS disconnected from the rest of the system while setting it. Also, it should be adjusted while the car is hot.
Was curious. Are these resistances? If these are resistances, I believe the plunger closed should be approx. 1k ohm. For A to B. Fully open should be 5k +- 1k.
So, it seems the idle or closed, is way too low. Adjust it so that the resistance is 1k OHM. And make sure you have the TPS disconnected from the rest of the system while setting it. Also, it should be adjusted while the car is hot.
06-27-09, 10:30 PM
#35
Becoming pure track...
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Usually at idle, the butterflies are closed and the TPS is set to that point. While idling, the car has an idle screw at the top that allows for air to get past the butterflies and adjust the air without needing to have the butterflies opened.
So, if you have the car completely warmed up. And, then just take a reading between A and B, you should see 1k Ohm. This is with the car turned off.
Hope you get it fixed. I also agree that it probably isn't a TPS problem.
So, if you have the car completely warmed up. And, then just take a reading between A and B, you should see 1k Ohm. This is with the car turned off.
Hope you get it fixed. I also agree that it probably isn't a TPS problem.
06-28-09, 11:11 PM
#36
My Injector Is HUGE
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I was able to borrow an Actron timing light from a friend.
First I worked on adjusting the idle so it would keep itself running, I reinstalled the thermowax coolant lines (I remembered why I took them out in the first place, that hose underneath the UIM is SUCH a B**CH!). Once I had done that, I warmed up the car and found that it wasnt quite capable of idleing, but I had a friend hold the RPM at 750, or at least close to it and hit it with the timing light. Needless to say, Neither of the timing marks on the pully showed up, So I pulled out the CAS and restabbed it, this time with the cover off so I could hold the gear in place as it slid into its little hole. At this point I also adjusted the idle hard stop screw and managed to get it to idle just a bit below 1000RPM.
I fired it back up and attempted to adjust the timing so that the "pointer" would line up with the 5* mark, but this is where my problems arise. The idle is a bit lopey and the timing seems to change a good bit, say 4-5 degrees? Not to mention the engine does a fair bit of shaking. However as the engine is rev'd up (went up to about 2kRPM) it seems to work correctly and change the timing so that the timing mark moves towards the passenger side (retarding the timing I believe). When the engine returns to the idle (900rpm), it takes a little while for the timing to settle out, but it isnt consistent, sometimes it ends up somewhere between the 2 timing marks on the pulley, but sometimes it still stays outside of the 2 marks. I know that it really should line up with the 5* mark, but I just cant get it to do so.
And an observation I also made, I still cant get the TPS to go to "one light" when the engine is off, But if the engine is RUNNING, then just one light DOES stay on, But as soon as i turn the engine off then turn ignition back on, the light goes off and there is nothing I can do to fix it.
Guess it is time for round 2 with the timing light tomorrow...any recommendations I should try? Would putting the BAC valve back on help out?
First I worked on adjusting the idle so it would keep itself running, I reinstalled the thermowax coolant lines (I remembered why I took them out in the first place, that hose underneath the UIM is SUCH a B**CH!). Once I had done that, I warmed up the car and found that it wasnt quite capable of idleing, but I had a friend hold the RPM at 750, or at least close to it and hit it with the timing light. Needless to say, Neither of the timing marks on the pully showed up, So I pulled out the CAS and restabbed it, this time with the cover off so I could hold the gear in place as it slid into its little hole. At this point I also adjusted the idle hard stop screw and managed to get it to idle just a bit below 1000RPM.
I fired it back up and attempted to adjust the timing so that the "pointer" would line up with the 5* mark, but this is where my problems arise. The idle is a bit lopey and the timing seems to change a good bit, say 4-5 degrees? Not to mention the engine does a fair bit of shaking. However as the engine is rev'd up (went up to about 2kRPM) it seems to work correctly and change the timing so that the timing mark moves towards the passenger side (retarding the timing I believe). When the engine returns to the idle (900rpm), it takes a little while for the timing to settle out, but it isnt consistent, sometimes it ends up somewhere between the 2 timing marks on the pulley, but sometimes it still stays outside of the 2 marks. I know that it really should line up with the 5* mark, but I just cant get it to do so.
And an observation I also made, I still cant get the TPS to go to "one light" when the engine is off, But if the engine is RUNNING, then just one light DOES stay on, But as soon as i turn the engine off then turn ignition back on, the light goes off and there is nothing I can do to fix it.
Guess it is time for round 2 with the timing light tomorrow...any recommendations I should try? Would putting the BAC valve back on help out?
06-28-09, 11:13 PM
#37
My Injector Is HUGE
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also, I've been looking into widebands, I'm a bit of a penny pincher when I get the opportunity, and I came across this, the JAW wideband, looks like a great little unit, but does anyone have any experience with it?
http://www.14point7.com/Widebands/JA.../JAW_1_041.htm
http://www.14point7.com/Widebands/JA.../JAW_1_041.htm
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
