Lynx

I have a 87 TII and i have a small ?. When ever i start the car when its totally cold it will make a puff of blue smoke and go away. Now if i drive it before the temp gauge has moved it stumbles alittle over 4000rpms. The main thing is that if i really jump on cold and let OFF the throttle it well beltch out alot of smoke. It dosent seem to do it when im on the throttle only when i rev it hard and let off. Really bad if im going down hill. No as soon as the temp needle moves EVERYTHING is gone i can nail it to redline drop the throttle or just rip through the gears and no smoke. Im getting 6-7 psi of boost (no-cats and mech boost gauge) and the car runs strong. The only other way i can get it to smoke is to rev it all the way up to or into redline while parked and let off the throttle it will smoke a little (engine at normal temp).

Lynx

Is it the Engine, Turbo, or another part?

Taranis

Don't know about turbos, but in n/a rotaries the ECU is programmed to run rich until the motor is up to operating temperature.

Also, because you have cast iron and aluminum working together, it would be in your best interest to let the car warm up properly before driving hard. Otherwise, you can easily warp a rotor housing which = bye-bye motor.

- JB

Icemark

This is surely the classic 3800 stumble...

hypntyz7

Yeah, no ****!! Dude, think about what youre doing. I work on cars for a living, and I can do it pretty quick when I have to. But I sure as HELL couldnt wake up, throw on some clothes, and go ripping into some engine swap or some **** at full speed and expect not to screw **** up, cause it takes a while to get all your stuff working right.

Hell, same for an engine. You shoudl NOT be taking the thing over about 4krpm until its fully warm. Hell, there's not really any reason to go WOT or boost much past 0 until its warm. You wont get full performance, even if its a new engine.

WHen people design an engine, they have to set up tolerances. These tolerances change a lot from cold to hot. They also determine the life and power of the engine. Since the engine spends 99% of its time hot, they set it up to run best this way, meaning its NOT gonna run well cold. Everythign is cold, retracted, ad loose inside, and it takes a few minutes for heat to build up and expand everythign together so it can work well and produce power smoothly.

IF your car doesnt smoke when it starts, it aint a rotary...if it doesnt smoke when it drives, you dont have a problem, IMO...

IWNTA20B

Uhhh...what are you doing going full throttle when the engine is still cold?? You are just asking for everything to excellerate wear. For one, it's normal to have a little smoke on start up. It'll clear up after a few seconds. If it doesn't, your rotor oil seals are going bad .
If it smokes when you get on boost and off boost, you have a leaking oil seal on the turbo.
You have to let it get to normal operating temperature before you rip around town.

IWNTA20B

Oh, and that stumble at 4000. It's actually around 3800 which is when the secondaries kick in. You need to add extra grounds which will help. I used a block from a stereo shop which you can attach 4 10 gauge wires to the battery. One went to the water pump housing, 2nd went to the block, 3rd went to the intake manifold and 4th went to the water pump housing.
The stumble is gone.

Josepi

Way to see if it's either.

Warm up car.
Get on a nice straight stretch of road, bring a friend, or have them follow you. Have them look out the window AS you are accelerating. If it smokes AS you are boosting, then the problem is most likely a seal in the turbo. Otherwise, the vote would goto the motor. BTW my 12A has bad oil seals on the inside of the motor and it smokes when I take my foot off at 6-7K. That motor is shot.