ok swapped my bad tps...
no more check engine light! no more code 12!

when i put the new (to me.. in spec) one in, i got the car hot, and set the narrow idle (pins a+b i believe, i did it per FSM) to 1k ohms.

next day warming up to leave for work, bouncing idle at warmup.
went to work, came home after, got it nice and hot, checked the narrow idle it was at .8k ohms. set it to 1k. . . got it hot, checked, its at .9k... set it to 1k again, went inside watched a movie. came out, started up and let it get warm, idle bounced only once and not badly at all while it was warming

how many times do i check and set it until its right on?

s5 n/a btw

 

So? What's the problem? The book says the narrow range should be b/t 0.8 to 1.2Kohms.

The book also says the ECU has a TPS auto adjust feature. Seems like its smart enough to handle anyting b/t .8 and 1.2K ohms.


Personally I'd go the Control Unit page and set the output to the figures given for the Narrow and Full range tps,.

 

While doing the test and adjustment I have noticed that when I adjust the TPS till one light was on at 1K Ohm the engine would run fine while at idle, but once I brought the RPMs to near 2,000 RPM the engine would bounch as if there was a rev limiter untill I press the gas some more and then it would be fine. This problem would really give you a whip lash if you drove it like this. To Cure this problem, turn the ignition to ON, put a jumper wire in the idle initial set connector, 2 prong connector near LEADING ignition coil, for a couple seconds and the pull it out and start the car and the problem should be gone.
-- from http://www.racingrotary.com/tps.htm (even though the lamp method is crap)
That might be your problem as well.

 

I read through the linked page, and the remedy to MY problem is the one ALL the way at the bottom, in red text....

Kind of cryptic...

Where the heck is this plug that he's talkin about??/

 

When I set the TPS it wont keep the same setting...
I set it to be something like 1014, blip the throttle then it goes to like 934, blip it again its at 970, blip again its at 1020...
Faulty TPS or is it still ok since its in about the range of 800 to 1200?

 

You got the TPS setting OK.
What you have is a vac leak, so something holding the throttle too far open like a mis-adjusted fast idle cam.

At idle the TPS is telling the ECU the throttle is closed.
After warm up, if anything holds the idle speed above 1500RPM the ECU gives a fuel cut.
You get zoom zoom zoom (like the mazda ads.)


Warm it up, reset the idle screws, then reset the TPS.

 

reset idle screws to WHAT? ive been hunting for months... what are the factory settings??