JoelChicago

Thanks to everyone for your info here. I've been lurking here for a little while (used to be on first gen forum with my 23K mile '79). I figured I could trust the information when I saw MMO and Chevron with Techron FI cleaner come up with recommendations.

I had the 3800 hesitation and bog over 3800 quite badly. As of today, it is no more!! There is a ground cable on the 88 vert that goes from the back of the motor to the firewall. It's thin, and it was completely corroded. I replaced it with an 8 gauge wire from the firewall bolt to the block, near the fuel injectors (there's a 10mm bolt that holds a cable just below the injectors). I also ran a short cable from the battery to one of the bolts for the hood prop. Runs great now. So, thanks to everyone here for sharing the ground info!!

Also, I tried the carb cleaner into the vac line trick - I only used a few ounces, but even that made my engine a lot happier. Thanks again. I intend to put a quart of MMO in the oil today, as I've had really good luck with MMO in the past on piston engines. I'll replace the fuel filter and add Chevron and I should be in really good shape. I'm very pleased with the progress on the car with little expense!

Question though - at cold startup, I get a poof of white smoke. I had this on my '79, and now with this '88. Exact same thing. Neither car has/had any running problems, and there is never any coolant missing, so I'm guessing it's something else? Do you have this or have an idea what's going on? Warm startups are smoother than cold starts too.

Also, my clock is bright, then dim, then out, then bright again. Is this a loose/corroded connection? Easy to fix?

After I replace my oil cooler lines and fix my sloppy shifter, I'll be 100% ready for this summer with my top dropped!

Thanks!
Joel

'01 CRV SE (9K)
'88 RX7 vert (101K)
buying '76 280ZX (99K)
www.krooswyk.com

Vroomaster

the clock thing: In mine, there is a short somewhere having to do with the heat/ac vent button, I think if you turn on heat and press the floor only, then the one to the right of it, my clock will go off! hehe, have fun!

Icemark

The clock problems indicate that you have cold solder joints on the connector on the back of the idiot/warning light assembly.

As too the smoke, check compression.

Cwaters

I fixed my clock acouple months back and it's prety easy. There's a little circut board behind the idiot lights that just needs to have the solder re-heated and reset. Only caviot there is the VERY (very) brittle plastic that makes up the clock surround. It pulls right out but it you are not carefull, it'll be in pieces.

Cory Waters