slpin

iTrader: (9)

well, i tried starting it today
cycled thru 2 batteries.... seriously

anyways, at the end, i got it to sputter a little, sometiems once every few rotations, sometimes twice... but well, the battery died and after a while when i try it again, i guess the engine flooded itself and it wont start

weird thing was, when it was flooded and when i try to check for sparks, sometimes it will have spark, sometimes it wont... i used the timing light to check for sparks

after cranking, i also heard alot of little water leak noises, guess i need a new thermostat housing too, ontop of the radiator cap

heh this engine is pretty gone!

so, where do you think i shoudl start tomorrow? taking off the intake??

i did manage to get the whole engine compartment to smell like gas - which made me want to stop............... and yes, that was after egi and removing sparkplugs and adding atf...

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

whats your compression at?

Parastie

Compression check should be first.
If the compression is 80+ on both rotors, then the block is probably okay.
I would then check to see if there is fuel.
Then spark.
Then Air.

Although, you can check that in whatever order you want, just make sure compression check is first.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

alright, i will give compression a test tomorrow
it is definately getting fuel, there is more fumes than a gas station
spark, i hooked up a timing light - sometimes the light would blink, sometimes it wont, is it all the fluid on the plug making it not able to spark?
the motor needs to be torn down anyways... it keep sblowing bubles into the coolant system... i just want one drive in the car before i tak eit apart though!!! he he he

BlaCkPlaGUE

How cold out was it?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you are probably leaking coolant into the combustion chamber, water is easier to burn than coolant is so you could try removing the coolant and adding straight water but this could damage your internals because straight water tends to rust parts faster. this all depends on whether you plan on rebuilding your current motor or throwing a different one in there. if you are going to rebuild this one then i would sit out the last road test if i were you, you could cause more damage than you think.

if your seals are blow bad enough you will lose compression into the cooling system and leak coolant into the combustion chamber, making it almost impossible to get the engine to start, i would follow the procedures to store an engine with blown coolant seals unless you plan on pulling it out right away.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

about 50-60 degrees
i have a s4 and s5, i am going to swap the s4 bottom and the transmission over, then s5 front cover and the top end... hope it is as easy as it says!
with the s5 out, i think i will slowly learn to rebuild the motor...

i think the seals might be THAT bad... :/