Timing after rebuild....
#1
BOOSTED Vert
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Timing after rebuild....
How to set the proper timming after a rebuild??? moving the cas has no affect on the rpms at all or timing... Only thing that makes a difference is restabing it...
Help please
Thanks,
Martin
Help please
Thanks,
Martin
#3
BOOSTED Vert
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well I cant see the marks with the timing light, which is how I know its way off... sometimes when I go to start the car it even kicks back.... also I was moving the cas at over 3k because my car doesnt idle.....Is there a proper way to install the cas after a rebuild???
#5
I break Diff mounts
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you can't do timing over 1k rpm.
TO get yourself on a VERY close timing.
Align the right most indentation on the main pulley with the needle on the front cover.
This is now 5degrees from top dead I believe.
Now take the CAS and look at the cog at the bottom.
You will see a mark on the housing and right below on the cog there is a mark.
Line it up and it will be close to perfect timing.
Drop the CAS in.
Move it back and forth a bit to see if you can find the marks while running.
I'm having a bastard time getting my timing down too.
Get it as close to 1k as you can for now. Then put the Intitial set wire in(2pin gree plug near leading coil pack/just jumper it)
TO get yourself on a VERY close timing.
Align the right most indentation on the main pulley with the needle on the front cover.
This is now 5degrees from top dead I believe.
Now take the CAS and look at the cog at the bottom.
You will see a mark on the housing and right below on the cog there is a mark.
Line it up and it will be close to perfect timing.
Drop the CAS in.
Move it back and forth a bit to see if you can find the marks while running.
I'm having a bastard time getting my timing down too.
Get it as close to 1k as you can for now. Then put the Intitial set wire in(2pin gree plug near leading coil pack/just jumper it)
#6
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just search up CAS theres several threads on it ..
i had to do it not too long ago ... ITS DAMN EASY ... takes about 10 mins per the FSM
basically you loosen that holding nut (10mm) and pull it out ... line up the marks on the bottom gear and the shaft, the make not of the gear postion on the top after removeing the lid ... then stab it ... it will move some, but thats why you make note of the gear position under the lid, so you can adjust it after its set ....
before you do any of this though, make sure the timing mark lines up on the pulley
i had to do it not too long ago ... ITS DAMN EASY ... takes about 10 mins per the FSM
basically you loosen that holding nut (10mm) and pull it out ... line up the marks on the bottom gear and the shaft, the make not of the gear postion on the top after removeing the lid ... then stab it ... it will move some, but thats why you make note of the gear position under the lid, so you can adjust it after its set ....
before you do any of this though, make sure the timing mark lines up on the pulley
#7
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If you take the cover of the CAS you will see a gear that has two ends on it, when the cog/mark are lined up correctly, one end will be about 8 o'clock. Put some whiteout or black marker on that end and just make sure it's near 8 o'clock. It helped me do my timing, kevin landers told me about it.
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#8
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Those with rebuilds who swapped from pullies (the pully isn't the one that went on the engine's front hub originally) can expect timing marks to be inaccurate by as much as 30 degrees. You always want to use the original pullies on the original hub to maintain accuracy.
#9
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I used the same pulleys well pulley from the jspec.... I will try to set it up today, but its too late to start the car since it has no downpipe...Ill let yall know how it goes.... Thanks
Martin
Martin
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