So I have a 91 S5 N/A and after reading some post in the search, I am slowly starting to think I will start pre-mixing the car, now I know the ratio is with OMP is like .5oz:1/gal and without its like 1oz/per gal. Am I right on these numbers?

Second thing is, I was looking at the Rtek7 ECU upgrade and it requires me to not have the OMP. Does that mean I have to block it off? or will the Rtek7 Ecu just bypass any signal to it?

I just want to get a better idea of what I will be getting into if I choose to get the Rtek7 ECU.

 

RTek7 has the option of deleting the OMP. On RX7s where the OMP is electronically controlled, the ECU will see the pump unplugged and trigger a code/fault which may include a limp-home mode IIRC. The RTek7 simply allows you to disengage that fault if you wish to remove the pump and premix.

And after reading through the threads, it seems the OMP works for sedentary driving and is inefficient at high loads, whereas premixing denies the engine oil when the injectors are at a lower duty cycle, and thusly works best if you drive like a maniac.

 

I was reading on the site for Rtek7 and it says "This mod should not be used if you intend to continue operation of the electronic MOP." That is why I am thinking of just blocking off the OMP. If the Rtek7 Ecu turns the OMP off, does that mean that I still have to block it off? ur just leave it as is?

 

From all that I have read and the folks I've talked to, blocking off the omp (which probably isn't functioning on my car anyway) and pre mixing is the way to go. The easy the oil is designed it lubricates and leaves an oil residue of lubrication for when the injectors ate not firing, which is how two stroke engines work. Burns cleaner, doesn't user engine oil, minor driver inconvenience when filling up. The arguments against it, while decently valid on the point that the omp directly lubricates the apex seal, doesn't hold up for me because the two stroke oil would lubricate much more of the chamber coming from the fuel injectors, which lubricates the side wall that the apex deal travels over.
Sorry for the run on sentence, bad habit.
Hope I made sense,
Roarke

 

its fine, i got your point.

Now, as for blocking off the OMP, how hard is it to do?

 

Right, how about something useful. If your system isn't functioning I don't think blocking it off helps much, but for cleanliness it adds points. Who wants all that old junk in the bay anyway right?

 

The OMP in my car is working fine, but I wanted to Upgrade the ECU to the Rtek7 one, and that one has a warning saying that the OMP should not be used.

 

I am also thinking of getting the Rtek 2.0 for my 91 N/A... I was reading up on it as well and I think we have the option of deleting the OMP so I think it will be fine if you don't block it off...

I hope someone can clarify more on this point.

 

^ that is what I'm hoping to find out. If I can just leave it as is and not block it off, I will get it, but if I have to block it off, I will need to do more research before I jump the gun.

 

I was asked about a Block off plate when ordering mine from RisingRpm.They don't make an s5 plate.
My idea would be to take the OMP off and trace it to make your own.
I did make one awhile back but it was a hack job I did by eye and cardboard on the front cover.

 

Hurm..making my own block off plate would be a hassle seeing as I don't have anything to cut with besides a pair scissors and a knife. But, If the rtek7 just bypasses the OMP and turns it off completely, I rather just leave it there and not mess with it.

 

^ I with you on that one

 

Rtek 1.x has the MOP delete built in. This series has no user selectable setting. You get what the chart says you get.

Rtek 2.x is user configurable. You can turn the MOP function on or off. And lots of other settings.

If you disable the S5 MOP, the pump will still operate at the setting it was last set to by the electric stepper motor. If everything is working, it should be set at minimum, but this is not *off*.

Premixing along with the MOP set to minimum is NOT the same as mixing with an operational pump. It will be somewhere between the 100:1 and the 256:1. Not a lot of forum experience with this method, so you are kinda on your own if you go this route.

*If* I were doing this( and I'm NOT), I would leave the MOP on the car and premix at about 150:1. That would be around 12-13 oz per 15 gal of gas. WAG.

That would give me the option of enabling the MOP anytime I got tired of premixing. Everyone gets tired of premixing at some point.

-Jack

 

Thanks Jack! That really helps!
And as far as the premixing goes, do I add the oil after I've filled up or do I stop pumping once every couple of gals and add the oil.

 

Add the oil before you fill.

 

I pulled the Stepper motor controller chip off of the ECU main board, and left the pump in place. I have been driving it like that for about 2 months now, with no issues. Since there is no driver (no power being sent to the pump) it does nothing but act like a block plate. The only reason why I am going to go back and take the pump off is so that I dont have the oil hoses running up the engine, but this is strictly cosmetic. Keep in mind that my OMP was bad and it had blown the driver transistor pack apart, so it was best for me to remove the shorted component anyways. Good luck with whatever you decide!

 

Thanks Jack and HACK!

So this is the plan, buy the Rtek 2.0 and turn off the OMP. Start premixing, and just leave the OMP on there to act as a block off plate ( since It won't be doing anything). 13oz of oil in the gas when I fill up, and also fix dam code 11 on the car before anything else.

 

if it is not leaking, just leave it. premix doesn't lube during fuel cut like you let off the gas going down a mile(s) long canyon road.

 

Gotcha. I will just leave it alone once I get the Rtek 2.0