Well if you just go with the engine don't plan on putting down any serious power right now because you will put strain on the drivetrain, and things will eventually break, so until you can afford everything else i wouldn't rag on her too much, thats just my opinion.

 

Well right now im looking for a front clip so it should come with everything i should need to start out engine transmission ecu wiring harness and ect.

 

The T2 drivetrain is designed to handle up to 400hp. It's much stronger and tougher than what's in your 'vert. Like said, you push it you'll end up breaking something from the the flywheel on back. You really want to think about replacing the whole thing, tranny, driveshaft, rearend at some point.

 

Here, let me help make life much easier for you:
visit these 2 web addresses:
http://www.jdmenginedepot.com/catalo...products_id=62

http://www.jdmenginedepot.com/catalo...products_id=55

$1500 for a 13B-RE longblock
$1300 for a 13BT longblock

I definitely choose the 13B-RE over the 13BT anyday. I just put one in a 91 RX7 recently and I love the entire block and everything much more than the 13BT. I've built both and I've installed both, and I definitely would choose the 13B-RE anyday. If you're hellbent on having twin turbos, the 13B-RE has them, but just like the possible 3rd gen engine install (13B-REW), you will have a problem controlling the twins sequentially, so just have them run non sequential which is not hard to do at all. It basically makes both turbos spin at the same time constantly. Screw going with the 13B-REW. Don't even consider that option!! Trust me on that. Definitely not in a 2nd gen RX7. I had my buddy buy his 13B-RE from these guys and he was very pleased with it. If you have any other questions, feel free to message me.
Brian

 

Look for someone who doesn't know what he has. Picked up my TII for $300. Not running of coarse and the thing looked like a POS. But I got a trans, diff, harness, ECU, and 4-port 13Bt. Keep an eye on your local rags.

 

By the way, I HIGHLY suggest getting a standalone computer as well, such as a Microtech LT8. My friend is using that as well and it works awesome. If you don't then you have to mess with having an airflow meter which kills power, as well as all the bullshit 15 year old wiring and making everything work with the stock computer. Trust me on this, just get a standalone and get rid of that old wiring harness!! It will save you sooo much headache and will only cost you $800 for it. Money VERY well spent!! Do it once and do it right!! Oh yeah, don't even bother with getting a front clip whatsoever!! A complete waste of time, money, and space. The longblock comes with EVERYTHING!!!
Brian

 

BTW, where do you live??

 

One last thing: It doesn't state which series the 13BT is. There is a series 4 (86-88) and a series 5 (89-92). The series 4 had 8.5:1 compression rotors and the series 5 had 9:1 compression rotors. There are quite a few differences as well between these 2. A few I can remember are: the series 4 had a 28 lb. flywheel and the series 5 had like a 21 lb. flywheel, where the dowel pins seat in the rear end housing, the casting is much thicker on the series 5 and there have been reports of this cracking or breaking on the series 4, the series 4 rotors are heavier, the series 4 rotor housings have a slightly different spark plug placement (the space between the leading and trailing but they fixed the placement in the series 5 and on. That's all I can think of right now. So, to me, obviously the series 5 is better. What I'm saying is that I don't know if you'll be getting the series 4 or series 5 13BT. I personally don't like the series 4 whatsoever. Hopefully, that is not what they are selling, because if that's what it is, I would not bother getting it. That's just my 2 cents though. Take it as you wish.
Brian

 

I'm doing the swap right now. It costed me $1500 shipped for the 13b-re. I got a t2 tranny for $200, you can get a stock flywheel off a t2 in a junk yard (or if your car is a t2 you dont even have to worry about that) and you can get a clutch. You dont have to get a lsd but it is better. You can use the stock t2 ecu and wiring harness (I've seen it done plenty times) until you can afford a standalone. And you can find a good front mout and plumbing for a reasonable price (and in my personal opinion you need a front mount either way you go unless you wanna hit stock boost levels and you dont plan on upgrading anything, ever.) I feel that a 13b-re is a better buy, because even though its a little more expensive to get set up initially, I have seen people hit 500hp on stock internals on their daily drivers. I dont even need that much hp.

 

If you can't afford the drive train, how in the world were you expecting to put a 13BREW in ???

This is a dreamer thread

 

www.jspecautosports.com

 

lol. So true, but harsh... I have no place to talk though. Since I am poor, for the past few years I have been working on other people's cars and saving to sup my car. I finally saved enough and it feels good to go on this buying binge.... Even though all my family members are telling me that I should have bought a new car with the money that I am spending on the13b-RE swap and my body kit that I'm planning to buy.

 

hahaha....just so u know....the NA tranny will not hold up to forced induction, when u get a t2 tranny..look for starter and everything else....the rear end on a NA will not fit a t2 tranny.....u'll need to get that too

 

Actually, t2 tranny can bolt up to a NA rear end easily w/ a NA=>t2 driveshaft which plenty members in this forum have for sell for around $100.

 

How is this possible?
How do you plumb in the AFM on a Cosmo 13B-RE?


-Ted

 

why doesn't he just work on making his na faster, point him in that direction.

1 take the engine out
2 do pineapple racing 5+6 port inserts
3 paint everything with por15(i'm using tbird red and silver)
4 reinstall engine
5 install a new clutch and pressureplate while you are at it
6 do a 89 intake swap with vdi

and go NA ALL THE WAY


i'm doing all this now except i have a crack
in my front cover and a bad front rotor housing : )

 

american verts dont come with turbo's do they? **** man i dont know how much it costs to import cars in america but jdm verts come with turbo's thers 1 on prestige motor sport at the moment with 60thou miles and mods that would cost me about 6000 u.s to import and register sell your na and import 1

 

I know its my first post and all just been reading the fourms for a week or so now but anyway I've got a 1988 fc I'm going to have the guys out at pineapple racing in cali build me a 20b, expect to see posts in November would be earlier but I'll be in boot->mct->mos school till then.

 

Thank you for sharing your pipe dream...

Stop threadjacking!



-Ted

 

I dont know. Like I said, I've seen it done. I myself am shelling out the $1k for a microtech. Also, I just got my engine in. It seems good. I did the poor mans comp. test and I heard strong loud gusts of air (note that I didnt even take off the turbos or manifold) from the downpipe. I think SunRiseJapanese has another loyal buyer...

 

http://www.motivefab.com/product_inf...1413091fb0baa5

For mounts ^ for an REW.

 

Damn... I wish I would have known about that before I paid for the 13b-RE. Anyone wanna buy a cosmo engine w/ 45k miles on it? Only $1200. lol. j/k. Seriously, thats pretty kewl. Now a 13b-REW bolts in easily. That will definitely be my next project.

 

I can see from here that those mounts would be questionable. Do you see how bad the welds are on them???



Maybe you would trust your engine mounted with them... I would not. I mean look at those welds alone. This is their part that they are showing to sell and there are welds that look worse than my 12 year old daughter makes when she is just playing around.

 

They do look sloppy. But if they hold, who cares.... I have been googling trying to find some pics or vids of people who used them... but nothing.

 

If the weld looks that sloppy, I'd bet even money that they look even worse inside of the joints.

Again I wouldn't even try them, well alone test them.

Toss in that the joints don't even match up... yeah they must be safe