NCross

iTrader: (18)

As for the power steering, you may want to swap in a new computer. It's located under the steering wheel behind the speaker grill.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

The airpump is hooked up, the whole car is bone stock. Thats all i know about it, is there a way to test it?

I did adjust the TPS but i adjusted it "right". I am going to go through the whole thing again to tomorrow.

Idle screw doesn't even seem to do much now.

Basically if anyone has a complete guild to getting your car running right i would love a link, or at least the things to check and how to check them (i have a hyanes manual, but not everything is in there).

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

It just so happens that the 86 has all the inside parts still, so i assume it would still have that (it also had PS). I will try finding that and replacing it, hopfully that is the problem.

wvumtnbkr

My bet on the power steering is that it needs bled! Sit in place with the engine running and move the wheel lock to lock (left to right). This should bleed any air out of the system.

As far as getting the car to run "right", do what has already been stated!

Set your timing per the "stabbing the CAS" method. This will get you close. Set the TPS per the resistance method. Move the "variable resistor" to the middle of the range.

Finally, GET SOME SECONDARY INJECTORS!!!! If you try to rev the engine past 3800 rpm you could get into a very lean condition and ruin the motor!

Get all of these things done, and then let us know what problems you still have.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Yeah i plan on doing all of that today and see what happens.

Though whats the "stab th CAS" method? i have not been able to find ANYTHING about setting the CAS.

And don't worry, i am not reving it higher then 3000 RPM and then only to "clear" everything before trying the idle again.

Heres hoping, as soon as i get off work i will see what i can do...

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, so i wnet out again to day to do some more work and i am so offically stumped and lost.

So let me start from a few days ago, i got it running for the first time, it would then start up first time, every time. No problem other than the high idle. Ran perfect.

So yesterday i drive it, then all of the sudden it doesn't want to start or idle or do much of anything.

So today i go out to start it and get the same, nothing. Won't start even. So i pull the plugs after an hour. they are a little dirty but i had oil in there a few days ago so i am not real surprised. So i do a poor mans compression test. I hear 3 distink and good soundsing whomps.

So i put it back to gether and try again for 30 mins. Then pull the plugs again, same as before. So i dig around and find my compression tester and use it as i have read with the check valve disabled. And i get a whopping 10 - 20 PSI jumps. all 3 are about the same and barely register. The spark plug adapter i used didn't screw all the way in but still. So i reconneced the check vavle and it tops out at ~20 psi. Same exactly on both rotors.

Now is it even possible for an engine with that low of compression to even start at all? As i said, it would start and run perfect a few days ago.and yesterday on my drive arounf the block, even without secandaries it had LOTS of power, until 3500 rpm anyways.

now it won't start at all and has basically zero compression? Did i kill my engine some how? I am running heavy premix, about 2oz a gallon so that should not be a problem.

I am lost!! and after getting my hopes up that i was going to finally have an RX7.... :-(

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, i finally got it started again, i unpluged the fule pump (still have the trunk taken apart) and then tried cranking it, after a little bit it sudden started to catch and started for just a second. So i plugged it back in and after a little work got it started, so it must have been flooded big time.

but i am not back to it not wanting to idle.

Here are some video i took that may help:

This is when i was trying to start it, did this today and yesterday

http://www.pballandmore.com/video/100_1753.MOV

And this one is of the idle now:

http://www.pballandmore.com/video/100_1754.MOV

Above 3000 rpm it seems to run perfect. but does this under it.

Also, if i turn it off and restart it, it will start right up like it is supposed to, go to 3000 and idle perfect, slowly start dropping then all of the sudden it will start running like that again.

EDIT: Adjusted the TPS above what it is supposed to be to make up for the 1500 idle and it now doesn't jump around. Still idles at 1500 though. but at least seems to be working ok. though when i drive it and stop it will idle at ~1000 which is rougher. Does that sound normal? other than the bounceing idle?

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, i know i am posting a lot.
I have pretty much got it working now, at elast i think so, EXCEPT that when it is cold it really doesn't want to start. Even when it cools down, i let it sit for a few hours and tried to restart it and had to floor the gas and crank for a good 20 seconds before it almost caught, then let it sit for a second and tried again and started it after anout 10 seconds.

Any idea what that is about?

It runs real nice above 1500 rpm, lots of power and pretty smooth (will worry about the little bit that is off later).

Just won't idle right or start when cold.

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

Are your vacuum lines all right? You could have a vacuum leak at an intake manifold too.
Unplug the TPS, does it still do it?
Plug in your secondary injectors and drive it.
Is it low on power?
If it is check your timing. use a 19mm socket on the front bolt inside the lower pullies. Turn the pulley until the yellow notch on it lines up with the stud on the front cover. Pull the black cover off your CAS, it should look like the picture in this thread. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=timing If it doesnt, loosen the nut and turn it until it does. You may have to take it out and re-stab it to get it to line up perfect. If your yellow notch is lined up with the stud and the CAS looks like the picture, your timing is set fine.

Sounds to me like you have a big vac leak somewhere. thats why its running alright under load, but idling like crap.

Try closing the screw on top of the TB(You probably did already, but I'm ignorant and didnt read the whoel thread).

Good luck, hope some of that helped!

Oh yeah, your plugs and wires arent mixed up are they?

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Thanks. I also thought it was a vacume leak but have tried the carb cleaner all over the intake a few times. nothing.

Have not actually tried unplugging the TPS to see what happens, didn't think it would run at all, will try that though.

The reason i don't have secondary injectors is because i was sent the wrong ones by mistake and i am waiting for the correct injectors to show up. The ones i have won't plug into the harness. the new ones should be here any day though.

It actually has LOTS of power, even with having to stay below 3800 RPM's. Thats what has me so stumped.

I will look at the timing and see what it looks like.

Already have the Idle screw closed though opening or closing it doesn't change the idle much.

Plugs and wires are all right but i have new ones to put in there, i have just been waiting due tot he fact that the plugs keep getting dirt real quick and i want to fix that before i replace them.

Right now, other then the power steering and the hgh idle it runs fine.

The biggest problem is it not wanting to start cold anymore, i have no idea what changed that.

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

Are you sure your plugs and wires are right?

Try unplugging the BAC valve as well.

The way its running still makes me think its a vacuum leak.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Well the wires are all the same way i got it, and the way they are roughted it is pretty hard to mix them up.

I did try unplugging th BAC and nothing happened. donen't change a thing, but if i put power to it i hear a click. I tried another ECU as well (an extra one was in the car) and exactly the same.

I also think it might be a vacume leak but can't for the life of me figure out where it would be.

The BAC seems like the best spot to look but it clicks and the Ohms were right. Just doesn't change anything when you unplug it.

EDIT: THANK YOU for that, you gave me an idea. So i went out and dissconnected the BAC vacume line from the intake, then plugged it. And guess what? it then acted exactly like it did yesterday, not wanting to start/idle or run at all! i reconnected the line and it idles at 1500 fine again.

So i am now almost positive that it is the BAC, but would that be causing all of my problems? The high idle i can see, but the rough running? and the hard starting when cold (the biggest problem i have and need to fix). Now to find a new BAC.

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

That still doesn't answer if the spark plug wires are right or not. Are the spark plugs right as well? There shoudl be a trailing plug in the top hole on each rotor houding and a leading plug in the lower hoels on each housing. and if you look at the coil packs, the wire terminals are labeled L1, L2 and T1, T2. The 1's go to the front rotor housing and the 2's to the back.(Sorry if you know this already, like I said, I didn't read the entire thread.

Unplug the TPS and start it.

It still seems like a vacuum leak, when you put the new secondary injectors in make sure you use new manifold gaskets. Also if you took aprt the throttle body, it likes to leak around where the four nuts go if you don't have them tight.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Read the edit to the post above, it explains some, i did just check the wires and they are right.

The BAC does appear to be the problem. Though would it be causing the REAL hard starting when cold?

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

I don't think so. You're probably getting way to much air at startup, or too much fuel from leaky injectors.

Did you unplug the TPS while it was running yet?

If you don't have the factory service manual I reccomend you get one and go over the vacuum diagrams. It's pretty easy to get them mixed up when you're new to the car and replacing them.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

I did just try starting it without the TPS and it started like normal when it is hot, a few seconds of cranking but it catches.

Though after a few seconds it drops down to 1000RPM and appears to be running pig rich. REAL rough. i pluged it back in and it jumps to 1500 right away and gets a smooth idle.

For the life of me i can't figure out why a few days ago, cold, warn or hot it would start first time everytime. now it won't start cold and takes a second hot. What could have changed just by drvinf it? i had let it idle for almost an hour the other day, much longer then i drove it (which was all of 5 mins).

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

You got me. Lol. I've never had that much trouble with a 7 before.
Good luck man, and if you can try a better BAC valve go for it.

Are you sure those wrong secondary injectors you got aren't leaky?

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

LOL, well actualy problems other than getting it started he first time have mainly been the idle.

Until i took it for a drive and all of the sudden it didn't want to start cold anymore.

Now thats the biggest problem, i could live with the high idle if i had to.

And i don't know if the sec. are leaking or not, i don't think so since when hot it starts pretty easy and doesn't act flooded. but it is possible that they or even the pri or leaking some.

Then the Power steering, which seems to work great when i turn hard right and moving some. Otherwise you would not know it is there.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Order the rebuild kits from Mazda - you're looking at about $30 and the seals will be brand new. They are so incredibly easy to do yourself.

Loosen (don't remove) the bolts or nuts that hold the latch receivers into the car, then push them up and retighten, there should be some adjustment. If there's not, pull the headliner down in the back and loosen the nuts at the top that hold the glass in. Once you get everything to latch again, loosen (again, don't remove) everything from inside the car (while the hatch is closed), and tighten it all back down - with everything latched and loose it should settle where it wants to be, then tighten everything in place.

I picked up a whole new carpet set for right around $200. Try stockinteriors.com. Rx7 molded carpet is on sale now for $175. The black circle push in things are available from your local autoparts stores (autozone, oreilly) and common sizes are in the hardware section at Home Depot or Lowes. If you pull them carefully with a dull old wire stripper (nice and flat, has a convenient hole for grabbing onto the center bit) then you can usually reuse them.

Where are you in Texas?

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Thanks, 2 out of 3 of those were fixed by me getting an 86 for $250. It has all the interior carpets and such as well as a good MS which i already changed out. Then i just got a new Slave from mazda.

I have not got to the hatch though, that sounds like a good idea, i will try that!

Right now my problems are , in this order:

Won't start cold

Idles high

No power steering except hard right turn.

No AC

The other car fixed/will fix most of the other problems.

Thanks everyone!

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Won't start cold I'd almost have to hear it, because there are so many things it could be, from low battery voltage to air leaks.

Idles high - points to an air leak again, or mistuned throttlebody/air bypass

No power steering - I know it's obvious, but did you check the fluid? Other than that, make sure the belt is on it and that the pulley spins, and try bleeding the system out. Since this was a shop car, they probably just topped off the fluid and didn't bleed it since they sold it for $500. You bleed it by idling the car and just turning it all the way left and all the way right, full lock to full lock, and then topping off the fluid again. If that doesn't fix it, it's probably new pump time.

AC's not hard to fix either. Does the compressor run at all? If so, and just no cold air comes out, it's probably the same thing that happened to me - the silica pack in the dryer blew up and clogged the expansion tube. You just blow it out and scrape it out with a coat hanger and an air gun, buy a new dryer (~$80) and some R134a (~$25 for two cans) and fill'er up. Or you can pay a shop $600-$1000 to do the same thing and get maybe 2 degrees colder air.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Thanks for that, i do know that the BAC is not working correctly from testing it. Doesn't seem like that would cause hard starting though? idle sure.

And yes, the power steering is full, and i bled it yesterday. It now seems to give just a teeny tinny bit all the time but hard right is still where it actually kicks in like it should. Someone said that the computer could be the problem.

Going to go out and try starting it cold in a little bit, i am going to plug the BAC and see if it helps any. I will also record it so ya'll can see/hear it.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Depends on how it's stuck - the BAC allows air to bypass the throttle plates, so if it's stuck open or part open (when the computer thinks it's closed), then you're getting too much air for the amount of fuel you have (which can make it hard to start)

I guess that makes sense, I haven't ever paid attention to what part the PS computer plays. Something to do with less assist at high speeds maybe? If it can be a computer though, it's also likely to be a plug wire, so I'd disconnect all the wired connections and clean them real well before working with a solid state computer.
Seems like 80% of all the problems I've had with my 87 were wiring.

Well, plus the blown engine

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

I'd pull the BAC off and soak it with PB Blaster or WD40 to clean it and break up any deposits. Also check its wiring to make sure it isnt grounding out somewhere.

Also, go through all the vacuum hoses, especially the ones around the TB, and make sure that they are all correct based on the FSM. Its possible that you could have bridged the TB with a vacuum line accidentally (connected to both before and afterwards), which would act like a vacuum leak but not actually connect to outside air except thru the air filter. Double-check the air bleeds and actual vacuum signals are on the correct nipples. Your problem really does sound like excess air, either thru a vac leak or around the throttle body.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

The BAC appears to be stuck open, as this would explain the bad idle. am going to plug it manually and see what it does.

And wiring does appear to be the biggest problem. i will see how it starts with the BAC pluged up in a min.

I will soak the BAC later today, that sounds like a good idea.

Where in the FSM is the Vacume line roughting? i am just using that online PDF version.