Wow...at 11 psi with a stage 3 I hit 300 rwhp..and I thought I was dissapointed Boost definately isn't an issue. And with a standalone you throw flames like that?! Wow...I'm jealous haha

 

problem is it shouldn't throw flames if it is properly tuned...

i assume he was just playing with the mixtures at that point though.

 

It'll still shoot flames if properly tuned if you're beating on it at the track

Wankel7- Does the car actually feel like 200whp? Is there any correction that needs to input?

 

Just about all the flames we got were on throttle off situations when I just let the throttle close completely. The only other times was when I played with the throttle on decel which yeilded very large flamage!

BTW I drove the car while he tuned, which is why I seem to know a bit about the car/situation....

 

Lightened flywheel??? try N370 and corresponding counterweight (could be automatic counterweight)... From my point of view it will rev high like a motorcycle but it will not push as good... Just my opinion... Would you mind showing us the fuel maps so we can help you a bit more??? Timming is off a little also... Remember exhaust porting affects timing also, if you go too far timing will not go where you want...

 

it has way more serious issues than those to lose 100+RWHP

i was also thinking maybe the dyno has an issue, does the car feel like a high 14 second car or in the 12-13 second range?

 

This is why...if you don't know what you're doing, pay someone who does to tune the car.

First, I agree...your ignition timing is too conservative.
The Hitman ignition timing maps are way too conservative.
No excuse with a dyno, just keep bumping the ignition timing up until the power starts to drop.
When you get too advanced, the power will drop significantly.
I would easily add 5...maybe even 10 degrees to your ignition timing numbers, if those are actually total advance degrees on your datalogs.

Second, even at 11.0:1, it still to lean.
Play with the AFR...**** the wide-band.
If you're on the dyno, the dyno will tell you if you're doing this right.
Always add more fuel first, and then go the other way.
As long as you're making more power, keep going that direction.
Once you hit peek power, add just a tad more fuel to keep the engine safe on the street.


-Ted

 

How do you adjust fuel with a stock fpr???? What is the egt when reaching peak rpm's???

 

Uh, a stand alone?

Peak EGTs were around 940C-960C through a Greddy 52mm gauge which has around 2800 miles on it tops from what I know of the car and its use.

 

Just upload your hitman map and we'll take a look at it and tell you what you can do exactly...

 

step 1 is to make sure that the timing is zero'd right, ive done that, -10 degrees more retarded than you think, is slOOOOOOOOW. ive also gone the other way, 20degrees more than you think on a 20b pulls like a freight train!

 

Amen to that.. My car only throws flames if I rape the **** out of it.

 

Ted,

They dyno could possibly be in question, but not by that much. At SevenStock, I made 298 on the Rotary Reliability dyno, then came here to Tucson and made 347 on the ApexR dyno. Myself and Trevor did some mild retuning and it may have made a difference, but I dont think it was 50 HP of a difference. Either way, I am going back on friday to see if I can hit 400 wheel on stock ports.. Hope I dont blow anything..

 

It is...to a point.
You've got a several tens of thousands of dollars worth of tuning tool right under your nose, and you don't even know it.
Too many people get caught up with AFR numbers and staring at the wide-band.
This is a good example.

Also, the absolute numbers don't really matter.
As long as the dyno show and increase (or decrease), that's all that matters.
Use the dyno as a tuning tool - it's more powerful that almost single sensor / gauge / monitor package as long as you know how to use it.

It's really no excuse to not be able to get the most out of your car from a dyno session, unless you don't have the money / **** of the dyno owners / dunno what you're doing.


-Ted

 

Well, I think J is a tad bit upset with the low number. Not getting hung up on the number is a good point, but I think that car has MUCH more potential with some better tuning, then the numbers seem to indicate.

 

This has been popping up finally this last page. What type of dyno were you on. Was it a mustang dyno? I have seen easy of 50 to 90hp differences from style of dyno. There is a formula to use when using one of the few like mustang dynos to take the displayed number and get your actual output.

 

I was referring to dyno correction here already.

 

Dynojet

 

Get that car up to 15 psi so you can warp your RA seals.

 

Thank you to all the folks that chimed in on this thread. Santiago and I have done so much work to this car and I hope we can make it come together.

Thanks Jrat and Trevor for your advice...

At least ONE thing in the setup is doing its job...the FMIC. Notice the intake temps on the dyno 75F? I think ambient that day was 60F. Not to bad.

When I get home I am going to try this to see what we can uncover:

1. Take off the pre silencer and do a run make sure for some reason the exhaust isnt a restriction

2. Wire the wastegate open to test how good the BNR wastegate enlargement really is.

3. Wire the wastegate SHUT to test how good the boost response is. No, I wont floor it

4. Change the trailing timing to increase the split more than I have. I will mimic Jrats maps to get it at the 8* + split that was recommended

5. I will also increase the leading advance as recommended.

6. Start fattening up the fuel at all ranges

7. Install the MBC and set it up for 15 psi. I know having no boost controller should kill power.

8. Contemplate why my fresh rebuild with new housings and RA seals is doing 90psi hot compression (230rpm @ 700' on S4 TII rotors) after a 2000 mile break in.

At that point if no positive progress was made...anybody want a clean TII...I could do a dDub. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2060845




JK



James

 

No, it really feels like it did before I did the bigger turbo, intercooler, haltech.

I knew something was up before I took her to the dyno.

Yeah, I know Ted...this is my first standalone and I am really green too it. I feel like I have enough background to learn it the hardway. Hopfully , not costing me an engine. I will take your advice to the next dyno time. Thank you .

The datalogs match the timing maps within a degree or so.

James

 

What for? I have NO problems with the Porting on mine! The only theoretical problem you may have is that the gates are getting blown open. Seems to be a typical problem with the BNR, and Bryan will install a stronger spring in your actuator if thats the problem (will increase base boost though).

I am going to 8 because I think the alcohol injection will suppress any additional knock I may get, however lots run 8 degree split without alcohol. You did get some pulls off with a low split (3-4 deg), but I wouldnt do it again. Also, my split map is basically the Hitman map until boost comes on, then its just a flat 12 deg ran all the way out.

Interestingly enough, there seems to be alot of controversy surrounding the management of the split, and some even remove the trailing plugs and cap the plug hole off. However, with all the research myself and Trevor have done, the dyno seems to show 8-12 yielding max power without risk of pre-ignition.

Rat

 

for the compression test hook it up to a battery charger or jumper so there is pl;enty of reserve cranking power and hold the throttle wide open, this should give you a more accurate reading regardless of the guage.

 

Here is a link to my map...




Yeah, I used the RB street exhaust port template. Rather conservitive.



And the secondaries: RB Streetport template:



I was using 9s in all four holes on the dyno. And the plugs were 10 miles fresh.

The other thing on the dyno that bothered us...

Santiago and I were doing load based tuning... so it was hard on the car...when she was floored holding the RPM and boost for tuning. The oil temps came up FAST. Like you could see the needle moving. It went from 170-230 in no time.

Now, the only fan infront of the car was a large barn fan...but still...wow.

James

 

This might be part of the timing issue, I cannot appreciate it very well due to the angle but from this imaginary line I traced it kinda looks low... But again this is a first glance... let me look more into it along with some timings and maps...