seventhgear

i had the throttle body mod done onto my engine before it blew...
i am being told now by a few people with rx7's and that know rotary engines that this mod isnt good to do ...
with an engine i purchased recently i left the stock tb alone with the secondary throttle plates and etc..
well does ne one agree or dissagree on the fact that the tb mod is good? or that it isnt very good? and why ?
thanks
jack

RotaryRevn

bump

NZConvertible

There is no way doing the TB mod properly could cause an engine to blow. In fact I'm not even sure what you could do wrong that could have that much effect.
The #2 secondary throttles only do two things. They stay closed until the engine's warm to stop you romping on a cold motor, and (on Turbos) they have a dampened opening rate to avoid stumbling. Neither of these functions are so important that removing them could blow the motor.
Removing the thermowax simply means the engine won't hold a decent idle until it warms up. Again, hardly serious stuff.
Have your rotary experts explain exactly how the TB mod could cause engine failure. I'm interested to their their theories...

IWNTA20B

[QUOTE]Originally posted by seventhgear
[B]i had the throttle body mod done onto my engine before it blew...
i am being told now by a few people with rx7's and that know rotary engines that this mod isnt good to do ...

??? Who told you that???
No way a throttle mod would cause a motor to blow.

HAILERS

On the other hand, if you have a 87 n/t car, doing IT, makes no sense. The secondary outer plates are spring loaded to wide open when the car is warm. Just makes no sense to me at all on a n/t car.

NZConvertible

It's still removing a restriction in the TB. Even open throttles impede flow. There's still some benefit, just not as much as on a Turbo.

SureShot

I did it primarily to loose that 3/8" coolant line. It hardened under the UIM and failed.
The stock NA setup keeps you from WOT on a cold engine.
You didn't go WOT on a cold engine did you?

seventhgear

I DIDNT MEAN that it caused my engine to blow... no not at all... just its not good....i forget why exactly thatz why im asking u guys

SureShot

It makes a noticable difference in throttle response on a turbo.
It's more of a reliability/cleanup mod on our NA's.

skyypilot

Dammit seventhgear, is that really your girl or is that a clever photoshop job? Come on, send me a pic to prove she is yours. How does such an ugly guy get a goddess like that? I mean you don't even have a 'vert so it is not the car.

Hehehe, j/k about the ugly, dead serious about the pic. What was this post about again? Oh, yeah your TB mod is in no way responsible for your engine grenading...

seventhgear

u tell me ! is it my girl or what ? lol
maybe i am the man with photoshop !
lol
peace

Drifter101

Whoever she may be photoshopped or not, shes still a babe.

But the TB Mod in no way could be bad for your engine whatsoever in my opinion.

-Tyler

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

The only way I could ever see the tb mod killing your engine is if the grinding work from porting it was done while it was on the car! Bad idea. Metal shavings and other bad things. If you just removed the double throttle then theres no way that it caused that to happen. Just an unfortunate coincidence.

seventhgear

she is my girl.. i have millions of pics that could not be photoshopped
peace
jack

Kenteth

could have always thrown nut into the manifold...

takerwolf

So what advantage/disadvantegs does it have on a turbo? Would it cause not wanting to accelerate at just under 2k in 5th gear and kinda bucking? Er I mean if the secondary plater were not functioning correctly.

Lazy-Rx7

if the secondaries weren't function correctly then a number of thinks might go wrong. and yes that could be a symptom. they may be stuck and fluttering or just not even working.

advantages of a full throttle body mod with porting and polishing help with throttle response. in fact when you reinstall the throttle body you'll notice a big difference when you step on the gas when your driving, theres actually a learning curve to it to baby the pedal now to the new feel (i've got this from personal experience as well as other post here on the forum). also you can choose to remove the flow of coolant through the throttle body which is good because the coolant flow just warms up the air entering the throttle body. also you remove the dredded warm up system which makes your car rev up to 3k when you turn on your car. some like it, others think its worthless. visit the link on my sig for a how-to and some other info.

takerwolf

Thanks, I'll check the link out. 3K thing is already gone. So the coolant has no function in the intake? Right, I know porting/polishing will make a difference, just wondering about leaving or removing the secondaries. I'll go check the link now.

myrx7hasissues

is there a how to on performing this mod?

NZConvertible

No, the 3000rpm warm-up is controlled by the AWS solenoid. Coolant has no effect on it. The coolant goes to two valves on the the TB; the thermovalve and the thermowax.
The thermovalve disables the secondaries until the engine has warmed up. This is a good anti-idiot feature, but any sensible driver shouldn't actually need it. It's integral with the thermowax.
The thermowax opens the primary throttle slightly when the engine's cold, so that the engine can idle on its own. As the engine warms up, the throttle closes back to its normal position. If you remove the thermowax the engine won't idle until it warms up. You have to hold the throttle open to stop it from stalling.
You don't need to remove the thermowax as part of the TB mod. You just remove the #2 secondary throttles, their linkages and the shaft, and leave the thermowax as is. That way you get improved throttle response without the hassle of an engine that won't idle. It's definitely worth removing them. Throttle response is noticably improved, although you need to adjust your driving style slightly to avoid the stumbling caused by the secondaries opening suddenly. No big deal.

takerwolf

Hey, that may be one of the problems with my car. The primaries don't seem to be kicking in but it runs pretty cold. Just slightly above the bottome line of the arc. Is that cold enough to cause them to stay closed and the secondaries not kick in? How do I bypass the coolant lines? Also, I've got a s4 throttle body/intake I'll switch this weekend, remove the plates and send it off.

NZConvertible

That's too cold, and may be causing the #2 secondary plates to stay closed. I suggest you actually fix the problem instead, becuase it will be causing other problems. Start by replacing the thermostat with a new Mazda one. Stuck-open thermostats are the usual cause of cold engines.

takerwolf

Right, I'm not one to do a work around but instead the actual fix. I figured it was a stuck open thermo but since it was still in the normal operating range arc I thought it was fine. And I'd rather run cool then rich, the Mazda thermo is like a 195 isn't it?
And only reason I asked about bypassing the coolant lines is that I don't really care about the fast idle all that much and that would simplify things, had a cracked water gasket from one of those intake manifold coolant lines popping off and too many distractions.

NZConvertible

When the engines cold you are running rich. The ECU enriches the mixture when the engine's cold so that it runs smoother (like a choke on a carb). If the engine never reaches normal operating temp the ECU maintains these rich mixtures, meaning higher fuel consumption, less power and higher engine wear. Personally I hate engines that won't hold an idle for whatever reason, including when cold. I'd disable the thermowax first by disconnecting and plugging the coolant line. If you're OK with the result, yank it.

takerwolf

Thanks, and that was a mindless typo thing. I meant rather run cold then hot, no clue where rich came from.