Vroomaster

I recently made the checklight setup for the ECU's green plug. Would this be compatable to use to check the TPS also? I'd seen that you have to order it from Mazda or something. Sorry, but I can't find a link to eith site that shows you how to set up the ECU checklight for codes as reference...

NZConvertible

Yes, you can use the same checklights for the TPS and ECU. Handy!

Vroomaster

cool

Cwaters

I have the ECU check lights that I've made but the online instructions I had specifically excluded the "green light". What are you doing to access the green light information? Are you using the same rig to check that as to check for ECU codes???

Thanks,
Cory

NZConvertible

I completely missed this bit! Here you go:

86-88 Code checker

Don't quite understand. What green light are you refering to?

91vert

BEWARE!!!!!

If you are going to make a TPS test light, make sure you find the smallest watt bulbs possible. I followed the instructions on a link I found a couple of years ago to make a TPS check light and it suggested using turn signal bulbs. I made one using turn signal bulbs and as soon as I tried to use it, it fried my ECU.

It burnt up a couple of resistors in the ECU because those big bulbs were drawing too much current. I luckily was able to unsolder the fried resistors and solder in some new ones without ******* anything else up in the ECU and it is fixed.

I made a new light with some little tiny LED bulbs I found at Radio Shack and have used that many times now without a problem.

HAILERS

kEITH, who is really IRV, has tapped in the same plug and the signal for the 02 sensor. It does the same thing the factory checker does with its green lite. See fsm. So I'd pm KEITH , and ask him how he rigs his. I elected not to do so. I use wires taps on the more important wires on the ECU, going to a moleX connector running to close to the gear shift and then a couple of cheap Radio Shack digital meters velcro'd to the idiot light assy. I'd bet he connects the light b/t the socket designated ABR and the one called GREEN LIGHT, just below it. PM KEITH(IRV).

ka8legend

Yeah I used the 15mA type LEDs with red & black wires, from radio shack as well. Now do you need to warm up the car to see if it's outta whack since I get 1 light to show(which is a good sign) when the engine is ice cold. And the same LED lid up when the engine was warm. Go figure.
Also, the resistance for the wide range TPS(narrow range was w/in specs) was 1.3k ohms, so don't know if that was acceptable or not as it went just a bit out of range. Maybe that could explain my loss of power over 6k rpm. This is on my 90gxl.

91vert

The engine does need to be at normal operating temps to adjust the TPS. If not, the thermowax holds the throttle open a little bit.

I think the resistance I had for the wide range was right at exactly 1.00 ohms. That is what the ECU expects it to be at idle from what I've read from the factory service manual. I've tuned mine with the test light, and then was able to fine tune it with my multimeter by probing the wires while the electrical connector was attached.

ka8legend

1ohm or 1000ohm?
Anyways, I thought as long as you get 1 LED to light up, there's no need for adjustment; I believe the fsm states that the the tps are not adjustable. So if my ohm reading was out of range, then I need to get a new tps, No?

Cwaters

The TPS certainly IS adjustable. There's a procedure for adjusting it in MY FSM...
Funny thing is, if I get the resistance to line-up right with my Volt meter, the lightbulb thingie isn't right anymore....

Cory

NZConvertible

Series 4 is adjustable, Series 5 is not.I had the same experience (and driveability was worse), which is why I went back to the lights.