TPS adjustment with multimeter, S5 N/A
03-15-08, 05:59 PM
#1
TPS adjustment with multimeter, S5 N/A
I've searched and its frustrating searching about this just because of the difference in S4 and S5 TPS's and the different methods of doing this. I purchased a new TPS because it was throwing a CEL and had hesitation b/w 7-8000rpm. I inserted the (+) from my DMM into the green/red wire on the TPS connecter through the back. Then I stuck the (-) onto the negative battery terminal for a ground. I adjusted the fast idle adjustment screw so it reads 1.0 DC volts at idle. At WOT it sweeps to 5. I have read that it is unnecessary to adjust the upper plunger.
Was this the correct way of doing this? Theres no more hesitation and the car pulls great. I want to keep the LED method a last resort because I don't feel like getting a grocery list together and going to radioshack when I have a multimeter.
Thanks for the help
Was this the correct way of doing this? Theres no more hesitation and the car pulls great. I want to keep the LED method a last resort because I don't feel like getting a grocery list together and going to radioshack when I have a multimeter.
Thanks for the help
03-15-08, 07:02 PM
#2
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Page FI-53 adjusts the TPS using the LED method.
Page Fi_53 INSPECTS the TPS using an ohm meter with the TPS disconnected from the EM harness. It says the NARROW range should read 0.8 K ohm to 1.2 K ohms with the throttle closed (engine fully HOT), and should read 4.0 K ohms to 6K ohms with the throttle fully open.
Then it has you check the FULL range. It should read 0.6 to 0.8 K ohms closed and read 3.4 to 5.1 K ohms fully open throttle.
If you look at page FI-80, Control System, you'll see that with a fully HOT engine, the output of the NARROW range should read approx 1 vdc at idle (green/red wire).
Same page, FULL RANGE tps output at idle should read approx 0.8 vdc. I forget the wire color. Pin 2G on the ECU or you can backprobe the TPS's connector itself like you did for the green/red wire.
If you had a output of approx 1vdc for the NARROW range, then it should not kick a code. Now go do the same for the FULL range wire on that connector and be satisfied.
Are you still getting a TPS fault? What number code.
Page Fi_53 INSPECTS the TPS using an ohm meter with the TPS disconnected from the EM harness. It says the NARROW range should read 0.8 K ohm to 1.2 K ohms with the throttle closed (engine fully HOT), and should read 4.0 K ohms to 6K ohms with the throttle fully open.
Then it has you check the FULL range. It should read 0.6 to 0.8 K ohms closed and read 3.4 to 5.1 K ohms fully open throttle.
If you look at page FI-80, Control System, you'll see that with a fully HOT engine, the output of the NARROW range should read approx 1 vdc at idle (green/red wire).
Same page, FULL RANGE tps output at idle should read approx 0.8 vdc. I forget the wire color. Pin 2G on the ECU or you can backprobe the TPS's connector itself like you did for the green/red wire.
If you had a output of approx 1vdc for the NARROW range, then it should not kick a code. Now go do the same for the FULL range wire on that connector and be satisfied.
Are you still getting a TPS fault? What number code.
03-15-08, 07:25 PM
#3
Ah, ok. So what screw should I use adjust the full range? Is it the small screw with the nut around it? I have the haynes FSM and I couldn't find the TPS in the index.
The car runs great now I was just making sure I did it right. No code and pulls smoothly to redline.
The car runs great now I was just making sure I did it right. No code and pulls smoothly to redline.
03-15-08, 07:55 PM
#4
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Got me. I've only series four cars.
IF it is approx 0.8vdc, it should be good. Talking Full range.
The series five FSM mentions self adjusting in the words on the above pages.
IF it is approx 0.8vdc, it should be good. Talking Full range.
The series five FSM mentions self adjusting in the words on the above pages.
03-16-08, 08:17 AM
#6
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The FULL range wire would have been BLACK/GREEN in color, so you could just backprobe it like you did the GREEN/RED of the narrow band.
The words about self adjust are these from the FSM: ...there is a throttle position auto-adjusting system in the engine control unit.
As to how that works.....got me. But if your reading approx one volt on the narrow range and reading approx 0.8 vdc on the Full range with the engine HOT, then all should be well. If it keeps kicking a code, then it could be a intermittent in one or the other TPS plungers in mid range of the plungers.
The words about self adjust are these from the FSM: ...there is a throttle position auto-adjusting system in the engine control unit.
As to how that works.....got me. But if your reading approx one volt on the narrow range and reading approx 0.8 vdc on the Full range with the engine HOT, then all should be well. If it keeps kicking a code, then it could be a intermittent in one or the other TPS plungers in mid range of the plungers.
03-16-08, 04:14 PM
#7
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S5 FSM TPS Voltage Specs
Just some FSM info from the FSM about TPS Adjustment methods with voltage specs. This info was originally posted in https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/tps-testing-gone-bad-726992/page2/
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03-17-08, 08:13 PM
#9
K so on the narrow range I've got it at 1.0vdc, on the full range I'm getting .47vdc. How do I adjust the full range TPS? Should I leave it alone since the FSM says its self-adjusting?
The idle is still smooth but it looks like my 6-7000RPM hesitation came back. Its more like sputtering, randomly anywhere b/w 6-7krpm. It starts after the engines run for 10min+
My plugs probably have more than 10k on them, I'll pull them tonight and check them out.
The idle is still smooth but it looks like my 6-7000RPM hesitation came back. Its more like sputtering, randomly anywhere b/w 6-7krpm. It starts after the engines run for 10min+
My plugs probably have more than 10k on them, I'll pull them tonight and check them out.
03-17-08, 09:14 PM
#11
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K so on the narrow range I've got it at 1.0vdc, on the full range I'm getting .47vdc. How do I adjust the full range TPS? Should I leave it alone since the FSM says its self-adjusting?
The idle is still smooth but it looks like my 6-7000RPM hesitation came back. Its more like sputtering, randomly anywhere b/w 6-7krpm. It starts after the engines run for 10min+
My plugs probably have more than 10k on them, I'll pull them tonight and check them out.
The idle is still smooth but it looks like my 6-7000RPM hesitation came back. Its more like sputtering, randomly anywhere b/w 6-7krpm. It starts after the engines run for 10min+
My plugs probably have more than 10k on them, I'll pull them tonight and check them out.
The Full range is supposedly just for the operation of the OMP, so I don't think that is your hesitation problem, plus you did not say a thing about kicking a code for the TPS.
The hesitation sounds like another thing though.
If it's a turbo..........it's too much of a pain to remove the intercooler to do the above.
The little bit less than a half volt for the Full range bugs me just a little. No screw for that.
03-17-08, 09:27 PM
#12
Yup, will do after I pull the plugs and inspect them. Yeah no code for TPS at all, and I think the hesitation is something else too since the voltage is OK and the idle is smooth.
Plug # 1 (before wire brush cleaning):
Sorry its a bitch to get a good pic of a spark plug lol. I'll report back in a little bit after I drive with the spark plugs cleaned.
Plug # 1 (before wire brush cleaning):
Sorry its a bitch to get a good pic of a spark plug lol. I'll report back in a little bit after I drive with the spark plugs cleaned.
03-17-08, 10:57 PM
#13
The other three plugs looked similar to #1. They all had a brown/black buildup and I cleaned them with a wire brush. Went for a drive and the hesitation is still there. The times it doesn't hesitate it still doesn't accelerate as hard as usual between 7-8k. VDI maybe? I'll check the actuators tommorow, hopefully I don't have to pull the intake manifolds to soak them.
03-21-08, 09:55 PM
#14
Well just a heads up for people with stuck 5th and 6th port actuators I was able to free mine up without taking of the LIM, I sprayed parts cleaner on them and moved them as much as I could with hand, then sprayed WD40 and PB blaster and messed with them for at least an hour. They move up and down fine now and the hesitation is completely gone now so don't forget to lubricate your 5th and 6th ports actuators every now and then.
06-14-09, 04:33 PM
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I Hate to open a semi-dead thread, but as the OP mentioned, the S5 TPS seems to be a bit under-diagrammed.
I've taken a number of pictures under my hood and I'd like to confirm that my understanding of what I have read is correct,
1: only the narrow band can be adjusted and that is the lower plunger :
2. The connector looks like this. The wires in the red circle are what is tested for narrow band resistance (should be ~1kOhm) / The wires in the green circle are the full band resistence (hard to photograph bottem right and middle upper in picture /appros ~o.8kOhm)
3. The screw that should be adjusted is this one :
When adjust the screw either tap into the light tester, or using AaronCakes's preferred method, monitor the narrowband until meter spots on to 1kOhm?
NOTE: I realise the pictures are small. Full res shots can be reached via this tag in flickr.
I've taken a number of pictures under my hood and I'd like to confirm that my understanding of what I have read is correct,
1: only the narrow band can be adjusted and that is the lower plunger :
2. The connector looks like this. The wires in the red circle are what is tested for narrow band resistance (should be ~1kOhm) / The wires in the green circle are the full band resistence (hard to photograph bottem right and middle upper in picture /appros ~o.8kOhm)
3. The screw that should be adjusted is this one :
When adjust the screw either tap into the light tester, or using AaronCakes's preferred method, monitor the narrowband until meter spots on to 1kOhm?
NOTE: I realise the pictures are small. Full res shots can be reached via this tag in flickr.
06-14-09, 07:33 PM
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However everything else looks right in the pictures? Most importantly the narrow range screw is the one I circled and I would be probing the right wires?
06-14-09, 10:21 PM
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For most things like this, I have some short, thing, sturdy, highly conductive wires (almost pins), and insulated wire with insulted alligator clips on both sides. Slide the conductive wire in, and then use the clips to connect them to the probe.
Depends on the connectors. you can simply use the probes on most of the electrical in the cabin and trunk. The clearance on this one, looks like the wires the only option..
06-15-09, 12:10 AM
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Good points. only reason I even had the thought of back probing is cause I can't seem to maneuver my fat fingers to un-clip the harness. Which brings even more worry about reclipping, especially if the engine is hot...
06-15-09, 12:39 AM
#23
thank god i found this post! i was going insane as to what i'm supposed to adjust on the s5 tps. but now that i change it cause my old one wasn't working right. the car can't even stay on?.( it had a bouncy idle with the old one).And the engine check light is flashing in the car (what the hell would cause it to flash?). I found out why the car doesn't stay on which has to do with the MAF but after playing with it (i still need a new one though) the car still had the bouncy idle like the old tps sensor? would it not being adjusted have anything to do with this? Also i plan on getting another MAF really soon cause i need my car to get around. plase help me
06-15-09, 01:12 AM
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thank god i found this post! i was going insane as to what i'm supposed to adjust on the s5 tps. but now that i change it cause my old one wasn't working right. the car can't even stay on?.( it had a bouncy idle with the old one).And the engine check light is flashing in the car (what the hell would cause it to flash?). I found out why the car doesn't stay on which has to do with the MAF but after playing with it (i still need a new one though) the car still had the bouncy idle like the old tps sensor? would it not being adjusted have anything to do with this? Also i plan on getting another MAF really soon cause i need my car to get around. plase help me
1) yes those are the wires you wanna monitor.
2) yes that is the screw you wanna turn.
But I agree, dealing with the S5 TPS is driving me nuts due to lack of pictures or diagrams. I'm hoping we get someone who is a god of S5 TPS on here to say yes, those pictures are ok. (and then those pictures are staying put as long as flickr is up.)