Okay guys im learning this car, i've been reading a few threads here and there and have visit a few sites such as www.fc3s.org

What i would like to know is what makes the 13bt engine tick and produce more power, as well as normal maintentance intervals and the like.

Here are a few specs that are on a particular car that im trying to help on.

*Full Racing Beat Turboback
*Racing Beat Plugs
*Racing Beat FCD
*Blitz BOV

Some issues on the car right now is smell of oil, the diff mount clunks everytime its shifted, the coolant meter on the center console beeps endlessly when the car starts, the passenger electronic window does not go down other then the driver controlling it on its side, need to tighten the bolts on the downpipe. a new thermostat, a new oil pump (?), shifter is very loose.....

So far what i do plan is probably a Koyo Radiator with Samco silicone hoses and new thermostat. Change the Diff Mount, fix the various electronics in the car (IE windows). add a short shifter...

What else should i be concentrating on? as for boosting, im aware that stock boost is at 5-6lbs of psi? (Correct me if im wrong) what is it capable of with stock turbo, full turboback, FCD, and some form of an Intake (i dont really beleive in intakes other then panel filters, I personally drive a 2004 Cobb Stage 2 Impreza WRX and in my case a panel filter is suffiecient up till 300bhp, this case is different since its a totally different car, school me rotorary guys\gals)? So what is a safe point to boost at? and what setting with AFR?

As for Engine management, i have been looking at the Apexi FC, rather pricy but looks like the king of the crop in terms of tuning the FC/FD, but right now i may just go with a Boost controller and maybe a AFR controller (keep in mind i would rather get the Apexi FC, but its the funds....)

My main point is i want to create an efficient light tune car, i would appreciate all the help i can get to achieve this....

Thanks,
Eiji

 

Clean the passenger window switch, take it off and open it up. It will work perfect afterwards.

Get under the car and figure out what is up with the diff.

Check your coolant sensor, bleed air out of the system.

REWIRE YOUR FUEL PUMP. Its almost a garantee that your fuel pump is not seeing full votage. Mods= boom without a rewired fuel pump.

YOU MUST PORT YOUR WASTEGATE. boost creep like crazy will happen.

Radiator and hoses aren't essential.

I've seen 275 hp 300tq to the wheels with the stock turbo. It wasent gonna last long though.

at a relativly safe boost of 12 (5.5 stock) psi on the stock turbo you could see around 230-240 at the wheels and run mid 13's on street tires. That is with all the bolt ons you plan on getting.

Im not a guru on EMS but the power FC and haltec are popular around here.

 

I have a question regarding the shifter in my car , a couple of people told me that its loose, it kinda rattles when pressing on the accelerator and basically its not sitting still. So if i was going fast unless im holding the shifter it will make some annoying sound, please tell me what can i do to tighten it or somehow???

 

Hey, not my thread but since you mention boost creep, what kinda creep are people getting on completely stock setup running stock boost and up to 8psi? Can a ported WG keep this down while not running very much over stock?

d86: Pop the stick surround off and see if any of the bolts on the brass or whatever plate are loose. I have the same problem but tightening those fixed it for a while. now I think I'm driving around with little oil in the tranny so it's completely dry and all clickety again. While you have it open pull the stick and pour some fluid in the stick whole, that'll help and you're supposed to put some in there anyway.

 

re shifter:
go to mazdatrix website and order new upper and lower shifter bushings. Cheap and easy fix.

 

wow thanks 13bpower! as for rewiring the fuel pump how can i achieve this? and where can i find a good short shifter (so far i know where to look for bushings, thanks kick7ca) thanks?

 

pretty much every part you will find at mazdatrix.com

 

your coolant buzzer is going off bc the sensor probably isn't grounded...an easy fix with any decent manual for the car (the FSM is your best friend). If you plan 10+ psi at all on the stock ECU without injectors then please get a higher flowing fuel pump, walbros are nice and cheap. the sloppy shifter is your shifter bushings that are shot, as said before mazdatrix is a good place for these. a panel filter is a good idea without additional fuel upgrades, an open element and decent turbo inlet duct will toast your motor in no time on a stock fuel system.

 

ill check these things today...

ill look into the fuel pump and the injectors, what size and type should i consider?