CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

First off, damn, that was freaking easy, and there are truely soo few parts, i could easly assemble this without my manual although im not gona try it

I only ran into a few problems, 1 of which was my own damn fault. While hitting the flywheel with the dead blow hammer i missed on one of the 1st hard swings and nocked a chunk of my rear plate off. Its between to tranny studs but im not sure if im gona use it or not, ill post pics at some point.

Besides that only problem was stubbron bolts, even with an impact gun and it took a while to get my dowl pins out.

For anyone whos thinking about tearing apart your motor, GO FOR IT, its freaking easy. I did it without an engine stand, HEAT, yes, i tore into this in an open air garadge at 9 thismornign while it was 29*, my hands still tingle. To keep the engine off the cement i just had it on 2 geo metro tires, fits like a glove

Got a few questions for people though. 1 is how can i clean the rotors? If i get a cheap parts cleaner and a soft brisle brush can i just scrub the **** out of em? not much carbon on em but there is a enough to bug me.

and 2, i want to clean the outside of my housings, if i just cover all coolent passages, ports sparkplugs and the inside of the housing in genral, can i just sandblast the outside?

-Jacob

BDoty311

Ya the rotaries arent too hard. I had the Atkins video which made it really easy, no impact gun though.

I cleaned my rotors with parts cleaner and a wire brush, seems to have worked pretty good.

As far as the housing Im not sure if you can sand blast them or not. What I did was attach a wire brush onto my electric drill and cleaned them that way. They are really shiny now.

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

Does atkins video show both tear down and buildup? does it talk about porting or anything besides just assembly/dissassembly?

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

yeah the video has teardown and build up. As for cleaning the the rotors, just go get 2-3 gallon cans of Carb cleaner (or cold parts cleaner). Use the Parts Cleaner that you boght and scrub them with a brass bristle brush, then dip the rotors in the carb cleaner for 12 hours. Take them out and scrape the slots (use a apex seal in the spex seal groove, and in the oil right groves, an duse a old side seal in the side seal groove). Once you did that sip them back into the carb cleaner for another 12 hours. When you are done they will look almost brand new.

Rpeck

No it doesn't cover porting ... it does cover a few reliability upgrades, like weber jets for oil in the E-shaft, upgrading the OPR, and that front cover O-ring that tends to leak like a siv. I does show sothing about smoothing the ports or some crap like that though ... I forget it all, its been a while. It is very nice to have though.

Robert

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Parts washer. Only way to go.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

I did the same things about a month ago and just fninished rebuilding mine about four days ago! Cannot wait to put her back in!

BDoty311

The video also shows how to make your own Pineapple Racing sleeves and what to use to make them. I performed this one but none of the others because I was running out of time to put it back together.

PS- I also used two tires as my engine stand.

BlackRx7

agreed with aaron parts washer is the only way, tear down it the easy pary, cleaning is the hardest, assemblly is the next hardest, I'would paint the engine while its apart, just to make it look good , and porting is really easy as long as you have the templates and tools....don't forget to superglue the side pieces of the apex seals onto the top piece or when you reassemble you could screw stuff up...here my redone engine, nice huh

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

hey guys whats the top 5 things to remember when rebuilding your own engine. like there is something about holding the clutch in while you do something so it wont screw something up....you know those type of non common knowledge things would be great

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

what are 5-10 very importnant things to remember like holding the clutch in while u do something stuff like that

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

damn double posts i posted one then nothing so i reposted...sorry

BlackRx7

well if your rebuiling the motor no need to hold the clutch in.....just follow the Haynes Manual and you'll be fine....Atkins video will help out greatly and if you have an N/A it tells you many good mods.....

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

cool that sounds good...i have an 87 TII that im thinking of rebuilding myself...but im still a little sketchy on the details and a lil iffy on wether or not im smart enough and good enough with tools

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

besides filling it with oil do u have to like shoot oil in the chamber before you first start it?

BDoty311

When putting it together you should oil up all the parts in the engine.

jwall

does anybody wana sell there atkins video??
i need one!

also how much did u all pay for your rebuild kit??

1adzam

I would highly recommend the Atkins video. It has some time-saving hints and really shows you what to look for once the engine is apart. Would strongly suggest taking the mic measurements of all surfaces to determine what is really good and what is not. It's worth every penny of 29.95!

jwall

would ya get both of them???

the removal and install of the motor

and

the genarall overhaul?

1adzam

Well, if you got the beast out then you're halfway home. The RR video does provide some good advice on getting the engine back in. It's at least better than the Haynes "installation is the opposite of removal" teehee. But definately get the the tear-down one. It's great! Covers many things not in the Haynes that you just wouldn't know if you're not familiar with rotary's. My advice is get both. It's the cheapest thing thing you'll buy for your motor!!! :-)

BlackRx7

very true, I had to pull start my motor at 40 mph in 2nd gear to get it fired up, I had spark and fuel just needed to break loose the seals, needs about 2000 rpms to build up the right compresion....