Hi all, my car is acting really hard to drive, I cant seem to get the TPS set correctly something seems weird. I have done it before, where I got it to read 1 K ohm at rest on a warm engine and then 5k ohm when floored.

Anyways I got it set for 1k ohm at rest but then when I floor it it goes to .5k ohm .... kinds confused.....

any ideas?


(my problem is like if I stay like in first or second gear and just barely touch the gas pedel it will launch hard and then when u let go of the gas pedel it will stop hella hard without the brake, causing the car to bounce violently. ... I had the problem with my old dynamic chamber but I got rid of that one with the new engine and this one is acting very weird. )

 

Replace the TPS. My car did that whole bucking thing, too, until I replaced it. Resetting did nothing. Scan the For Sale section or even post there, chances are someone's got a gem.

 

Sounds like your tps needs adjustment.
Setting the TPS
Making a LED code checker (about halfway down the page)

Hope this helps.

 

Make sure your not checking the wrong wires because then you can get a backwards reading.

 

Ok, well I figured out what I Was doing I THINK. I still had the TSP plugged in when I did the readings so thats why it was going 1, and then would go lower when pushed down. ANYWAYS

Now I got it set to .999k ohm at rest and goes to 4.65 at WOT. But Im STILL getting ... like jerkyness "bucking" thing.

It cant be the TPS, becuase its set perfectly, and is a smooth 1k ohm up. When I set it to .8 it seems to be a little more smooth but still there.

Could I have a vac leak that could be causing this?
On the back of my engine I have a little white plastic thing that sounds like its leaking or sucking in air... but it looks like its supposed to do that. It has 2 vac lines plugged into it. Whats it for?

 

I believe you're talking about the water thermo valve and water thermo wax assembly - that could actually cause bucking if it's not working, because it (the thermo valve) deals with the double throttle plates (see training manual page 4-26). All of its lines should be plugged in, and its coolant passage should be free of build-up.

FYI the GV site has a community-maintained diagnostics plug page as well in the CSM; check under "Fuel and Emissions" -> "Diagnostics Plug":
http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...=118&co=1&vi=1