Fritz_X

iTrader: (1)

Well I know this isn't the most specific description of a problem but it is all I can think of to describe it. When I am just coasting in gear and then I get on the accelerator there is a thump almost like my drivetrain is being yanked. This also happens at the start of a new gear when I shift. If I double clutch however and gently match the rpms this doesn't happen.

This is a recent problem so I am trying to figure out what has changed to make it so. The only thing that I can think of but I don't know how it would affect it is that my Throw-out Bearing is pretty much shot. I need to change it out bad and a pretty good whirring can be heard when car is just idling with clutch pedal out. What could be causing this large jolt, and thumping noise, the location I would peg as either the axle or drivetrain. I can't figure it out, but it is bugging the shiet out of me and I want it fixed.

Also if I am coasting and I get on the gas very gingerly and slowly get it past that initial point of pushing the pedal I can floor it without the thump/jolt.

Thank you for whatever help you guys can give me. Just an idea could it possibly be my TPS needs to be adjusted?

--Fritz

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Broken front differential mount. Not too costly of a part (under $100) but a real bitch to replace...you have to drop the rear subframe at least a few inches, if not all the way. Depending on your skill level, this can take you anywhere from 2 hours to 2 days.

Carl Byck

Or a broken rear subframe...

Fritz_X

iTrader: (1)

You are sure? This is not what I was really hoping to hear, haha. How soon should I fix this like tomorrow before I drive, next week, what? Also if it is possible for you to give me a little more detailed instruction on how to do this I would greatly appreciate, however if it is a real pain in the *** I understand hehe . Only other question is what did I do to break the mount? Or is it just one of those things on the FC's that goes in time (like everything else ) Oh, well. Whatever the case thank you for answering my question RR

--Fritz

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Hard shifts and racing stress the mount, but they break over time regardless.

The test for this is put the car in 1st gear and roll at 10mph...stomp the gas, let off, repeat. You'll hear it thump each time you change the load.

Fritz_X

iTrader: (1)

lol I did this yesterday and earlier today to see when it happens and doesn't. What you describe is DEAD on. Jolts with every hard acceleration much more noticeable in gears 1 2 and 3. How soon should I get this fixed and what other problems am i going to experience, should I look out for, in tandem with the broken mount?

--Fritz

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

IT wont tear anything up, but it should be fixed as soon as you can. Driving like this for a while can result in ujoint failure.

IF you cant get to it for a while, use some wood blocks to stop the play. Most of the diff mounts have a rubber chunk mounted to the front of them...it sits about 1/2" offf the floorpan. Put a piece of plywood in between there as a temporary fix, to keep the play out of it.

Fritz_X

iTrader: (1)

Agh, RR if I am not an expert with car maintenance which I won't even pretend to be, I mean I can use the service manual but I am pretty green when it comes to real car-work, would you suggest going for it myself, or taking it to a shop? If I take it to a shop how reamed am I going to get most likely on labor? Is it more worth it to try and learn fast about differential mounts and do it myself? I just don't my car FUBAR because of my DIY stupidity.

BTW, Thanks SOO MUCH for all your help. I love seeing people actually answer questions. (even more so when they are my questions )

--Fritz

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

You need at least one, preferably 2 big jacks to do the job, or 2-3 strong friends. IT isnt too bad really, the only issues come when bolts are rusted into place (northern cars). Be sure to wear eye protectiopn, dirt to the eyeball sucks. You'll need 17mm socket, wrench, 14mm socket, extensions, 21mm (IIRC, perhaps 22mm) socket, that is about it. Oh, a prybar would be helpful too.

IF you can do a clutch job, you can do this, with a bit of help. IF you couldnt do a clutch job, best let someone else do it. Expect to pay $150-400 in labor, plus parts cost.

Fritz_X

iTrader: (1)

I am looking through service manual between these posts and in the differential section I can't seem to find anything about the front mount do you happen to know what page it is? Or what it would be listed under.

--Fritz

Fritz_X

iTrader: (1)

Also where would be the best place to get the mount? A Mazda dealership or mazdatrix.com? Where do you think?

--Fritz

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

You can get stock ones at a dealer, mazdaformance, or anywhere else that sells stock stuff. You can get comp mounts somewhere, but I am not sure where.

Fritz_X

iTrader: (1)

Alright, thanks I will look into those places. Looks like it may be time to sell the ol' guitar or paintball gun, lol. That or take up the lifestyle of a gigalo and go door to door in my neighborhood. Being a college student sucks the big one when it comes to money.

--Fritz

andrew lohaus

mazdaformance sells the comp mount for like $90 i gota do mine her soon once i find the time and $$$

GEINN FC3S

got the competition mount from mazdatrix for around 90 bucks, i paid my buddy 40 bucks to help me, that **** was a bitch too, took us like 6 hours, lol good luck and have fun, it is a lil easier if the mount is broken split in two pieces, since it is rubber and metal as one piece, to lower the subframe better. lol have fun and buy a 6 pk of soda or beer before u start =)

Fritz_X

iTrader: (1)

If someone could give a half decent write up on this, or if you could just direct me as to what I should be looking for in the service manual, that would be awesome! Thanks!

--Fritz