Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

so ive searched and have yet to come up to why it wont start.

I parked the car after the alt. went out and i didnt have any money at all so i decided to put the efan i had laying around on it.
so i grounded it out to my engine bay, wired it up to the positive terminal on my batt, then grounded it out again on this metal piece below the middle piece (i removed it a while ago)

I then bought another alternator, but the ground to the terminal broke so i cut it off and got another ground that i could find and its an odd one,but you screw it onto the wire kinda like a battery terminal except with a ground. ( btw my alternator terminal is way to close to my intercooler piping now)

and then i gave it an oil change, got new plugs, and cleaned to wires.

so then i took the battery out my 10ae (which is a brand new, but piece of **** economy battery) to start the car and all it did was crank.

i tried deflooding it multiple times and it didnt work.

i know im getting fuel because my fuel pressure gauge shows it.

idk if im getting spark though but if im not how do i fix that?

and any other suggestions?

i know this is long but i wanted to be detailed.

and flamers not wanted.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I'm not sure what you're refering to with all of the 'grounds' you mention. To check spark just pull a plug wire off and stick a spare plug in there and set it on your strut tower or something so that the bottom of the plug is touching the bolt there and have someone crank, you should see the plug sparking pretty easily. Can you describe what you mean about the grounding thing better?

The alternator doesn't have a ground going to it at all, it works through the casing. Do you mean the ring connector that goes onto the black post coming off the back? That's a direct feed to the battery. Do all of your normal lights/etc function? It may be possible that a fuse popped if that alternator terminal touched something.

Oh, it's also helpful to verify your plug wires are in the proper order. I've seen them get out of whack every once in a while when people change plugs/etc and that can cause quite the headaches.

Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

yes i was talking about the black posting and it did touch my intercooler piping but all my lights still work, and i will probably check the spark tommorrow morning then.

and also i have a three prong switch, i forgot how i wired it up, but i remeber i had wire one prong to the battery, then then another one had to ground it out on the metal piece, and then the third one went to the fan i think im not sure though. and i had to ground the fan out to the body. i think thats how it went im not exactly sure but i can find out tommorrow, and thats the second fc i used that fan on and the ways i wired it and it worked fine the first time.

idk if that clears it up for you.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

It sounds like you're just switching the +12V feed to the fan and doing it by hand, which would work. (It may burn up your switch though do to the high AMP load when the fan starts spinning). I don't think that'll be whats causing your issue though. I would check the 'MOTOR' fuse in the fuseblock under the dash, and the MAIN and EGI fuses under the hood. If those all look good check spark and get back with us.

gxlturbo2

iTrader: (3)

if the main fuse is blown it won't crank but if the egi fuse is blown it won't spark

HAILERS

Much like was suggested above, sounds like you blew the ENGINE fuse in the interior or both EGI fuse are bad in the engine bay.

I'd totally remove ANY wiring you installed and then try starting the engine. Get back to the basics.

Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

main fuse is good, i got the egi fuses from my 10ae and put them in there, i swapped out the ignition coils from my 10thae in there too, i have the battery hooked up to a charger so it won die on me from cranking it too much.

im completely lost, you guys have any other suggestions?

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Did you check to see if you had spark?

drftinmx6

iTrader: (6)

do a compression test.

Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

i will check for spark but i thought changing the coils would fix it.

also i tried push starting the car and nothing happened at all, i could hear the transmission turning and the car giving compression but the rpms didnt even raise.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

That sounds like a spark issue. I'd check for spark first and see what you've got. After that I'd start checking for power @ the ECU, then the coils/etc.

Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

i pulled out the first trailing plug and i dont have spark

Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

so im not getting spark at all
i did a little bit of a quick search and do i put in another ecu?
im running an rtek 2.1 right now just to put that out there.

or is there any way that i can find out why it isnt working?

the main fuse is good, both egi fuses are good and so is the engine fuse inside.

HAILERS

Does the RTEK/PALM show battery voltage? Does it show any faults Diagnostic Screen)? Does the Palm show any display at all? I assume the RTEK 2.1 is being used with a Palm display. It's a great trouble shooting tool if it has a display up and running.

If the Palm can show what the Battery power is, then the ECU is most likely getting power. The ECU using CAS input signals causes the Lead and Trail ignitors to *fire*.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Check the ECU, I'd check for power & while you're down there get the FSM FUEL AND EMISSIONS control section open and go to the page that explains each pin on the ECU, you can go through and test the majority of them with the key to ON which should help a good bit.

Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

i put in my old ecu i still ahve the same problem.

and yeh the rtek has hte palm the only problem is my battery died on the palm and i need to upload the rtek program on it agian but i cant find it.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

You're going to need to get the multimeter out and start checking. Starting at the ECU is the first place and if all is good there moving outward to the coils.

Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

my rtek said it was the cas, so i changed it and im still having the same problems and its still saying its the cas. im stumped.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Get a multimeter and check the ecu. Everything else is a waste of time. If you started there instead of swapping ecus and the cas you might have found the cause.

Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

yeah i figured man, not to sound like a noob but compared to you i am do you have a link or something on how i check hte ecu with my multimeter.

Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

my multimeter read that both of ecus dont have the cas working or whatever its at zero the problem is that both of those ecus worked good.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

what year car? Did you check the other pins? Also check the wiring at the CAS. Let's make sure it's just that and not more.

Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

its an 88 TII, yeah i did and they were reading some power, and the ecu is getting power also from teh battery. yeah i checked the wiring at the cas, the sensor is good, its just not getting power.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I'm on my phone at the moment but you'll need to get the wiring diagram and check all the various connectors.

Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

i checked all the connectors for the cas on both ecus and both of them read zero.

and also when i pull out the egi comp fuse usually theres this fan behind my intercooler i think its the stock ac fan or whatever turns on. and now it just turns on with the fuse in when i put the car in the on position. i got a new fuse just to make sure and its still doing it.

thanks for you help btw, and im about to just blow up my car. ive been working on it for days and i still havent ogt any where.