Then the ground wire in that switch is probably not grounded.

 

^ that does make sense.

What about the difference between what I read at the TPS and what I read at the ECU pins? Before I spend on a new TPS, I'd like to know I'm not throwing money needlessly

 

And the clutch depressed is what passes the ground through the switch on its way to the ECU. Once the clutch is released then the ground is not passed through.

You would have to do more testing w/the TPS to know for sure. If the TPS output wire was depinned from the ECU you could then rule out the ECU as causing your problem.

 

Thanks for the help Satch,

I've found some conflicting results from retesting. TPS narrow pin now seems to fall right in place. I read the same voltage at TPS as I do at ECU. When I first tested at the ECU and found the flat voltage and no range I triple checked it. I thought I made sure that my backprobe was making good contact. That is what I first thought when I saw the flat signal. I go back a few days later and the reading is right on for the narrow pin. My full range pin is still off by about half of what it should be. IIRC it should be around .8V and mine was at .53V at idle. At WOT throttle it sat at below the 4.3V FSM calls for by about .3V. Same amount it's off at idle position.

I went back and double checked the clutch switch and found that one was NOT backprobed correctly. It shows correct specs since it has been replaced.

In the next couple days I'm doing the 500 mile oil change, gonna change the spark plugs also as they sound from the idle like they are fouling. I'm going to go back through and set my idle as it's sitting a little low now....go from there.

I bought a wideband to see what's going on with air and fuel. That will be here in a few days. I'll probably be able to install it this weekend.

Is the full range on the TPS enough to throw off timing? It's only .3V off, but that given that it's only supposed to see .8V nearly half off spec seems like it could be significant? Any opinions?

 

Update, Wideband is installed and calibrated. Initially it showed idle of 11.6ish afr, after taking the car around the neighborhood..maybe 1 mile or so it's idling at 10.8ish.

I may not have the best ground for the gauge as it will spontaneously show open air 22.4 ratio and then go back to reading normal. I mounted it temporarily over my headunit, but it will eventually move to the a pillar. (have to drill out the screws holding the top bracket in place first). I used one of the shifter bracket bolts to ground the Innovate. BUT the bracket is raised so and the crimp end is under the bracket so that it's directly on the chasis. I'm going to move the ground to one of the ECU bolts.

I reset the idle a day or so before I installed the wideband. I had it to just about 750rpm warmed up and the TPS set to 1V. TPS doesn't seem to have any dead spots. I checked it both at the TPS and the ECU and both range nice and even from 1-4.75V. The full range also ranges without any dead spots, but is about .3V below what FSM calls for.

After getting the wideband installed I start up the engine and it's again barely above 0rpm. I let the engine warm up and took it for a drive, idle still at around 0 rpm.

 

with or without the airpump/acv?

 

without either and emissions removed. I have blockoff plates for the ACV and IIRC it's the split air pipe that fed into the cat. Both of those have block off plates. I'm still using the BAC and the TB is a S5 JDM that is not modified. I have the solenoids for emissions plugged into the harnesses, but they aren't seeing any vac/pressure

 

Looks like I tracked down the cause of my rough idle and afr idling at 10.7ish. The IAT within my AFM was dead. Swapped a good N350 on and it was like night and day with the idle being rough. I can't run the N350 beyond break in, but it'll do for now.

But of course it wouldn't be me if a seemingly unrelated problem didn't jump out to say high. Took the car for an extended drive and started burning up EGI fuses.