clied

I just got my tps adjusted, idle is at 1k but when i go wot the ohms drop to .5? I thought the resistance was suppose to go up to 5k?

1.000 at idle
0.500 at wot

Engine fully warm

If i move the throttle slowly the resistance goes up to 1.900 then no reading, then to .500.

CosmoQuik

could be three things one ur tps is bad or two your testing the wrong leads or three your doing the calibrating out of sequence

clied

red lead to green wire, black lead to black wire.

I don't understand what you mean how I may be calibrating out of sequence?

CosmoQuik

first off its tested and calibrated in volts not ohms

Buy a Mazda Factory Service Manual from HELM. They can be reached at 1-800-782-4356. (Or try Mazdatrix) See the Fuel section (F1 for NA, F2 for turbo). In the back of the section, there is a 1/2 page on checking and adjusting the TPS. I expand on that section here.

Warm up the engine to proper operating temperature
Stop the engine and remove the key.
Ground the "Test/check connector" if you can find it. Don't sweat it too much if you cannot find it, I don't think it makes a difference.
Insert the key and turn to the ignition position. (Do NOT start.)
Find the green 3-pin connector between the intake air filter box, and the right front strut tower.
It should look roughly like this:
---------
| A | B |
---------
\ C /
-----
C is "hot" or positive. A and B are (switched) ground. Hook your tester up with the positive lead in C. Only one side (A or B) should get to 12V. If both A and B read 12V, or if neither do, you've got some adjusting to do...
Adjusting... - Find the slotted screw (also has a locking nut on the back, and very fine threads) on the TPS. The TPS is located in the front, center of the intake plenium. It is right smack in the middle of the engine compartment, right in front of the intake. (Kinda sticking its tongue out at you.) There are two small black round "plungers" mounted on it. The one closest to the front is the NARROW range sensor. If you turn the throttle you'll notice it is completely extended at less than 1/2 throttle. Then one in the back is the FULL range sensor. This one measures the entire throttle range.
Once you have found the parts, you begin playing a simple game. The game is to try to get only one socket (a/b) to be "active", with the other one dead. If you turn the screw and listen for clicks, you can also tell when you've passed a threshold. Hook the meter up to one of the sockets and turn the screw 1-2 turns. If nothing happened, try the other socket. Something should have changed. (They probably went from both off to both on, or vice-versa.) There is only about 1/2 turn of "usable" range where only 1 side will be active. I usually find this range, then "blip" the accel a few times to make sure the throttle has really settled. Keep repeating this process, turn, blip, measure both sides - until you are satisfied you have found the "center".
Chances are it took you so long to figure this out the engine got cold. Take another test drive, and see if there is an improvement.
ALWAYS do a final test (step 7) again once you are back from the test drive. The hotter engine will change the tolerances of the TPS, and you want then set with a warm/hot engine.

Voltmeter Method.
Use a DIGITAL VOLTMETER with a high input impedance ONLY. No Cheapos. If you short things, it is possible that you could fry your ECU.

Slightly modify the above procedure. (Be sure to read it over.) The TPS is connected to a 6-pin plug in the front/center of the engine. The pinouts are as follows: NARROW - ground, +5V reference, DATA (0-5v range) FULL - ground, +5V reference, DATA (0-5v range) You can follow the wires to determine which DATA line goes with which sensor. You want to find FULL DATA line first. (Use the battery post or engine block as a ground.) You can find the data lines by turning on the ignition, and turning the throttle. Look for the pins whose voltage varies when you turn the throttle.
FULL - Probe the FULL DATA line. It should read close to 0.8v. (Safe range is probably 0.6 to 1.0.) If it is off, take a large pair of pliers, and gently bend the entire metal TPS "platform" left or right as necessary to bring the voltage to 0.8v. A little goes a long way, so be gentle. Once the voltage is close to 0.8v, you are done with the FULL range.
NARROW - Probe the NARROW DATA line. It should read roughly 1.0v (but it could be way off.) Turn the TPS adjust screw until you get 1.0v. Don't forget to "blip" the throttle to make sure it has settled. Double-check the connector using the (step 7) method above. (It should be correct, only one side active.) If both (or neither) sides are active, you'll need to fall back on the method above. When you are finished adjusting, double-check the voltage for the NARROW DATA again. It should be close to 1.0v (0.75 - 1.25 is tolerable.)

HAILERS

Sorry, he has a 88GXL or the like.

The FSM for setting the TPS is in error. See that attached jpg.

But even then, ignore that. Use the meter on ohms with all plugs attached and the engine fully HOT and at idle so it won't cool off. Then backprobe the green/red wire on the TPS connector. It should read approx 1vdc. If not, then adjust the TPS screw til it reads 1vdc.

Then stop and go do something useful.

Or if you insist doing the 1K stuff, then just don't do more that A to C set at 1K ohm and be done with it. The rest is not that big a deal (I mean, anything that says plus or minus 1K, who needs that ballpark figure?).

jhammons01

ah Hailers always with the excellent advice