was playing with 86 n/a and dissconnected the tps. car started to bog out. re attached sensor and now car is flooded with fuel. let sit and now won't turn over at all. bad sensor? messed up fuel system??

 

The motor doesnt turn at all?

 

Pull the plugs, dry 'em off, yada yada...Perform the deflooding procedures, in other words

 

from what i've read, if you disconnect the TPS and the car isn't affected, then you worry.
honestly, though, its real easy to do a basic test on a TPS. and since yours is an S4, you only have the Narrow Range to test. the ohm test if very simple, but there's volt specs, too.

and for what its worth, a new TPS is ~$375; maybe it would be best to be stubborn and look at the most expensive things last. and dont replace things unless you know they need to be replaced.

for instance, my water thermosensor was showing full volts (4.99v). i'm used to an open circuit showing 0v, but i assumed the thermosensor starts at 5v and goes down from there (via resistance; i assume). anyways, i bought a new sensor ($40) from mazda and went to replace it. well, i noticed one of the connectors inside had been pushed back and i guess wasnt making contact. i asked the guy before i bought the part if i could return it if unused, and he said 'yes' which is why i bought it. luckily i can take that part back. no clue what i'm gonna get for $40, though.

 

pulled plugs out and that stuff then tried it again. the car turns over but won't start. plugs were extremely dirty. curoius if i detonated..

 

you didnt detonate on startup.
funny story, my engine went out on me at startup. it had been dying, though. finally the seal let loose and made its way through my engine. gouged itself into my housing and did some mess to my rotor.
nonetheless, you didnt detonate. you can idle your car and lean it until it dies, its not gonna blow up.
if you want to know if your TPS is bad, you can test it.

 

That doesn't sound very funny to me, lol...

Read the green wire to ground with the key on (plug connected out on the TPS), just backprobe the plug...Should get somewhere around 1 1/2 volts, if the fast idle cam is doing its thing. If she's warm, should be about 1v. You can also read the brown/white wire to ground with the key on, should be about 5v. When you pulled the TPS connector, I have a feeling that the ECU went to 100% throttle signal and flooded you BAD, so keep on trucking with any creative deflooding procedures you may have. For what it's worth, I find that injecting a little oil into the rotor housings after removing & drying the plugs, and mashing the peddle to the floor while cranking, seems to be the only way my car starts after a bad flood. Which I haven't had in quite a while now, and that's a good thing, lol...