lxk199

I had some trouble doing my TID Mod because I couldn't find a detailed write-up for an S4, so here is what I did:

Firstly, you have to get the parts. Most of these can be found at Lowe's/Home Depot, and any exhaust shop can do
the steel pipe bending.

Parts needed are:

(1)-a 2.5" or 3" piece of aluminized steel pipe, roughly 12 inches long with a 43 degree bend in the middle.
This length and angle will allow this TID to clear the stock air pump, for those
of you with emissions in your state.
(2)-Rubber Couplers, of the sizes 2.5" to 2.5" (or 3" if you got that size piping), and one to reduce from
the previous size to 2" to fit on the turbo inlet. Make sure these have hose clamps on them.
(3)-a 3/4" drill bit or uni-bit that goes up to that size, and a 5/8" bit. These will be used for drilling
into the steel piping. Use an electric drill if possible, because of the higher speeds.
(4)-Threaded brass Barbs (one end threaded and the other barbed), to place in the TID Pipe. One should be
3/4" exterior diameter (threaded end), and the other should be 5/8" exterior diameter (threaded end). Also
remember to get hose clamps that will fit around hoses placed over these barbs.
(5)-Hosing. Just in case your stock vac lines aren't long enough. One 12" piece to fit each of the above barbs.
(6)-Epoxy for metal or some other sealant to plug the holes around the threaded barbs.
(7)-Zip Ties, for your stock BOV line that goes back into the block, as it is too small to get with a hose clamp.

OK so now that you have the parts, you are ready to begin assembly:
(1)-Take your stock AFM off of the TID and remove the plug off of it (use a screwdriver to move the little springs,
and DON'T UNSCREW THE CONNECTOR, as this will pull stuff off of the circuit board, a hassle you DON'T want to deal
with later on. Put the AFM aside as you will obviously need it later. Most likely, the stock TID will be cracked
at the bottom near the turbo, and this will cause a rough idle and the TID should pull off easily because of the crack.
(2)-Cover your turbo so no foreign objects like dirt or cats and mice get into it. This is a good time to clean off
the inlet of the turbo of debris/oil.
(3)-Secure the steel pipe in a vise (not too tight) or hold it down on the ground with your feet. Begin drilling the
pipe with a small drill bit then eventually work up to the uni-bit or final size bits. Drill the hole for the BOV
(the 3/4" hole) on the side of the pipe that will go towards the turbo, at about a 90 degree angle. The other hole
(5/8") is placed on the opposite side of the bend, but parallel to the BOV hole. The holes should be about 7 inches
apart on the same face of the pipe. CLEAN ALL SHAVINGS OUT FROM THE INSIDE OF THE PIPE, you DON'T want that going
into your turbo and breaking the fins!
(4)-Thread the barbs into the holes. If you have a tap big enough for the BOV hole, consider yourself lucky, as I
had to tap it by hand. Make sure the barbs are secure in the holes and don't move around, then seal the holes with
the sealant you bought earlier. Let the sealant dry for as long as necessary, then move on to the next steps.
(5)-Assemble the couplings onto the pipe, with the reducer going on the same side as the BOV and the straight coupler
on the other side, near the other hole (air return). Tighten the hose clamps with a screwdriver or socket, and make sure to
orient the remaining clamps so that you can tighten them with the TID fitted into place on the turbo. At this time,
you should do a test-fitting on the turbo to make sure the new TID will clear the Air Pump and your air filter/AFM will
fit under the hood. Put all parts together loosely and slide the TID onto the turbo. There should be roughly 2" of
clearance under the air pump, and the filter should be snug against the piece of metal behind the headlight (K&N Style Filter).
(6)-With the pipe fitted (take it back to the shop for resizing if necessary), you should now plug in your BOV and
Air return line (the other hole you drilled). Use vacuum hose if yours is too short to reach from the BOV. Make sure
the One-Way valve on the air return line is facing its original direction (it's a good idea to not remove it from the
hose in the first place). Use a length of hose between this valve and the barb on the pipe. Clamp or Zip Tie all the
hoses. Look for and remedy all kinks in hosing.
(7)-Tighten all hose clamps and make sure the fitting around the turbo (and all other fittings) is TIGHT, as you don't
want a vacuum leak. Make sure (again) your hood will close and your air pump belt will not rub against the TID.
Remember to keep the AFM in its original horizontal position, with the black plate on top.
(8)-Plug in your AFM and go over all the bolts and hose clamps for safety.
(9)-Start your car. Wait for it to warm up and you will notice how smooth and sexy your idle is compared to before.
After it's up to Operating Temperature, go out for a ride and enjoy your new, better-breathing TID.

I hope everyone enjoys this somewhat detailed, and extremely long Write-Up for the S4's, and if you have any questions,
PM me or e-mail me at lxk199@psu.edu. Also point out any errors (and there shouldn't be any-I checked and double-checked)
to me via PM or e-mail. I make no apologies for the length of this post, but I hope everyone that needs it gets something
out of my experience.