I have all the nuts off and everything unhooked but the tb wont come off. Am I gonna have to pry it off?

 

A whack with a deadblow will probably drop it right off.

 

^^^^ What he said. I used a rubber mallet. Same concept. You just need to break the seal.

 

I recommend dynomite and a long fuse.

 

Where should I hit it at, the motor is still in the car.

 

Smack it along the thick black plastic gasket between the throttle body and the upper intake manifold. Once the seal is broken, you may remove it.

 

This **** wont budge I hit it pretty good I need to go get a better rubber mallet I guess.

 

Its actually the UIM that im having trouble removing. Sorry Im still learning.

 

Post a picture if you can and point to what your having trouble removing.

 

1st pic is what im working on now. Look at that hose in the other pics of the tb it looks burnt.

 

Thanks for the pictures. I dont have any na fc's. However, looking at the 1st picture, follow the runners across the engine and when they turn downward there should be a flange I believe. Remove the bolts. Hit the flange from the exhaust side with your mallet. If that doesn't work, stand on the subframe/steering rack (hooray for no pistons!) and try yanking upward and downward on the upper intake manifold to break the seal.

Let me know how it goes.

 

I just took my UIM off a couple weeks ago to fix a fuel leak.

There's 4 nuts on the passenger side, a long bolt between the runners under the TB, and a few bolts on the other side near the solenoids that need to be taken out in order to get it off. You'll probably have to pull the AWS solenoid off to get to one of them.

Hope that helps!

 

Hit the FAQ and download an FSM.

 

See the First pic that you put up in Post #10?
there is a 10mm bolt that holds the solenoid rack to the upper manifold in that bracket.

 

I'm with Hozzman for dynomite...

 

Looks like I may have taken this TB off for a good reason. I was just gonna clean her up but now Im having some idle issue on my working car. I had been messing with the bac cleaned it up also switched the tps from the old to new car. The tps is set at 1 volt now but my car wont idle under 1 k now and it does the idle surge thing now way worse then before I took the bac's off and switched them. It revs up to 3k on start up then starts bouncing. So I was looking at the 2 TB's I have which are the same. The one on the car thats working looks broken. The piece that holds the throttle cable drops when I manually move the throttle lever or w/e its called. And on my other TB which isn't hooked up doesn't seem to do that at WOT. So would this piece of the TB have anything to do with my wacked out idle problem. Should I switch the TB's and see what happens?
Also on the third pic I have up in here can I just cut that piece off a lil to fix it. I think thats one of the coolant lines.

 

Got it all switch up, the car reved to like 4k and keep climbing so I quickly shut it off. Instantly I thought throttle cable. Anyone know the proper way to make sure its set correct?

 

I got the idle down to 1500 but cant get it any lower, and the surging is now gone. If I can figure this throttle cable out I think that would fix it.

 

Here man I had idle issues similar to this. Follow this link read threw it. You may need to adjust your fast idle screw on the back of the throttle body for the thermowax. Read threw the post there will be pictures showing you how to do it and where things are. Best way is to do it while the throttle body is off the car. If you have trouble getting the thermowax warm try a hair dryer works great. My car's idle was high to couldn't figure it out then found this helped a ton!!!!
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-valve-885653/

 

Thanks for that link man, lots of good info in there. And I'm back to working on these TB's. I have 2 and both of them have issues. So now I'm just looking to get 1 of them to full working state. On 1 of them the piece where the throttle cable hooks in is acting funny, I thing the springs are to loose or broken. Can these springs be replaced? My other question is from the other 1 and I found that either the primary or secondary plates idk which is stuck. Its the plates on the side closest to the intake elbow.I did manage to loosen it so I can move it by hand but It doesnt snap shut or go back to the position it should when the throttle is released. To remove this there are phillips screws attaching it and they will not move. I havnt stripped the screws yet but if I can find a diff way to fix this that would be great. And sure I could go buy a working 1 but I would like to fix it and learn all I can while doing it. It would be nice to get the TB with the broken spring to work since those plates work smooth so any input is good. Thanks for the help fellas. And I still have a high idle at around 1100 but I think that will come down once I pull the TB again and check the fast idle cam.

 

Still no luck It starts up at around 1800 now but wont come down unless I put it in gear. Then its at 1100-1300. Maybe I should start looking for a new one...

 

maybe you have a vacuum leak, did you replace all the old lines while you had everything off?

 

As I have all the emissions stuff removed there is only a few vac lines left, I doubt that would solve it since it was idling fine before I messed with everything. Just had a surge on cold warmup. Im going back out to mes with it again. I fixed a spring on 1 of my TB's and I screwed the fast idle screw for the thermowax all the way in. I gotta switch tps's again n ima go fire it up.

 

Of course the car idles high during a cold start but if yours continues to idle high then you need to press upwards on the front throttle linkage to see if this drops the idle. If it does then something is causing the throttle plates to be opened more than necessary. The throttle cable, cruise control cable, Fast Idle Cam, sticky carbon coated throttle plates, misadjusted throttle stop screw could all be causes for this problem.

 

Huge update satch and other followers, I now have a 750 ish idle. By doing a number of things it finally is where it should be. So I reset the tps again and everything is perfect. Except now when I push the accelerator I can tell its not going WOT. So now which way do I adjust the cable, do I give it more slack or tighten it up? And since I removed the spring and screwed the screw all the way in does this conclude it was the thermowax. And will that affect my water temp guage I put in the coolant line up accross the top back of the TB?