Icemark

you have to have the spring, it holds the pellet or valve in place

Roundabout

iTrader: (8)

THanks Ice! I just ran to the Hardware store and picked a spring up that looks like the original, I'm pretty sure it will work.
Justin

IWNTA20B

I don't think you can slap on just any spring in there.
If it's too stiff it won't contract. I wouldn't mess around with that part since a low oil pressure is detrimental to your engine. Why not get a solid pellet ?? Shees , it's only $15. Why would you want to take a chance on your engine like that?

marcus219

The only oil problem I have with my oil pressure (although I do not trust the sending unit)...is that when the car finally starts to warm up (on the temp guage) the oil pressure will drip to like 30 psi even at 2500...as soon as the car reaches OT its back to normal (60psi at 2500RPM). When the car is started cold its normal pressure, it only drops like that when the guage first starts to raise until its get to OT (operating temp.) Any thoughts?

Icemark

That is typical operation of the stock e-shaft thermo pellet

marcus219

So change it asap or your saying thats "typical" as in normal?

IWNTA20B

A factory thermal oil pellet will open when the engine is warm and stay closed when it is cold. You will see about 30 psi at idle when cold . That is normal. But , when it is warmed up and revved above 2500 and you still see low pressure, something's wrong. If you car has high miles and you suspect it is an original pellet, you had better change it. You are going to put a lot of wear and tear especially the rotor bearings. These are not indestructible and need to be changed. It's very easy and you should consider the solid pellet from Atkins Rotary. That's what I did when I tore my engine down.
You can change it without tearing anything down. There is a 19mm at the front of the e-shaft. Leave everything on (pulleys, main hub, belts etc) since you don't need to take anything off. Easiest is to use a impact to take it off but you can use a breaker bar. The only problem is keeping the engine from turning. This is easy. Near the clutch slave there is a aluminum plate held on by 2 10mm nuts that covers an opening. The FC flywheels have a notch on the flywheel so if you jam a small thick pipe such as a floor jack pipe in there it will hold it. Turn the motor by hand til it locks. Watch out for the clutch slave . The bolt is *NOT* reverse thread. There is thread lock liquid on the threads so it will take some strengh to take it off. Once it turns, slowly take it out and put a new one in. Watch out for the big copper washer. You don't want to smash it in the process or it will cause a huge oil leak. Use some RTV on it to keep it in place when you install it. Always torque everything down. The bolt is a 85-90 ft lbs. That's it.
All high mileage motors should change the pellet.