I know I'm gonna get the search ****'s on me for this one, but the link in the faq and the link that is generously given out on this forum tells me that I have to adjust it, it doesn't tell me HOW to adjust it, nor does it tell me the voltages (the two lamp thing seems kinda shakey to me) So if anyone could be so kind as to tell me the proper voltages for the sensor, I would be truly thankful.

Jerry

 

You gotta be kiddin' me. There are at least a gazillion threads that deal with adjusting the TPS. Do a simple search using "TPS Adjustment" and you will find what you're looking for and more. BTW, those in the know say you adjust for resistance not voltage.

Signed,

Self-appointed, temporary search ****.

 

Thank you for pointing me in the right direction, I was using "setting" rather than "adjusting" Here is where I found my answer (After reading through what seemed like a thousand posts telling the person to search) I'll just link it here again to maybe save someone some time in the future.



http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=58&co=1&vi=1

 

I just did this today, and it definatly helps low rpm driving. I'd highly recomend cleaning the terminals as mine were oxidizing and wouldnt make any sort of connection with the digital multi-meter. I used a small file to clean the terminals. Good luck!

 

bleh, it turned out not to be my problem. i can't figure it out. The idle will surge when it's doing the warm up thing, then after its warm it will settle at about 850 and be fine. Then I can drive and not have any real problems, well, except for the drop to 500 rpm when I come to a stop with the clutch in. Anyway, whats bugging me is that even after it's warm and idling fine, I can raise the rpm to 1500 and it will start to surge, it will drop about 500 rpm and return to 1500 repeatedly. Then when I raise it to 2000 it will drop to 500. If I gently try to raise it above 2000 it will just sputter, but if I give it more than just gentle throttle it will raise right up. What in the world could be doing this?

 

Set it to output one volt when the engine is fully warmed up. Only crackpots adjust it to the ohms method.

 

I checked that too. I'm getting the ohms suggested by some, as well as 1v suggested by others. I'm beginning to think that it's not the setting of the tps. Is it possible for the tps to have a dead spot? Also, I noticed while digging around that there is a metal tube by the firewall that is just there, there is no hose comming off of it, but it runs to my charcoal canister. Also there is what appears to be a nossle of sorts below it and also by the firewall (kind of in the middle but low) that has nothing connected to it. I saw these and was wondering if they are for diagnostic purposes, or if there might possibly be a hose that goes in between them. The guy I bought the car from put in a new spedometer cable and I think he may have taken stuff off to get to the area he was working on, but may not have put things back together right. I have however (with the engine running at normal temp) put my finger over the metal tube end, and I can't feel any suction or blowing, and covering it tight with my thumb does nothing noticable. Are these important?

 

Charcoal plumbing is not important.............until the emissions guy sees it disconnected.

Try this. Fully warm the engine. Fully hot and let it idle.

Pull the plug off the BAC. The rpms might drop just a hundred maybe but no more. When you did this, did the engine die on you?

Died? Idle speed is set wrong. Set the idle speed after you get a timing light out and make sure the timing is right. The TPS is already set, IF you set it with a fully HOT engine. If you set it with a tepid engine or cold engine, then it's not set right due to the waterthermowax device/fast idle cam etc.

The BAC tries to maintain an idle of approx 750 rpm at idle. But if the idle without the BAC in the picture is almost non existent, then the BAC is having to work it butt off to maintain a good idle and is getting plenty tired of carrying the load for all those other fellows. So to speak on an early sunday morning.

 

There's nothing really wrong with the two light method. IF the car is fully warmed up when you do it.

The two lights represent a ground being put on the Relief solenoid by one light being on and a ground being put on the Switching solenoid by the other light being on..

When done adjusting the TPS, the ECU will be putting a gnd on the Relief solenoid (Blue plug) and no gnd on the Switching solenoid (Grau plug).

And it happens that when this condition is met, you will find approx 1vdc being output by the green/red wire on the harness side of the TPS connector. Plus in the INPUT/OUTPUT chart in the FSM it states that at idle the TPS pin 2G, will show approx 1vdc.

TPS can have dead spots in them. That's bout the only time I'd bother to ohm one out and I'd do it with a old time swing (Tex Beneke) meter. Its very inlikely that is your problem.

 

I am curious did you check the codes. The reason I am asking you is my 91N/A had the same problem and the codes told me it was the narrow band of the TPS. After it was replaced the surging at startup was gone.

 

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html