Okay, it's about that time to dump more money into the car and I've been looking around everywhere trying to make sure I get everything. But, I haven't been able to really find any place that sells aftermarket secondary rails for an S4 N/A, I've heard primary rails should swap no problems though. Can anybody point me in the right direction? I'm currently looking at replacing the stock FPR and FPD since I'm running an Aero 340 Stealth pump and E85 but I'd really like to not have to buy the FPR to AN rail adapter or drill/tap my stock rail. If it comes down to it I'd get the adapter but modifying the rail is a no-go.

Also, I'm having a bunch of lost sync 17 issues with my MS3X, where it will buck and rpm in TS and on the tach will drop for a split second, so I was just going to go with the FF Hall trigger kit. The problem is I also want to run a side mount alt for better w/p contact and the FF kit says no P/S. I've been examining stock photos from both the alt kit and the trigger kit and it seems like the alt kits sit out on removable spacers and I think the FF trigger kit could replace the spacers and still function. My question is on belt placement, would there be enough room to run the side mount belt without destroying the trigger kit?

 

Anybody?

I figure with the trigger kit and side mount alt that I'm going to have to figure that out myself. I'm wondering if anybody has pics dead on from the front of the engine with either installed just to see for clearance?

 

Well, I got everything installed and buttoned up around 8:30pm last night and I have to say it runs exceptionally well. No issues with the belt, currently running a Duralast 17400, except for a slight whine but I'm guessing I probably over tensioned the belt a little bit, almost sounds like I've got a supercharger lol.

In the ~15 minutes or so that I drove it after I let her warm up to temp, she seems to run so much smoother now. She idles strong and steady, no random losing sync issues common with the stock CAS, and no more squealing belt in the upper rpm range or when I stab the throttle a few times out of gear. As a unexpected extra, my shifter isn't doing the shimmy anymore while out of gear, still vibrates a little but no where near as bad.

I snapped a few pictures last night before it got too dark but before everything was completely bolted down, and I'll grab a few more tomorrow and possibly a vid and throw them up here just so you can see that it all does in fact fit, and quite nicely at that.

 

Never had a single loss of sync with the stock CAS... but I'm running MS2

Had lots with the rtek... but I attribute that to the rtek being a bandaid solution for an ecu.

 

I was getting boat loads of reason 11 even at idle, which is probably why my shifter would shimmy. And, driving down the road i'd get reason 17 which would actually cause both tach's, dash and tunerstudio, to drop of and the car to buck for a split second and then go again.