View Poll Results: After engine Install, used/new. does it crank right away?
Starts up first time. no problems
29
70.73%
starts up, but electrical problems. or water/oil leaks.
6
14.63%
wont start nothing but problems
6
14.63%
Voters: 41. You may not vote on this poll
For those that drop in there own engines!
09-01-05, 03:23 AM
#1
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For those that drop in there own engines!
So how many people have there engine fire up on the first crank after droping a diffrent engine in? and what are the most commen Clitches?
09-01-05, 03:30 AM
#2
i am legendary
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My first rebuild last summer I dropped in, cranked for about 2 seconds and it was fired up and idling on its own. Semi-large port with partial rebuild.
Dropped in an engine with my friend into his car, he couldn't get it to start. I came over and figured out the fuel lines were switched, restabbed his CAS, fired right up after that!
All I can say is that there is always something you missed! Check every wire, connection, fuel hose, vacuum line, vacuum nipple, manifold bolt, etc. Spend the time to do it right the first time rather than having it not start and being frustrated.
Dropped in an engine with my friend into his car, he couldn't get it to start. I came over and figured out the fuel lines were switched, restabbed his CAS, fired right up after that!
All I can say is that there is always something you missed! Check every wire, connection, fuel hose, vacuum line, vacuum nipple, manifold bolt, etc. Spend the time to do it right the first time rather than having it not start and being frustrated.
09-01-05, 03:41 AM
#4
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Do you guys feel its a good idea to pressure up the fuel system first to look for leaks. or is that overkill? Just start it up and hope for the best?
09-01-05, 03:44 AM
#5
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You mean prime the system? I do that every time I drop an engine in, it's a good idea. Just pull the EGI fuse and crank for 5 seconds at a time, leaving aboutg 30-60 seconds in between each crank (don't want to overheat the starter), and do about 3-5 cranks or so. That should get the oil pressure up and everything primed. Put the fuse back in, and vroom!
09-01-05, 08:09 AM
#7
Mechanical Engineering
if you do it right then there shouldnt be any glitches. but when i dropped my engine in the bigest hurddle was probably making sure i had all the bolt where they needed to go that was the hardest part for me. and then thats it really as long as you labled everything before you take the engine out your good to go
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09-01-05, 09:23 AM
#9
I've only had /major/ trouble once, because the ******* car was out of gas... once I put gas in, it started right away and I did a burnout leaving the driveway for the 1st time 
actually, I think that's become a ritual now for all new installs.. burnout leaving the driveway!
only ONCE though, have I had it fire up and idle instantly without any hassle.. I always end up missing stuff.. once it was the main injector ground = car would not start
I always test for fuel leaks now, just put the battery in, turn the key on and wire the jumper by the pressure sensor (think its yellow).. the fuel pump will come online and you don't need to have the UIM on or anything yet!
so it's easy to find leaks.
I always preoil the motor as well, and if it's a used engine (though I'd do it on a new motor too) I change the oil after about 2 or 3 hours of running or 100 miles, whatever comes first, because usually the j-specs have NASTY-*** old oil in them
actually, I think that's become a ritual now for all new installs.. burnout leaving the driveway!
only ONCE though, have I had it fire up and idle instantly without any hassle.. I always end up missing stuff.. once it was the main injector ground = car would not start
I always test for fuel leaks now, just put the battery in, turn the key on and wire the jumper by the pressure sensor (think its yellow).. the fuel pump will come online and you don't need to have the UIM on or anything yet!
so it's easy to find leaks.
I always preoil the motor as well, and if it's a used engine (though I'd do it on a new motor too) I change the oil after about 2 or 3 hours of running or 100 miles, whatever comes first, because usually the j-specs have NASTY-*** old oil in them
09-01-05, 10:15 AM
#10
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I was real...mmm...particular when I took the engine out. I labelled just about every connector and hose, replaced nuts and bolts after removing items, and if that wasn't possible, put all the nuts/bolts for an item in a sandwich bag and labelled it. It added a couple of hours to the removal (took maybe 7 hours total), but it paid off during the installation. I pulled the EGI, cranked it over twice for about 10-15 seconds each time, plugged the EGI back in, twisted the key, and ZOOM-ZOOM 
I didn't miss a connector and there's not a drip from anywhere.
I didn't miss a connector and there's not a drip from anywhere.
09-01-05, 10:32 AM
#11
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My engine will come alive in about a month or two. I hope I have as few a problems as you guys. Question: Can I oil the engine like normal even though I'm pre-mixing? Will the EGI removal trick still work?
09-01-05, 10:58 AM
#12
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by Havoc
paid someone else to do it and do it right
Rocked up, got the keys and drove home with a massive smile on my face.
Rocked up, got the keys and drove home with a massive smile on my face.
09-01-05, 11:45 AM
#14
Originally Posted by dDuB
You mean prime the system? I do that every time I drop an engine in, it's a good idea. Just pull the EGI fuse and crank for 5 seconds at a time, leaving aboutg 30-60 seconds in between each crank (don't want to overheat the starter), and do about 3-5 cranks or so. That should get the oil pressure up and everything primed. Put the fuse back in, and vroom!
While I have never had the whole engine out, I have had most everything else under the engine bay out ant one ime or another. The first few times I always forgot something, usually the AFM plug.
09-01-05, 01:06 PM
#15
Passing life by
I spent 3 weeks trying to get mine to start. Aparently I had goten a lue of bad ECU's. The 4th ECU I obtaind was in working order. The next issue was I had the fuel lines backwords :-/ not paying enugh attention. After that car started right up!
09-01-05, 01:19 PM
#17
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Reversed fuel lines one time and had the CAS offset another.
I always reassemble the nuts and bolts onto all the little parts as I take them off the car. Then you can't lose parts and the only thing to remember is what order to put the parts back on. (Plastic bag per part if that's not possible)
The first time I did it, I was lucky enough to have a junk yard engine with rats nest intact to work off of when I reassembled the vacuum hoses without the rats nest.
ed
I always reassemble the nuts and bolts onto all the little parts as I take them off the car. Then you can't lose parts and the only thing to remember is what order to put the parts back on. (Plastic bag per part if that's not possible)
The first time I did it, I was lucky enough to have a junk yard engine with rats nest intact to work off of when I reassembled the vacuum hoses without the rats nest.
ed
09-01-05, 01:32 PM
#18
My rebuild started the first time.
Problem was that the Alternator was wired backwards and the throttle cable was too short/tight.
The car started to REV up high die to tight cable and then I went to shut it off. Bam! Nothing happens! Still running!
So here's a tip. Make sure you wire your alternator refernce wires right or th car won't shut off!!!!
Problem was that the Alternator was wired backwards and the throttle cable was too short/tight.
The car started to REV up high die to tight cable and then I went to shut it off. Bam! Nothing happens! Still running!
So here's a tip. Make sure you wire your alternator refernce wires right or th car won't shut off!!!!
09-01-05, 01:58 PM
#21
Problem 1 was not having connected the starter to power. Stupid oversight, doing too many things at once.
Problem 2 was the CAS being off. Restabbed it, fired it up, and drove (without the hood!) to the gas station to fill up.
Problem 3 was the damn grin that was stuck on my face for the rest of the day.
-=Russ=-
Problem 2 was the CAS being off. Restabbed it, fired it up, and drove (without the hood!) to the gas station to fill up.
Problem 3 was the damn grin that was stuck on my face for the rest of the day.
-=Russ=-
09-01-05, 02:02 PM
#22
Originally Posted by idsigloo
My engine will come alive in about a month or two. I hope I have as few a problems as you guys. Question: Can I oil the engine like normal even though I'm pre-mixing? Will the EGI removal trick still work?
The stock oil injection pump? You can premix on top of that, though most people with working injection pumps only run 400:1 or so. Too much oil can cause trouble, or at the very least excessive gas/oil dilution.
-=Russ=-
09-01-05, 02:15 PM
#23
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mine satrted perfectly 2 weeks after everything was done............turned out I was missing the main relay..........so If you do everything right and you had a running engine to begin with you should not have any problems turning her on the first time.......
hahaha....that was dirty too...LOL
hahaha....that was dirty too...LOL
09-01-05, 02:44 PM
#24
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My first time, I really impressed myself.. it was about 6 months from when i pulled the motor to when it went in. By using the old "put every bolt where it goes, or sandwich bag" method, I didn't miss anything.. It started right up, and then died about 2 second later. Took me about about a week to figure out that it was the AFM, it must have been bumped or something during the 6 months it was out, cause it wasn't using the fuel switch. I still owe Hailers a beer or two for that
Second time I dropped the engine in, it ran perfectly. That was only out for a weekend, though
Second time I dropped the engine in, it ran perfectly. That was only out for a weekend, though
