For those of you rebuilding or have fluctuating oil pressure, I advise changing the thermal pellet to a solid one instead of the factory wax type. Before the rebuild, I would see fluctuating oil pressure between 50 -60 at about 3000 rpm even with the FD oil pressure regulator. I changed to the solid thermal pellet and now it's a steady 95-100psi beyong 3000 rpm. It's a good investment . You don't want it to go bad at any time .

 

The same thing can be done with 5 (or more) M7 washer shimming the stock oil thermowax pellet.



-Ted

 

http://home.rmci.net/panther/ Oil Thermo Bypass Pellet Shim Procedure

 

Crap, I was wondering why I was still getting mail off the Freeservers site, and now I know why.




-Ted

 

Got one of those from atkins. Quality stuff. I'm afraid to do it in fear of the bearing sleeve falling back into the engine.

 

Bearing sleeve?? You mean the thrust bearings?? If you do not disturb or knock the front pulley hub loose, there is no danger of that, once you break the factory loctite on the bolt, it comes out pretty much by hand, I also found that by using a piece of 3/8 steel tube instead of multiple shims, you can cut the pellet spacer to exactly the right length..Mine had failed on my car, I did the heat and measure test, and it was only opening 3mm.. Made a good difference in oil pressure..Max

 

qewrqwer

 

Can you tell me what the stack up height(inches) should be for the M7 washers. I am worried about thickness variation from the washer manufacturer.

 

I got mazdatrixs pellet. But my pressure never goes below 40 psi now, not even at idle. I wonder if this could have any long term effects?

 

Factory Mazda spec out of the manual states minimum 6mm thickness.

-Ted

 

Exactly what I was looking for, Thanks

 

Oil pressure seems a little high. I thought you were not supposed to use a FD OPR on a 13BT....

 

Just out of curiosity and for the knowledge, what would happen if you ran the motor with out the thermal pellet?

 

You're basically bypassing oil from the rotors, rotor bearings, and stationary gear bearings.&nbsp In short, you'll end up "burning" the rotors so spinning a bearing(s)...


-Ted

 

Racing beat does sell a higher pressure reg. to bypass at about 85 psi. A stock is abround 60-75?
By the way, 100 psi is a typo. Sorry. I usually see about 90 psi.
I've installed the FD OPR since the first rebuild (3 years ago) and hasn't shown any signs out of the oridinary from the recent rebuild (overheated).
The only thing is if you have a small oil leak, the higher pressure will make it worse.

 

In my experience (1 first gen and 2 sec. gen) ALL engines have that little oil leak at the front drivers side.

I think it`s a factory standard suspension oiler feature.


....just joking.. of course.

John 88 vert.

 

What would you guys say about doing this to the oil cooler to? so it flows all the time? What it be wise to do in WV?

 

Ted, i may have to shim the pellet one of these days...about how long is the labor on the job??

 

I am thinking about do this but am also worried about the piece falling into the engine.

 

What about doing this to the oil cooler? good or bad? how about durring the winter?

 

bad.

You want your oil to be at operating temp as soon as possible.

Get a temp relay and wire it to a light or buzzer if the oil temp goes to high, or get an oil temp gauge and monitor it. This way you can tell if that thermal pellet is stuck closed.

 

www.atkinsrotary.com

they have a 1 peice pellet for $15

I dont know how much the others cost. I thought I'd just let you guys know.

 

Can you buy those things new for the oil cooler anywhere? Or is it a delership thing only?

 

On a bone stock car, it takes more timing removing everything (i.e. fan shroud, fan, etc.) than actually shimming the pellet itself.&nbsp I'd give it one hour to pull everything off...another hour to remove the bolt/shim/replace...and another half an hour to put everything back.&nbsp Call it 3 hours on the safe side?


-Ted

 

I'm doing the bypass for a buddy of mine and he somehow lost the spring (outer). How important is it that the spring is reinstalled when the M7 washers are in place?
Thanks in advance!