TII Questions...
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 52
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From: Prospect, CT USA
TII Questions...
Ok, broke my beloved 83 GSL hard. Need to get a new ride. I might be able to get my hands on a 89 TII for around 5 grand... It has 55k miles on it... Other than that I dont know much else, other than it was adult owned its entire life and spent winters in the garage... My question is, how are these cars? How's the performance of them stock and what do I have to do to modify them? I plan on getting a two chamber BOV as soon as I get it just cuz I wanna make loud "hey look at my turbo" noises. I'm turbo ignorant for the most part. What should I do to it first. I want the thing to last awhile, I dont want to be on the engine of the month club. What is a pop-off valve and should I get one of them with or instead of a BOV? Will the RB Exaust that will raise the boost also raise the chances of me blowing the engine? And how about this Fuel Cut-Off defender thingy. Basicly teach me about the mods I should do to it and about Turbos... Thanks...
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 164
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From: Columbus, Ohio
It's all about preparation and research!
Before you buy the car do a compression test. Also test drive it somewhat agressively. Hesistation, not good. Smooth and noticably progressive power up to the buzzer.
If this was an adult owned car, ask to see the maint/repair records. Hopefully they show regular maint. at 3k or even less intervals.
If this car hasn't had the 60k service done, plan on getting it done soon. It's expensive at a dealership, but it is a comprehesive check of vehicle, that is if you have a trustworthy dealership close.
Mods? See the search key on the top of this forum? Before doing ANYTHING to your car, perform a search on that particilar mod. The guys on this board know thier s#$t. Alot of expensive lessons were learned by them. DETONATION is a good keyword to search.
Good luck!
Michael
Before you buy the car do a compression test. Also test drive it somewhat agressively. Hesistation, not good. Smooth and noticably progressive power up to the buzzer.
If this was an adult owned car, ask to see the maint/repair records. Hopefully they show regular maint. at 3k or even less intervals.
If this car hasn't had the 60k service done, plan on getting it done soon. It's expensive at a dealership, but it is a comprehesive check of vehicle, that is if you have a trustworthy dealership close.
Mods? See the search key on the top of this forum? Before doing ANYTHING to your car, perform a search on that particilar mod. The guys on this board know thier s#$t. Alot of expensive lessons were learned by them. DETONATION is a good keyword to search.
Good luck!
Michael
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 207
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From: Leeds, Al, U.S.
"My question is, how are these cars?"
These cars in my opion are great. They are the best bang for the buck; a great all around performance car.
"How's the performance of them stock and what do I have to do to modify them?"
The 89-91(2)(is rare carry over year) have 200 hp factory and the 87-88 have 180 hp factory. Really i wanted a 89-91 but got a 88 instead..I LOVE IT..so really if it is a turbo it is fine you will pay more for a 89-91 than a 87-88 unless the 88 is a anniversary edition..those depend on condition as to price. On modifying them. I always thought you had to do fuel stuff first to keep from popping the motor..some might argue with me about this; but you can run 10 psi on stock fuel system before you run into trouble. IF it were me i would stay at like 8 psi just to be on the safe side. so with normal bolt on stuff you could see boost spikes up to 15 psi and that isn't good(that is the wastegates fault..i think they suck from the factory). You should safely be able to do a exhaust and intake with a fuel cut defender(FCD). But you should get some guages(spelling?) before you do that stuff i mentioned. Exhaust gas temp(EGT) Rich/Lean guage, boost guage..stock usually is kinda sucky on anything. That is all i can think of guage wise off the top of my head. Also if you get it and run it hard let it "cool down" before you turn it off. Mazda says 30 seconds. Dont know why they say that exactly. My thought is they know most people wont wait so they figure it is a miracle if anyone waits that long. I really don't know why they say that..maybe that was oldschool thought. Rule of thumb is about 2 minutes for a hard run maybe a little longer if you ran it really hard. You can get a Turbo timer for that so you dont have to sit in the car for that time. If you get into high horsepower then you will have to do fuel stuff. I think you can get a Super AFC with stock injectors they might not work a swell..but i thing they will..that controls how much fuel you put in the mixture....i.e. lean or richen it out. You would need a bigger fuel pump...and bigger fuel injectors..not sure on sizes. You can get 350 horsepower out of the stock turbo but you have to "work" the stock turbo over. A budy of mine can do this for you he has a turbo shop. I think he told me his stage 3 package was going to have 400 horsepower. Oh the stock intercooler is only good for somewhere in the neighborhood of 13 to 14 psi..cant rememer exactly, that is why i said "neighborhood".
A pop off valve pops off at a preset level to keep the engine from blowing. A blow off valve(BOV) vents the excess boost that the turbo makes to keep it from serging. The turbo is spinning in the direction it spins when it is making boost. When you let out the turbo wants to start spinning the opposite way which is bad..that is why the BOV vents the boost out. There is one on the car stock but you cant hear it. It vents back into the air box. There is a way to make it vent to atmosphere but i tried it and it never worked for me i would just get a aftermarket one.
If you stick with the rb exhaust get the FCD and a intake..with those guages i was talking about you should be ok. I am pretty sure the rb web site says you need the FCD. Well if I am wrong then someone will correct me ...damn i wrote alot.well
later..good luck
These cars in my opion are great. They are the best bang for the buck; a great all around performance car.
"How's the performance of them stock and what do I have to do to modify them?"
The 89-91(2)(is rare carry over year) have 200 hp factory and the 87-88 have 180 hp factory. Really i wanted a 89-91 but got a 88 instead..I LOVE IT..so really if it is a turbo it is fine you will pay more for a 89-91 than a 87-88 unless the 88 is a anniversary edition..those depend on condition as to price. On modifying them. I always thought you had to do fuel stuff first to keep from popping the motor..some might argue with me about this; but you can run 10 psi on stock fuel system before you run into trouble. IF it were me i would stay at like 8 psi just to be on the safe side. so with normal bolt on stuff you could see boost spikes up to 15 psi and that isn't good(that is the wastegates fault..i think they suck from the factory). You should safely be able to do a exhaust and intake with a fuel cut defender(FCD). But you should get some guages(spelling?) before you do that stuff i mentioned. Exhaust gas temp(EGT) Rich/Lean guage, boost guage..stock usually is kinda sucky on anything. That is all i can think of guage wise off the top of my head. Also if you get it and run it hard let it "cool down" before you turn it off. Mazda says 30 seconds. Dont know why they say that exactly. My thought is they know most people wont wait so they figure it is a miracle if anyone waits that long. I really don't know why they say that..maybe that was oldschool thought. Rule of thumb is about 2 minutes for a hard run maybe a little longer if you ran it really hard. You can get a Turbo timer for that so you dont have to sit in the car for that time. If you get into high horsepower then you will have to do fuel stuff. I think you can get a Super AFC with stock injectors they might not work a swell..but i thing they will..that controls how much fuel you put in the mixture....i.e. lean or richen it out. You would need a bigger fuel pump...and bigger fuel injectors..not sure on sizes. You can get 350 horsepower out of the stock turbo but you have to "work" the stock turbo over. A budy of mine can do this for you he has a turbo shop. I think he told me his stage 3 package was going to have 400 horsepower. Oh the stock intercooler is only good for somewhere in the neighborhood of 13 to 14 psi..cant rememer exactly, that is why i said "neighborhood".
A pop off valve pops off at a preset level to keep the engine from blowing. A blow off valve(BOV) vents the excess boost that the turbo makes to keep it from serging. The turbo is spinning in the direction it spins when it is making boost. When you let out the turbo wants to start spinning the opposite way which is bad..that is why the BOV vents the boost out. There is one on the car stock but you cant hear it. It vents back into the air box. There is a way to make it vent to atmosphere but i tried it and it never worked for me i would just get a aftermarket one.
If you stick with the rb exhaust get the FCD and a intake..with those guages i was talking about you should be ok. I am pretty sure the rb web site says you need the FCD. Well if I am wrong then someone will correct me ...damn i wrote alot.well
later..good luck
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