first one :
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

second one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

third one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

fourth one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT


ill be using a stock s5 turbo (jspec) with a ported wastegate
dont plan on boosting much more than stock (10psi tops hopefully)

i want efficient cooling for the stock turbo basically ... i dont want the top mount anymore ...

im looking to avoid HEAVY custom work such as cutting .. i know that there will be some, but most people get away with minimal cuts from what i have read so far ..
any help would be great .. thanks

rest of mods in signature

 

i would stay away from the starion... i would also get the greddy, looks to be the best made...

 

the saab ic works good i usto have a 9000 turbo and i know alot of people that had 900 turbo that put thoses ic on and it would give 2 or 3 psi more due to so much surface area and it should fit really nice in your fc with a little modification

thats my 2cents

 

the starion isn't all too bad, not the best out there, but for it's price it works well.

 

If I were you, I wouldn't bother.
You're trying to keep it under 10psi - that's good enough for the stock IC.
ANY FMIC is going to add lag - due to the extra pipes.

I mean it's nice to think you're worried about intake temps, but I find it a bit overkill for your needs.
If you're trying to get cheap, don't bother in the first place.

A proper FMIC, even with eBay cores, is still going to cost you over $500 to complete.


-Ted

 

I'm just curious, what psi would a starion IC actually be good to?

 

ok I'm probably shooting myself in the foot right now because I really wanted this ic but it looks like I've got other issues right now.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33742

as far as the starion go here

http://1300cc.com/howto/how2/frontend/phase5.htm

 

yeah the more i think about it the more i digress. ....

 

wow the 4th one looks like ****. Id get the 2nd, then V-MOUNT!!!

 

Early on in my RX-7 life I tried a Starion with stock turbo and the pressure drop was in the 5psi range....Not good! and like Ted said with the boost level you plan on running the lag will suck, and then with a pressure drop like that then you have to compensate by turning up the boost, so your intake temps really won't improve much.

12psi and under I would stay with the TMIC. I ran some great 1/4 times with one. Here is what I used way back when: large ported S5 motor, stock turbo, 850 2nds, Bosch-800hp fuel pump and reg, and then ran (are sitting down 15psi on C-116 fuel... ran a best 12.0 @ 116mph on Mickey's on that setup back in 96. Poor turbo screamed stop the whole way doen the 1320 heeeheee.

 

It'd be good to.........

Put in the trash.

 

Sorry not true at all, with my Greddy VSPL on my RX7and stock turbo and my IRC Race core (HUGE Spearco core 28x10.5x3.5) I picked up boost responce.

 

Maybe you want to tell us about your other mods like maybe a stand-alone ECU?


-Ted

 

What does an ECU have to do with the intercooler? They werent done at the same time, and the car was tuned before the intercooler, buy just bolting on the intercooler I picked up just as much responce as I did removing the AFM, both are very worthwhile.

 

duh, you just answered your own question, and you don't even know it...


-Ted

 

bam! hehe that was a good one

 

There are other things to consider besides boost. Like the crazy heat-soak I observe on my intake temp gauge every day. Just sitting at a red light can increases temps by 10-15deg, and performance after a short stop is noticably dulled by the over 50degC (120degF) temps, not forgetting the increased chance of detonation. IMO even a totally stock car would benefit from a FMIC, simply because the stock one is in the wrong place to start with.

 

Ok, Ted, you belive what you want, I have put FMIC's on over 10 RX7's and DSM's and heard nothing but the same thing, we haev been friends for a while Ted (what 6 years now?) but the condecending tone can get old.


Of course you say you can't make more than 240rw on a stock turbo, but its been done time and time again, with FMIC's, stadnalones etc and without.

 

I have no idea who you are, but when I saw "Pensacola, FL" there's a few people you could be.

Come on, you gotta be kidding me when you have no idea what I'm talking about when you're using a stand-alone EMS.
How do you increase reponse on a turbo in the mid-range with a stand-alone EMS?
You jack up the timing.
Don't tell me you didn't know that, cause if you didn't...we don't even want to go there.

I'm assuming stock ECU, which you cannot change the ignition timing.
Just slapping on an FMIC on a stock ECU FC is almost never going to increase it's reponse.
Come on, that's common sense...increase intake track length and all.
Most people know this.
Why you busting my ***** on this???

Yeah, and that 240hp to the wheels bet on a Mustang Dyno - you said you gave up on it.
So why you keep bringing it up?
Yes, I've seen the proof from Hassan on his 260hp run, but it was on a DynoJet I believe.

If this is Dan, WTF you busting my ***** in this thread for?
You telling me we're friends but you pull this **** on me?
Come on dude?
What crawled up your ***?


-Ted

 

awwwww lets take the long lost friend reunion to a different thread thanks.




the starion IC sucks. i have one...

get the greddy core if possible.

 

Only problem I have with the greddy is the seller... then again I'm ebay paranoid.

 

eek, i hear you.... and he only accepts M.O./checks

 

dont buy from anyone on ebay that only accepts M.O./checks

 

As I said before, heat soak of the TMIC produces some pretty scary intakes temps just from sitting stationary. It is logical to assume that any factory ECU (and any properly programmed aftermarket one) is going to retard ignition timing as intake temps increase to protect the engine from detonation. That's common sense too. So dropping intake temps not only increases air density but also results in more advanced ignition timing. Both of these changes will make an engine noticably more responsive. You'll always suffer some losses through longer pipework, but if you keep those losses to a minimum though well-designed pipework, the net result is positive (or at least no worse than before).