2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Tune-Up Time!

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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 02:48 PM
  #1  
marshall13B's Avatar
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From: Marysville, Wa
Tune-Up Time!

Okay, so for your regular tune up, what do you use for;

Oil (and weight):

Oil Filter:

Air Filter:

Fuel Filter:

Spark Plugs (And Wires):

O2 Sensor:

Fuel System Treatment?:

Engine Treatment?:

Anything else I missed, or anything you usually do every tune up and why:
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 05:53 AM
  #2  
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From: Charlottesville, VA
You might get flamed on this one as tune up preferences have been discussed many times on this forum as a search would reveal. As for me
Castrol GTX 10W-30 winter, 20W-50 Summer
Purolator Pure 1 oil filter
Purolator drop in air filter
Fuel filter and O2 sensor - whatever they sell at Advance Auto
NGK Plugs 2 leading 2 trailing
My plug wires are a set of 8.5's from Mazdatrix
I never use oil or gas treatments, but I do the water trick once a year
Don't forget to check and adjust timing. Don't forget to set and adjust the TPS and the idle speed.
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 06:56 AM
  #3  
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From: Mile High
-Castrol GTX 10w/30
-Mazda OEM
-custom intake w/ K&N, clean if necessary
-Mazda OEM
-NGK BUR7/9EQ, wires are NGK OEM
-Bosch generic from Pep Boys
-No other "treatments"

-Flush/bleed hydraulics (brake and clutch)
-Transmission/diff...RedLine synthetic
-Drain/flush coolant- replace with 50/50 of whatever's on sale
-Replace belts- had good luck with Goodyear Gatorbacks

-checked TPS/timing when I bought her, in the two years and 30k miles since then haven't touched it since she runs fine.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 02:12 AM
  #4  
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Originally Posted by clokker
-Castrol GTX 10w/30
-Mazda OEM
-custom intake w/ K&N, clean if necessary
-Mazda OEM
-NGK BUR7/9EQ, wires are NGK OEM
-Bosch generic from Pep Boys
-No other "treatments"

-Flush/bleed hydraulics (brake and clutch)
-Transmission/diff...RedLine synthetic
-Drain/flush coolant- replace with 50/50 of whatever's on sale
-Replace belts- had good luck with Goodyear Gatorbacks

-checked TPS/timing when I bought her, in the two years and 30k miles since then haven't touched it since she runs fine.
.I'm with the Clokk-Man on this one...and don't forget the Thermostat(important) ..Mazda OEM only..Stants are Garbage.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 12:01 PM
  #5  
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From: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Oil (and weight): Castrol GTX, use the weight as shown in the factory service manual for the corresponding ambient temperature in your region. I also like the Fumoto oil drain valve (F-106 non-nipple) as a replacement for the outdated drain plug and its silly crush washer.
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

Oil Filter: Mazda filter. Replace the two oil filter pedestal o-rings every 50,000 miles or so. These crack over time and leak oil on the lower heater hose, causing it to deteriorate and create a very annoying pinhole leak that is really difficult to locate.

Air Filter: K&N drop-in, good for 10 years or a million miles. For engines with over 200bhp, a K&N cone filter and custom intake are a good idea.

Fuel Filter: Doesn't really matter

Spark Plugs (And Wires): NGK plugs, No preference on wires.

O2 Sensor: Doesn't really matter

Fuel System Treatment?: Bullshit. Just use Top Tier gas.
http://www.toptiergas.com/

Engine Treatment?: More bullshit. I used Microlon with what appeared to be good results, but I can't necessarily say that the good condition of the engine was significantly affected by the product any more than regular oil changes of Castrol GTX and regular changes of coolant.

Anything else I missed, or anything you usually do every tune up and why:

Coolant - Always use distilled water with the coolant mix. Tap water has minerals which will coat the inside of the cooling system, reducing the cooling capability. See the factory service manual for the proper mix. Most people use 50/50, which is actually wrong for most regions in the US. FYI water is what carries away heat, while the coolant just keeps it from freezing and has lubricant and anti-corrosive properties.

Brake Fluid - ATE Super Blue / Type 200 Amber: Racing performance you can use on the street, affordable pricing.

Manual transmission/Differential - Use synthetic oil in manual transmissions and differentials to increase efficiency and make shifting smoother. The long fluid change interval makes it worth the extra money, unlike engine oil. I like Red Line, but other brands are fine. See the service manual for oil weight.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 12:04 PM
  #6  
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Oil (and weight): Castrol Tection Extra 15W40 in the summer Castrol GTX 10W30 in the winter. Every 3000 miles for Turbos, and 5000 miles for non turbos.

Oil Filter: OEM

Air Filter: K&N (aftermarket intake) or Foam Air (OEM panel filter replacement). Both are re-usable forever.

Fuel Filter: Napa

Spark Plugs : Cheap= NGK BUR7/9EQ or Expensive= NGK RE7CL/BUR9EQP. (note the RE7CL needs to be re-gapped to .030 when using on a FC)
(And Wires): Jacobs

O2 Sensor: Bosch 11027

Fuel System Treatment?: 2 bottles of Chevron Techron every 8th Tank, 6 oz premix every tank except the one with the Techron fuel cleaner.

Engine Treatment?: No... no point, waste of money.

Brake/clutch fluid: replaced every 2 years with new Castrol LMA

Coolant Replace with Prestone Extended life (not Prestone 50/50) and distilled and deionized water every two years; set at a 50/50 ratio of anti freeze to water.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 06:10 PM
  #7  
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From: Santa Barbara, CA
dunzow^ enough said, thread should be closed after Icemark.. lol
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