lowlude34

I am slowly getting the gremlins out of my jspec s4 TII swap. Now that I have one problem solved, another new problem appears. I found out that there was a short in my wiring harness going to my water housing sensors which caused my rear rotor not to combust. After fixing that, I was able to start my car (sometimes). Here is my problem. The timing is way off. I insert my CAS, making sure to turn and realign it into my mark that I placed inside like everyone on the forum tells me. When the engine start and I place timing light on it, the pointer on the front cover is way off the mark on the pulley. The pointer on the front cover is about a couple of inches right from the mark on the pulley. Sometimes I can’t even see the markers on my pulley. When I turn the CAS to get it back on time, the engine starts shaking very hard and sometimes dies. You can hear that the engine is off timed if you listen to the exhaust when the pointer is lined up to the yellow mark on the pulley because it sounds like putt, putt, putt. When I rev the engine, “only to 3000rpm” the rpm hesitates and struggles to rev, and when I let it go down, it will back fires and sometimes dies.

Questions.
What’s wrong?

How come my timing is so off when I insert the CAS correctly? It is suppose to be in the ball park. Being off by a couple of inches, I don’t consider in the ball park. “The CAS is good, I’m using my friends working CAS off his turbo II.”

Could there be a short somewhere again in my wiring harness somewhere, causing a delay in my timing? If so, can you give me some ideas how to find it and where to start looking?

Also I found out that my tps has a flat spot in it, will that cause my timing to be way off even at idle? The flat spot in the tps is about 1/3 pushed in.

WAYNE88N/A

Make sure you are lining up the correct marks on the CAS, there are some machined or casting "marks" on the shaft that will fool you. I think there's a good picture of it in the Haynes manual, if you have one, and if you do a search, Hailers posted a pic a while back of what the magnets and pickup coils should look like relative to each other when the marks are lined up (pull the cover to see).

After my rebuild, she ran like **** with the timing marks dead nuts, too, so I set it "by ear" so she would idle and run good, then slowly tweaked her towards the timing marks as she broke in some. Don't ask me why, but it worked. She still to this day runs better a couple of degrees advanced, so I leave her there...

1/3 pushed in on the TPS, is that where she sits at idle? In any case, that shouldn't be affecting your timing, I would think. Remember also you need to be at about 750 rpm to time her by the marks...

HAILERS

I agree. The rpm's HAVE to be close to 750 rpm. If around a grand, then the ECU will advance the timing by itself. Try installing the initial set coupler and making SURE the rpms are close to seven fifty.

lowlude34

Ok, I'll double check the marks on my pulley. Maybe I'll try and time it by ear, any tips on what i should be listening for?

HAILERS

If you go to this thread http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=29846 I posted a scanner view of the cas showing the relationship of the teeth in the cas relative to the fixed coils (two black jobs) WHEN the timing marks on the pulley are aligned with the fixed pointer. I can yank my cas out ....spin the engine with the starter...... hand turn the engine til the first mark is aligned with the fixed pointer....reinstall the cas so that the teeth are as represented in the jpg....and start the engine and I guarantee you that I will be within five degrees easy each and everytime I do that.. The fsm method gets you in Yankee Stadium and that's about all.

I know not what to listen for. If I know the timing is spot on....the revs are under 800=900, then if the engine sounds sour its going to be another thing other than timing.