djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

Alright so my 90 GXL popped the front rotor last week for no good reason while warming up. So now she is going to get a TII swap. Budget is not a major issue, but I'm not building a race car here. So I have a few questions, and I have searched, but I want info from people who actually have done a TII swap as to which direction I should go.

1) TII engine, EMS (name one), 720cc injectors, FMIC (cheap-to keep stock hood)

2) Half cut, lengthen harness.


The only real questions I have are-

1) with the EMS I can basically ditch the factory ECU and harness right? Also I want to get rid of the AFM and go MAP based.

2) what major issues will I have when installing an EMS system?

3) should I talk myself out of the EMS and just get the half cut, but then basically be stock for alot of money.

I don't care right now that "I need the whole TII drivetrain" since this is not a race car.

I know alot of guys use standalone, so their input on installing and what I need to keep and ditch would be helpful. This is all going to go down next week so I need the help ASAP.

No stupid posts please. And if I don't know how to do something, trust me, I have someone close to help.

Thanks guys DJ

Here is a pic of the subject in question

Fitness Stain

woo hooo!

a new blow off valve to listen to

personally i say dont go stand alone EMS, as that adds alot of money to the budget ..
RB turbo back exhaust
i say go rtek 1.7 and 720 injectors
and s5 turbo with ported wastegate ....



oh and free bump

JMY952

Sorry I have no clue relating to this subject, but I must say, that is a very nice/clean rx7.

I don't mean to take away the topic but I'm just curious...how much did you pay for your 1990?

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

I payed under $3000 for it from the original owner, 129K.

Dustin I see your point, but if I get just the engine, I have to scrounge to find all the bullshit sensors to go with it. With a standalone, I can simplify. And a Haltech isn't that expensive.
I will blow an easy $3000 on a front clip, and still have to get a harness. Oh well, maybe someone has some insight.

Fitness Stain

true true

i was assuming you would ****** a harness along with the actual engine ....
hell i don t know im drunk!


i hope you get it running before the end of the warm weather though .... cause we would for sure have to contrast and compare our setups

MARTIN

I did the tII swap and I went basically all out for performance... I dont have the tII drivetrain installed since I havent blown the stock n/a. Any ems(standalone) comes with a new harness. No need to keep the crappy stock one(guessing yours is in bad condition). There are a couple of things that you need from the stock, passenger side(engine) harness. The wipers, cruise, alt, and temp wire for the the stock guage. everysingle AM ems uses map as the primary load sensor. So no need to keep the stock afm...

crassfc3s

hey im doing the same thing with my 91 gxl, i have the full drivetrain , motor with uncut ecu and harness , custom fmic setup, rfl bov, intake, rb exhuast , greddy full auto timer and few other odds and ends, minus the drivetrain its about 2400... not bad for a few mods throw in there

MARTIN

thats actualy a pretty awesome price

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

Bump. What about the new Emanage Ultimate? Is that a standalone, or piggyback?

crassfc3s

greddy emanage is a stand alone so im assuming the ultimate is also one but im totally speaking with no experience on the unit so just take it as an assumption, btw, anyone selling a s5 AFM??? i have rotary performance looking for me lol

skyburner

I have an NA S5 AFM. Pm me.

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

Use PM's to sell stuff, I'm trying to get some info here. I know alot of guys have standalones on their car. I hope I can get some info so I can start buying the parts I need.

rotorbrain

okay, i say go standalone. you live in tennessee where its easy to get a tag w/o emissions equipment. dont worry about that so much. i see dustins standpoint, because its simple and worryless. if you want to do more and go with standalone dont worry so much with a haltech. . . as there are no tuners out here. you should look into the other brands. . . like microtech. . . thats the one to get cause its based on rotary stuff. . . and ive seen GOOD hp runs from its users.

if you do go ems. . . beware the issues of not having a "supertuner" in close range. i can help you as much as possible, but i dont know those systems. . . that makes it harder to deal with.

now, i HAVE heard of people putting power fc's on their s5 tII's. that is a good option since you have myself and david at your fingertips. . . well, youll have me for a little bit anyways.

this is very serious. you have to ask yourself, "WHAT DO I WANNA DO IN THE FUTURE?" bigger single? bigger porting? whatever. . . if you want to do those things. . . be ready with a standalone ems.

paul

iceblue

No the E-mange is a piggy back and not a stand alone EMS.

As to help you djmtsu - I have to ask you, what are your HP goals? This and foremost will be what is dependant upon if I suggest you go stand alone or not.

I understand you want to get rid of the MAF. I ask is it really worth 1,500+$ to ditch it?

Next if you chose standalone who is going to tune it for you? As well dyno time and so on all costs more money.

If your HP goals are not over 350hp in my opinion an EMS is not necessary. A properly tuned EMS will always make a bettor running car, but is not always needed. If all you are looking for is a stock turbo and a stock running motor producing maybe 275hp I am going to suggest a TII ECU with an Rtek chip. It is cost beneficial and has been proven to work spectacular in these conditions.

So far I have not found the TII rear end a necessity. Especially at -300hp. This in mined can save you allot of money. If you are not looking for much over 300BHP you can more then likely get away just the TII block and not the whole drive train. I mean you do not sound like someone who beats there car to the ground. This tells me you will have the intelligence to keep the drive train together.

This being said and possibly able to save you buckets of money. IMHO if you are looking under 350BHP I will suggest a TII long block. Use a TII ECU with Rtek and 720cc secondary injectors. Port your turbo. Use 2.5in IC piping for your FMIC. Use your N/A drive train. Adapt your factory N/A wire harness over. I suggest cooling upgrades with the FMIC but has been proven to not always be needed. With this said you will need the following parts "hope I don’t leave anything out" TII block, boost sensor, TII AFM "not necessary but suggested" TII ECU, Rtek chip, TII throttle cable, upgraded fuel pump.

If you chose EMS you will need the following. First check for a local tuner and ask him what unit he is familiar and comfortable tuning under. Get his unit. Now you need the TII block and EMS with wire harness, upgraded fuel pump, TII throttle cable.

Hope this helps you.

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

Now that is the type of info I was referrring too!

I don't plan on going gonzo pn HP, this is a daily driver. I think I will opt for the half cut I found for around $2500. That way I will have all the goodies I need off the bat. AFM, ECU, lengthen the Jspec harness, all the other stuff under the hood I may need. Then I'll try to get some 720cc's, the Rtek, and have Garfinkle port the turbo and manifold. That is really all I need. That being said, I may have to ditch the idea of a FMIC for later, but it depends on the cash flow situation. In that case then all I would need to locate is a white TII hood. Yikes.

MARTIN

the hood should come with the clip

iceblue

You could always just make the TMIC a FMIC or cut your hood and fiber-glass a new hood scoop on. All in all if you do the hood scoop and repaint the hood I say you could do it for 100$. If you can not find a hood that is.

If I may make a suggestion, I would opt out of the clip swap. I would get the block form a reputable shop such as rotaryresurrection "Kevin Landers" and locate all the other parts you need in the for sale section of this forum from other members. This way you have a fresh rebuilt motor for around the same price or less.

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

The only issue with getting an engine from Kevin is that I don't have anything to start with. Unless by some freak miracle he has a complete longblock S5 TII engine laying around.

Also time is a major constraint for this. All I have is my motorcycle for daily transport now, and let me tell you how much the rain is sucking ***.

rotorbrain

hahaha, it has been raining rather suckily.

lets think about the time. its gonna take a while REGARDLESS. youre gonna need plenty of time to get all this squared away. . . and thats with you working as often as you like. if i were you id go for the fmic option. dont chop up your MATCHING hood, and dont go out and get a white TII hood that doesnt match. make sense? just do the fmic option and get it over with. you know youll want it later when you start getting more ballsy with hp numbers anyways, so just do it now while the car is down and you actually HAVE an excuse.

okay, what sensors are you talking about needing? im sure kevin HAS the ones that attatch to the block. what else do you need? afm, boost sensor. . . im guessing thats about it. make sure you get a good clutch. thatll help with the lack of a TII driveline. might as well slap a lightened flywheel on there, too. anyways, a jaspec isnt the best way to go. cause its USED and more than likely ABUSED!!!! get one rebuilt. . . that has a warranty. . . and can be trusted. id go with kevin.

paul

Bukwild

djmtsu,
I would suggest seeing that Landers is in your state and people have traveled including myself hundreds of miles for Kevin to wire up our swaps and rebuild our motors and all that. This is not something you are going to be able to do in a few days without expert help trust me. Also the idea of buying some expensive front clip is stupid. All you need is a complete jspec t2 motor because it was stated above that you are going to use the NA tranny back. You will however need a different flywheel/clutch setup because they are different between the NA and t2. Kevin and I did a complete swap on my vert a few years ago and this is what this guy does for a living. He knows his stuff and a rotary engine does not give you a learning curve. I would seriously buy a $850-1000 dollar Jspec have Landers rip it down rebuild and street port the core and then install it into your NA. So for the money you would have used on some BS clip you now have a installed rebuilt and ported powerplant that will be a start to a bad *** ride. To be completely safe I would replace the water pump and ship the injectors off to cruzin performance to be rebuilt and then you are basically set

Fitness Stain

paul paul paul !!
tisk tisk

always with the upgrades ... lol

dj if you listen to paul you'll end up spending 4k+ on this project

i have an old s4 turbo block ... we can crack it open and see if there are any usuable parts ... if that helps ... if so we can work out a decent price

going front mount has pros and cons ... most of which im sure you already know..
if you go front mount, make two so i can have one too

i say mock my setup + a front mount .. its cost effective and VERY nice for a daily driver ...
i have a stock clutch and it works just fine ....
a lightened flywheel would be nice, but thats extra money you can spend later when its more convienent, or after you bust up your NA tranny ...

i assume the main priority is getting your white stallion back on the road ...
going stand alone, upgrading anything in the driveline, and doing all this extra stuff that really isnt needed is just going to keep your car down.

remember tuning cost money + dyno time

you can ALWAYS do that a year or two down the road once the ride has bored you..

pauls gonna kill me for this, but i cant help it ... we always bump heads when it comes to upgrades

i say do it the budget way just so you can get it back on the road and have some boosting pleasure before the summer is out...
you'll save money and your wife wont kill you cause your always at davids working on something else

the only thing out of the norm that i would suggest you do is work on a front mount .. and thats just cause you wont need to change your hood, and i can mimic your install so i can have a FMIC as well

crassfc3s

sorry haha i know its a piggy back, totally mixed my words up thanks for catching that =D

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

I think I may have the whole thing taken care of. I will update soon. SSHhhhh!