when the engine is idling it will make a Bearing noise but it will go away when you step on the clutch pedal and it has had this noise since i bought it but i just want know if it is any of the bearings.

 

My 86 base model with 182,000 makes the same noises. However it dosn't completly go away with the clutch pedal in. The noise is very loud with the engine at 3000rpm and the clutch out.

Pilot bearing?


James

 

I have the same problem with my 90 GTU and it didn't seem to get any better when I put a new clutch in and changed the throw-out bearing and the pilot bearing... might just be the tranny internals?

-Coop-

 

Those are your primary problems. Pilot bearing and throw out bearing. Make sure you grease them WELL
and also, lacy i've heard of people having the same problem as you...all it does is just take time. For everythin to settle

 

might be the tranny. Cause when i blew mine it was HARSHLY loud, so i bought a new one

 

i think it might be my transmission because the clutch was changed not that long ago and the bearings to but it does make that noise when you are driving like in 1st gear at high rpms i think 2nd too

 

Sound like the transmission bearings to me. (with the clutch released, no foot on the pedal, the pilot bearing rotates at the same speed as the trans) could be the throw out bearing but I think you ruled that out.

My car made a similar sound. Was worse when it was cold out side. Rebuilt the trans and replaced all the main bearings. NO more noise.

 

how much did it cost to get your transmission rebuilt

 

Have you tried changing the gear oil? Puting in synthetic gear oil will buy you some time while you save up for the rebuild. I have been running on a tranny that should have been dead 2 years ago..
Bill

 

That should be the case, but in my case, my tranny took a **** when I changed the gear oil. I went to dexron or something...I can't remember now. Anyway, I rebuilt the tranny and now it's good to go.

 

i have redline oil in it

 

Seems like it was around $300 or less. Did all the work myself. Was a year ago and 3,000 miles. I was thinking this morning on the drive in that it shifts wonderfully.

 

Where did you order the parts? Was it a rebuild kit?


James

 

i had those noises got it rebuilt cool for a summer and a little now its back. i put synthetic in and two tubes of bearing noise eliminator type stuff and it quieted it down qiute a bit, when its warm its not as bad but still annoying as hell.

 

Does 4th gear make the same noise as all the other gears? If no, the noise will be your out put shaft bearings. 4th gear should be quite compared to the other gears, power is transmitted strait through the trans to the rear wheels.

 

No it's not! It's two gears just like all the others, with a 1:1 ratio.

 

I bought the bearings and most of the seals from a bearing supplier (cheaper than the dealer). Bought the rest of the seals and lock nuts from the dealer (you could get it all from them if you want). I hosed up and ruined the threads on the main shaft (bough a new one $70 of the $300). The sycro rings met the specs for thickness but had a ridge worn in them which kept them from engaging fully. Smoothed the ridge out with emery paper. You could buy new but the smoothed out old ones will work the same.

If you are a good mechanic you can rebuild a transmission. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.

 

bump

 

you can hear the noise in 1st,2nd,3rd gear too

 

Thaniel...

What tools do you need for this? And are they Mazda required or can I get them elsewhere?

Next tranny is going to be rebuilt by me, I can't afford to have it done by someone else.

PaulC

 

I just did a tranny rebuild. Guy sold me one and said it worked fine but it didn't. Got it apart and found that the 1/2 shift fork was broken in half.

Special tools. The manual says you need a special tools for:
1>holding the output shaft splines in a vice to prevent damage but I found that a piece of cardboard and a rag inbetween the output shaft and the vice jaws worked fine.
2> removing the locknut that holds the cotter pins into the dynamic damper. Mazda dealer said about $150 and 3 months shipping by boat! $10 pipe wrench worked great. You can't get a torque reading with a pipewrench but I just cranked the hell out of it and called it good.
3> tube wrench for removing a recessed locknut on the mainshaft. I converted 41mm (caliper reading on the nut) to english units and then bought a big socket. I then cut the connecting bit where the socket connects off with a dremmel, roughed up the surface of the remaining socket with a dremel grinder so the pipewrench could get grip and took the nut off that way. Same problem as above with no torqueing capability but you just keep tightening and you'll feel the locknut seat and you won't be able to tighten anymore.
4> H-puller for removing the bearing that's about 1/2 down on the mainshaft. I got a good 2 claw jaw puller and then bought two 16" pieces of steel and drilled holes into them every 4 inches or so and bolted the jaws of the puller into the holes that allowed the correct fit. Don't get a cheap jaw puller for this as you will need to REALLY crank on it to get the bearing off. Also get some good thickness steel bars otherwise they will bend on you from the tension and slide off the bearing. Removing this bearing (and putting it back on) were a BITCH as it's VERY tight on the main shaft. This required putting hard pulling pressure on the bearing and then hitting it with a hammer to get it to budge off bit by bit. I used a piece of pipe and a big hammer to get the bearing on with a big washer to distribute the contact impact across the front of the bearing.

Just some suggestions.

My tranny feels really smooth and tight right now but I've only had it in the car for about 4 days now. Time will tell.

Hope this helps you some.

 

Mine is a N/A trans to I don't have a dynamic damper to worry about. I didn't need any Mazda special tools. I did have to buy one extra large box end wrench to get the lock nut off the main shaft. (becareful prying up the staked part that locks it on the shaft and lock the trans in 1st and rev).

Other than that just standard tools, bearing pullers, feeler gauges etc. I did buy some strap metal to lengthen the arms on my bearing puller (similar to marcusparkus) to get some of the bearings off the main shaft. I used a 3 jaw puller and had no problem. As far as putting the bearings back on, I heated the bearings inner races and slid (yes slid) them back on. Got to do this quickly because the cool quick and once they cool it is back to hammering or pulling it back off.

Couple of extra tips. Label all parts with a marker and which direction the fit on (front back) keep small parts together in a pastic bag and lable where they go. Smooth all seal surfaces, gear gones and sycronizers. Time spent here will really determin how good a job you do.

It was much easier than I thought it would be. Probably not the repair for a Novice but for someone who works on there car normally, no problem.

 

heating up the bearing race is a great idea. Wish I'd thought of it. How did you do it?

-Mark

 

Carefully Heated the inner race a little with a propane blow torch (while holding the bearing with plyres). Took only about 10-20 sec with the torch then quickly slip it on.

 

Thaniel where did you buy the bearings because i am going to rebuild mine