K, so, my car runs rich.........REALLY rich. Rich to the point of only getting 10 MPG and flames/backfiring..........A LOT of flames and backfiring. Also, my temp gauge doesn't work. My secondaries seem clogged, so, that 10 MPG is while driving 4K and under. I'm still running stock boost, so, what should I do to help alleviate my gas swilling ways? I have a cone filter, stock TID, 3" turbo back w/presilencer, and an S-AFC. I don't have the safc tuned at all. So, that's probably a major reason why I'm running disgustingly rich. Is the Walbro just overpowering the stock injectors without me tuning the safc at all? I won't be able to get onto a dyno for at least 3 weeks, so putting it on a wideband will have to wait. I do have a narrowband a/f gauge but thast's not accurate enough to tune it properly. Oh, and another problem. The car has NO semblance of an idle. It's not a high idle, a loping idle, it's just NO idle. I have the air pump still on, but thehose is too short to reach the AFM, so that's not hooked up. And there's a length(foot and a half to 2 feet) of small black hose with maybe a 1/8" ID coming from the rear area of the manifold,. it's just there becasue I have no clue where it goes. So, any and all help is needed, and thanks ahead of time.

 

A Walbro pump will definitely make it run rich so you need to tune the SAFC down a bit.

The long small black hose is the split air pipe that goes to the cat. Disregard it since you already have a turboback exhaust and no cats. You might as well remove the ACV and air pump since there is no use for it now unless you still have emissions in your area.

 

Check your timing, that may be your problem. The walbro will not over power the stick injectors (only if your FPR is bad then it MAY). The walbro will just along a constant flow of fuel that you will need.

You may need to send your injectors to get flow tested, they maybe leaking bad.

That long vac line maybe the line taht feeds the subzero start resevoir, if it is mine is just plugged and I have no problems.

 

Oops, I think I got the hose mixed up.

 

I'll ask for joe here since he might be on the phone with a lady friend ......but when removing the AFM from the T2, the afm got royally jacked up.....could be soldered back together, but right now he tossed in the NA AFM.....Could this be the source of his inability to idle problem? Seems like it could be...if soo, we got some soldering to do. Thanks for the help

Andrew

 

If I am not mistaken the AFM is interchangeable, do you have a match pressure sensor from a TII? That might be the problem, how about the o2 sensor?

Also make sure that the SAFC is wired properly, and the the settings are set to default.

 

The pressure sensor is from the TII, I bought a new O2 sensor, I wired the SAFC exactely how it was said to, and everything's at o%

 

Oh, also, my temp. gauge is imoperable, it used to work. Where would I hook it up? COnnection?

 

The sensor attaches to the bottom right of the radiator, and there should me a plug that connects to it...

 

Thanks for all the help eyecandy. I've never checked/adjusted timing before. The yellow tick mark on the E-shaft pulley is aout a 1/3" to the side(don't remember which) of the little pin that it's supposed to line up. How off is that? Where should it be? And, how do I adjust it? Could that be a reason my MPG is so horrible? And how far should I tune down the safc?

 

is this a s4 or s5?

see if the ECU is storing any codes.

 

Sorry, it's an S4. And, how do I pull codes/check them? Sorry, I have AOL with retardedly slow dial up. The search function does not like to function that well for me.

 

i have no clue how to check them on an S4. also, the s4 ecu doesnt "store" any codes. its useless like homeless people and babies.

 

when checking the timing, put the timing light on one of the plug wires coming off the LEADING coil (the one closer to the front of the car) and the yellow mark on the crank pulley should be lined up (or very close) to the needle.

 

Yea, when we checked it, we put the light on L1, and it wasn't right on, like I said, it was about 1/3-1/2" off. Is that enoguh to totally screw up my idle, and make it seem like my secondaries are all screwed up?

 

just loosen up that nut on the CAS and tap it til the mark is right on center. and no, that probably wouldnt screw up your idle unless it was in conjunction with another problem.

 

Damn, I'm running cray rich too...I was over 3 times the allowable hydrocarbons. :laughing:

 

So, since the timing's off, btu won't affect the idle that much. What are some common vac leaks that would cause it to have absolutely no idle. Also, I'd like to try and tune my car so that it doesn't run so pig rich. Since I'm usign the N/A AFM, I was told that I'm runnign lean at idle, and rich under load since the flapper door spring is weaker, is this true? I'm kinda at a loss here.

 

The engine wiring harness does not completely match up with the meter wiring harness when using the turbo engine harness. Visit www.rotaryressurection.com and find where he has a write up of fixing the wiring. It's a simple fix when you know what to do.

 

Hmmm, maybe try this, on the passenger fender well, there is a tranistor with a screw on it and an aroow with L/R (which stands fo rich/lean) turn the screw til you have a smooth idle.

Also do a search on how to set the idle and timing, I know you need to set the intial (something) coupler, its up by the leading coil pack and it has two wires, tkae a short peice of wire and loop it into both of them. Also disconnect the BAC valve.

Then adjust the timing and adjust the idle speed by the BAC and Idle fuel mixture resistor, you then should recheck the timing to make sure all is well.

Thats a rough explaintation, I remeber it enough to do it my self but not to explain it, sorry! Oh go to www.iluvmyrx7.com and download the manual for the car, it will be in tehre as well.

 

As far as the temp gauge goes, would it be easier/more accurate for me to just run new gauge?